Breakdown of the NEW 2022 Accessory Fuse Box kit. 0SS25-HL4-A00

NewHere2

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IMG 0701


If you take any of these connectors, jumper them as shown, then the PC board inside the fuse box will activate and send power to the corresponding SW terminal on the fuse block.

Then you should be able to show power at the terminal on the fuse box. PROVIDED THE BIG CONTROL WIRE IS PLUGGED IN !

If it doesn’t :
1.) You either have a blown fuse in that circuit.

2.) Your trigger wire to the lower corner of the fuse box isn’t making contact.

3.) The power source for the fuse box trigger wire is bad or has a blown fuse.

4.) A faulty fuse box possibly caused by improper installation by dealership.
 
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NewHere2

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LEAVE THE CONTROL WIRE PLUGGED IN. It’s required for this to work. I’m sorry, for what to work?

The big connector ( control wire/A1 ) controls the PC board within the fuse box.

Most likely you will have to change the factory Honda female connectors to what ever type of connector will work with the switches you decide to use.
 
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NewHere2

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I installed all these switches and converted the factory 1000Deluxe to illuminated switches using the fuse box you have.

IMG 0501


Should look like this when you are done.

IMG 0499

That includes a dual battery installation.
 
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Hondasxs

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@Pirate88 View attachment 407355

I installed all these switches and converted the factory 1000Deluxe to illuminated switches using the fuse box you have.

View attachment 407354

Should look like this when you are done.

View attachment 407356
That includes a dual battery installation.
I have considered making a kit to illuminate them. Would use the USB wires as the source.

Not sure about the wiper. Currently, as I haven't seen one... but, I have done it on the older models. Should be the same once I had a sample.

Just not sure there is a market for this with the ROI I would need. It's a bit of work to do.
Would be paying for convince mostly.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
 
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Pirate88

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Thank you sir!
I found the Bus Bar, tucked way up under the cowl(?). So I will be removing the piece so I can trace out the connected wires.

OK, used a copper wire to jump the two wires in the white SW3 switch block. Key ON. Indeed I have power at the SW3 port on the Fuse block.
Did the same for The gray SW4 switch block. Key ON. Indeed there is power at the SW4 port on the Fuse block.
Did the same for the SW1 switch block. Key ON. Indeed there is power at the SW1 port on the Fuse block.
Did the same for the SW2 switch block. Key ON. Unfortunately, no power at the SW2 port on the Fuse block. Fuses are all good.
Jumper was checked for continuity. Guess more testing.

OK. So I can use the SW1,2,3,4 ports on the Fuse block for accessories that have a rocker switch in the switch plate on the dash.

Guess I need to figure out how to move the wires in the switch blocks to match the rocker switch.

For accessories I want to be "switched" and use no rocker switch, I can use the AUX ports on the Fuse Block.

Sound right?
Pirate
 
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Pirate88

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OK, today's project is going to be installing the Seizmik Halo side mirrors. The one's with the LED white and green lights.
They come with a wiring harness and rocker switch.
for the switch housing with two white and the one with two grey wires. I just need to determine which is ground and which is hot.
I can then cut the switch housing off and splice the wires to the Seizmik switch. Then the LED's are Key ON controlled.

Second project for the day is to take the cowling off to expose the Bus Bar and figure out what is wired there. This will be the source for a fuse block for accessories I want HOT all the time. Like the power to my Tablet and power to my Digipower battery for my GoPro.

And then write all this up! Thanks so much to all for your help! NewHere2, this was a great piece of information:
The big connector ( control wire/A1 ) controls the PC board within the fuse box. I'm not an electronics guy. Thus I would never have thought of this.

NewHere2, where do you get those cool rocker switches?
Thanks,
Pirate
 
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NewHere2

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OK, today's project is going to be installing the Seizmik Halo side mirrors. The one's with the LED white and green lights.
They come with a wiring harness and rocker switch.
for the switch housing with two white and the one with two grey wires. I just need to determine which is ground and which is hot.
I can then cut the switch housing off and splice the wires to the Seizmik switch. Then the LED's are Key ON controlled.

Second project for the day is to take the cowling off to expose the Bus Bar and figure out what is wired there. This will be the source for a fuse block for accessories I want HOT all the time. Like the power to my Tablet and power to my Digipower battery for my GoPro.

And then write all this up! Thanks so much to all for your help! NewHere2, this was a great piece of information:
The big connector ( control wire/A1 ) controls the PC board within the fuse box. I'm not an electronics guy. Thus I would never have thought of this.

NewHere2, where do you get those cool rocker switches?
Thanks,
Pirate
Club store has a great selection of switches. Some require the adapter.
 
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Hondasxs

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Talking with another guy today about this box.
I realized you could make some additional AUX ports by just cutting off the SW# switch housing and wiring both of the SW# housing wires together.
Or make a perminate spade connector jumper and tape it up.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
 
Pirate88

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I came to that conclusion about the same time you did. All that is necessary it to make a continuous wire of the two going into the switch block.
My question is, does completing the circuit complete the ground for that port?
Pirate
 
Pirate88

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Thinking and working on the Street Legal install.
One could probably cut the trigger wire, connect it to the Bus Bar and the all the Fuse Block ports would be Hot all the time.
Then, I wonder if one could not figure out how to make the CONTROL cable just very short jumpers. Thus getting rid of the the
large cable?
More to learn!!
Pirate
 
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Wisco-Tango

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@Pirate88 The Honda OEM fuse panel handles the ground connection on each of the fuse block outputs whether SW or AUX. The SW connections on the main harness are really only handling the power side of the circuit. Those SW connections lack a ground wire, so they don't actually support the lighted rocker switches. That is the reason that @Hondasxs mentioned making a harness to add that capability to those switch connection plugs, but to his point that probably isn't worth it for the amount of work or effort on his part.
 
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Pirate88

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Thanks Wisco-Tango,
This makes sense. The dealer installed the S&B Particle Separator and used the AUX3 port. It has a backlighted switch. Thus and AUX port will work and a SW port would not support the backlight.
I'm in the process of installing a WD Electronics street legal kit. The Horn switch does not have a backlight. Thus using on of the SW ports would be the way to go. Saving the AUX ports for those accessories having backlight switches.

Might you be able to answer what the to wires in the CONTROL cable switch blocks are for? Do they complete the ground circuit?
Thanks very much!
Pirate
 
Wisco-Tango

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Thanks Wisco-Tango,
This makes sense. The dealer installed the S&B Particle Separator and used the AUX3 port. It has a backlighted switch. Thus and AUX port will work and a SW port would not support the backlight.
I'm in the process of installing a WD Electronics street legal kit. The Horn switch does not have a backlight. Thus using on of the SW ports would be the way to go. Saving the AUX ports for those accessories having backlight switches.

Might you be able to answer what the to wires in the CONTROL cable switch blocks are for? Do they complete the ground circuit?
Thanks very much!
Pirate
Those two wires in each of the SW female plugs from the main control harness are handling the positive (+) side of the circuit. They would go to pins 2 and 3 in this example of a typical 5 pin switch like what are sold in the Club Store. If only the two pins are connected the light in the switch won't light.
1698538466784


If you want the light to work when you turn the key on, you'd need the jumper wire from pin 2 to pin 6 and you'd need to add a ground wire to pin 4 and the jumper to pin 1, as none of those extra wires are part of the switch block.
 
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Pirate88

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But the female SW housings only have two wires in them. That doesn't match up with your diagram and writing?
Working to get my WD Electronics street legal kit complete. I did have to move the power from and AUX to a SW port.
Put a jumper between the two wires in the switch housing on the CONTROL harness and voila, everything works.

WD wants one to use a wiring connector that winds up somewhere behind the Bus Bar and I could not find it. So I used and SW port and jump and things work!
Pirate
 
Wisco-Tango

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But the female SW housings only have two wires in them. That doesn't match up with your diagram and writing?
Working to get my WD Electronics street legal kit complete. I did have to move the power from and AUX to a SW port.
Put a jumper between the two wires in the switch housing on the CONTROL harness and voila, everything works.

WD wants one to use a wiring connector that winds up somewhere behind the Bus Bar and I could not find it. So I used and SW port and jump and things work!
Pirate
Sure it does. Like I said the SW housing connects to pins 2 and 3. Ignore the rest, as there are no connections in the SW housing to go to those pins. Whe you activate the switch connected to the SW housing it makes the corresponding output from the panel hot. You essentially did just that by jumping the two pins in the SW housing. It now acts like an AUX connection as it is hot now. Your WD kit is the switch in this scenario.
 
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bob3663

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Is this the GT fuse box for the 3 aux switches in the new pioneers? I just got my 2023 P3 and bought the harness out of the shop here and can’t figure out how to plug it in?

Thank you.
 
Hondasxs

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Is this the GT fuse box for the 3 aux switches in the new pioneers? I just got my 2023 P3 and bought the harness out of the shop here and can’t figure out how to plug it in?

Thank you.
Yes. It would plug into info the aux ports.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
 
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bob3663

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So where would be a good place to hook into if I cut them off per instructions? Didn’t realize I needed this for the gr connection. I thought it was standard after 2022 as per the name.
 
Pirate88

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Wisco-Tango,
I think I get it. So, an accessory that comes with a backlighted switch with the wiring you're showing in the diagram. Doesn't matter, so long as the switch has two pins that match those in the CONTROL cable SW housing...the port will be hot and the accessory will work as there is a hot wire and a ground wire available at the matching SW port on the Fuse Block.
Am I making sense?
Pirate
 
Pirate88

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So where would be a good place to hook into if I cut them off per instructions? Didn’t realize I needed this for the gr connection. I thought it was standard after 2022 as per the name.
First off, does your Pioneer have these:
"Pioneer 1000 models require: Honda Accessory Fuse Box Wiring Kit and Fuse Box & Audio Mount Bracket."
You'll need the Control Cable and the two above to utilize the cable you purchased at the dealer.
Looking at the Honda Accessory pages, your Fuse Block should be the same as the Talon Fuse Block. Does it look like this:
1698600542554

The Fuse Block comes with the SW1/2 connector used to power two accessories. Honda or otherwise.
Does the cable you purchased look like this:
1698600948851

Note that the labels on the cables leading to the female switch housings match the labeling on the Fuse Block.
(The labeling on the Fuse Block are embossed on the block.)

Each of these could be used with an accessory switch located on the dash switch plate. The dash of my 2023 Talon looks like this:
1698601296656

There are pop out covers for five switches. One for each of the output ports on the Fuse Block.

For more than two you will need to purchase one, or more of these ACCESSORY WIRING CONNECTORS X2
parts from the Honda dealer. You can use them on either a SW or AUX port.
1698599115969


One thing to remember...all the ports on the Fuse Block are "switched". Meaning none of them are hot when the Ignition Key is "OFF".

As a start. Is this helpful?
Pirate
 
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