Multi Both batteries DEAD with Isolator Installed ????

[Pilot2016]

Finally finished the electrical build of my 2018 P700-4. (Pics below)
Amazingly, everything worked perfectly.
2nd battery, Isolator, 80amp CB, stinger, key-on 12 position fuse distribution panel, 6 fuse distribution panel for key off accessories, multiple USBs, multiple cigarette lighter sockets, roof LEDS, green deer LED lights, LED dome lights, and Complete AUTO backup LEDS.

Last night I left the key on.
Today BOTH BATTERIES ARE DEAD.
Anyone know how that is possible???????
I thought the Isolater was supposed to make the starting battery IDIOT PROOF???

 

[Admin]

 

[Alan_Vander]

Well with the key being on id guess some of the actuating wires for the secondary battery are coming from the starter battery instead of the second battery. Which could cause both batteries to run down. Orrr was your lights on?

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[Pilot2016]

NOTHING comes from #1 starter battery except a POS to Isolator and a NEG to the Neg on BATT 2.

Lights were off.????
Thx for reply

 

[Alan_Vander]

Was wondering cause you said key on 12 position fuse panel. Thats all from the starter battery

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[Pilot2016]

The source for the KEY-ON power comes from the ACC circuit behind the cigarette lighter to the STINGER via the harness from HondaSXS that test perfectly.
Key on12v
Key-off .....Zero

 

[Alan_Vander]

So you were 12v to your stinger all night cig/actuating/relay wire 1st batttery

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[Pilot2016]

The Stinger controls the 12 position fuse block where the attachments are hooked up.

Even the non keyed 6position fuse block is AFTER the Isolator. The stinger does not affect the key off accessories. The key off fuse block is controlled by an ON-OFF switch By the lower switch panel so I can charge my iPhone without a key.

Thx again

 

[Pilot2016]

I’m probably not explaining it correctly.

RED (pos)- goes from Bat1 (starter) to Isolator to Second battery (pos) to Breaker to STINGER to 12 position fuse block for keyed accessories.

BEFORE THE STINGER, the RED (pos) is SPLIT OFF to the 6 position (non keyed) fuse block

BLACK goes from Bat1 (starter) to Second battery directly.

BOTH Grounds (neg) from both 6 and 12 position fuse blocks lead to second battery ground.

The STINGER is wired from the RED 12v cigarette lighter through the harness and grounded to 2nd battery.

Thx

 

[Ultrasonic1]

Is your ground block grounded to the negative on one of your batteries? Or to the frame?

 

[Alan_Vander]

No i got that. its hard to diagnose with out kinda going through. but your 12 panel is powered by the 2nd battery but started/relayed by the cig lighter? Im kinda thinking you starter battery was starting to go because it doesnt take much juice to run the relay for the 12 panel and dash cluster but then again. I dont know how much amps is required for that. As for your second battery thats a give me only if any of your keyed accessories were on coming from that 12 volt panel it would of drained your 2nd battery but only thing i could think of first battery would be the relay to the stinger which pulls less amps than the cluster.

unless your running a large 50amp+ relay between the 2nd battery and the stinger. then i could see it draining both. With the key on

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[Alan_Vander]

brain fart. Forgot the stinger is a large relay. But actually goes right along with my last post. Keyed on the stinger turns on drains first battery. Second battery lights all key on accessory draining second battery. Id run a battery check on the starter battery once its charge back up.

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[Pilot2016]

brain fart. Forgot the stinger is a large relay. But actually goes right along with my last post. Keyed on the stinger turns on drains first battery. Second battery lights all key on accessory draining second battery. Id run a battery check on the starter battery once its charge back up.

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Thx again
I probably just don’t understand the ISOLATOR.
I thought it disconnected the 2nd battery from the starter battery.

I thought it would open up the gate between the 2 batteries if the second battery was low to charge it ONLY WHEN MOTOR RUNNING and ALTERNATOR was running so as to charge back up the second battery.

I thought it’s primary purpose was to protect AT ALL COST... your starting battery even if you left ALL your accessories ON that were wired to 2nd battery.

I GUES NOT ... duh!!!!!🤪🤪🤪

 

[Alan_Vander]

Yeah the isolator does that but iv never seen anyone key on the 2nd battery theyv always just switched it around me anyway. Pretty sure a few on here has as well. Something about having the batteries cross over for things to power on kinda hard to trace back the actual problem. Thats why i got away from the small batteries and went with full size marine instead.

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[Dirtstiffs-1000]

You hit it. Keyed on second battery allowed power drain.

 

[Pilot2016]

You hit it. Keyed on second battery allowed power drain.

The stinger is after the second battery. The power to activate the stinger comes from the main battery.

How else could you wire the stinger??? It uses Main ACC power from the OEM CIGARETTE LIGHTER. It simply opens power as a gate to the accessories???

 

[BBLASER]

I put stinger after my second battery but before my 8 position fuseblock. It is powered by the either the main battery (key on) or my secondary battery(key off or on), depending on which position I have my dash switch on. Or I can have my dash switch in the off position and my 2nd battery fuse panel will have no power. I did my build very similar to member OnTheJob's. This is a wiring diagram he has posted in one of his threads.

 

[Alan_Vander]

The stinger is after the second battery. The power to activate the stinger comes from the main battery.

How else could you wire the stinger??? It uses Main ACC power from the OEM CIGARETTE LIGHTER. It simply opens power as a gate to the accessories???

Only way to truly separate the batteries is to take it off the cig lighter and have it key on Instead with a switch or through a manual switch that way you have true isolator.

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[Pilot2016]

Is your ground block grounded to the negative on one of your batteries? Or to the frame?
[/
All grounds go Back to 2nd battery post in the hood which is then connected to OEM starter battery and ground.
Thx

 

[Pilot2016]

I put stinger after my second battery but before my 8 position fuseblock. It is powered by the either the main battery (key on) or my secondary battery(key off or on), depending on which position I have my dash switch on. Or I can have my dash switch in the off position and my 2nd battery fuse panel will have no power. I did my build very similar to member OnTheJob's. This is a wiring diagram he has posted in one of his threads.

View attachment 193848

Thx
Sorry I could not read this.
HERE IS A SIMPLE SCHEMATIC OF MINE
Still can’t figure out why the Isolator opens the gate back to main battery to allow it to drain BOTH BATTERIES with key on from stinger relay that opens gate (pos) to the 12 position key-on fuse block that has most of the accessories.

Maybe this helps???
THX

 

[TripleB]

Thx
Sorry I could not read this.
HERE IS A SIMPLE SCHEMATIC OF MINE
Still can’t figure out why the Isolator opens the gate back to main battery to allow it to drain BOTH BATTERIES with key on from stinger relay that opens gate (pos) to the 12 position key-on fuse block that has most of the accessories.

Maybe this helps???
THXView attachment 193934

I'm no expert and probably misunderstanding what you're saying. If your key is on, anything factory will draw power and drain the main battery. Hour meter will be running, etc.