Hondasxs
Club Founder
Staff member
Or, just move the trigger line to a constant switch.One thing to remember...all the ports on the Fuse Block are "switched". Meaning none of them are hot when the Ignition Key is "OFF".
Or, just move the trigger line to a constant switch.One thing to remember...all the ports on the Fuse Block are "switched". Meaning none of them are hot when the Ignition Key is "OFF".
The GT connector is for the factory fuse box talked about in this post.View attachment 408059View attachment 408059
This is the wire kit I got from here. I did not buy the oem kit.
The instructions say I can cut the GT part off and wire in another way. Asking where the best place is to do so? I thought the GT plug was factory on my pioneer when I got it. No issue with cutting and adding in elsewhere, just wondering where the best place is.
Thank you for the amazing post explaining it all.
The wiring diagram I shared is for a switch that has a back light when the key is powered on. You'd wire the hot jumper from pin 3 to pin 6 if you want it to light when the switch is activated.Wisco-Tango,
I think I get it. So, an accessory that comes with a backlighted switch with the wiring you're showing in the diagram. Doesn't matter, so long as the switch has two pins that match those in the CONTROL cable SW housing...the port will be hot and the accessory will work as there is a hot wire and a ground wire available at the matching SW port on the Fuse Block.
Am I making sense?
Pirate
Do you happen to have a top view of this set up? I am trying to hook up a wiper washer using the wiring that came with the Honda accessory fuse box. Thanks!I had the dealer install a heater and a windshield wiper/washer, so I have the acc fuse box kit installed. Is there a wiring diagram for this fuse box? I'd like to figure out how use the factory mounted switches with the fuse box to power my bilge fan and future accessoriesView attachment 349855
I took me a couple of communications with Jody at Seizmik to figure out their Halo side mirrors don't have backlight. There are stripes of translucent material for an LED to show through. Prying on the switch is an LED bulb behind each stripe. But the Engineer that spec'd the switch did not include backlighting. Checked all the spades in the switch, no luck.The wiring diagram I shared is for a switch that has a back light when the key is powered on. You'd wire the hot jumper from pin 3 to pin 6 if you want it to light when the switch is activated.
If you aren't concerned with your switch being back lit, you can just plug any switch into the SW block in the control harness and it will work as is.
I used one of my aux outputs to power my cooling fan that I added, and I wired it as shown in the diagram I shared. Hot from AUX to Pin 2, ground to pin 1 on the switch. Jumpers as shown and the hot leads from the fan to pin 3 and ground to pin 4. I used a duplex spade connector for the ground to piggy back on pin 4.