P1000 Clutch slipping

CumminsPusher

CumminsPusher

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I've bought probably 6 clutch packs off ebay from totaled machines. Usually $50-$75 a piece. All of them have been like new. You can tell pretty quick from the pictures if it might be bad because the basket is usually black from over heating. It's real easy to just replace the 1st gear clutch plates in the stock basket without removing the whole center gear. If the plastics are out of the way I can change plates in 20 min. If you have to remove the whole gear with both packs, I modified a screw driver to get the gears realigned instead of having to take the whole back of the motor apart. I do not recall anyone burning up the 2, 4, 6 clutch pack.
We had a slightly burnt up 2/4/6. When checked once two of the fibers were worn and steels were dark, was ready to let loose
Never had to take back of engine apart to do the gear. What are you referring too?
 
DG Rider

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Also, Ive had a few people now tell me that the I.R.G. for a P1000 will help keep this from happening again. What is yalls opinion on that? Here is a screenshot of a guy on facebook that has 25% gear reductions for the P1000 for $950, plus $600 if you dont have the core. I dont do facebook, I just ran across it in a google search and his facebook came up and I screenshoted his price list. Also, on a different subject, I notice in his price list he has a gear reduction for the Rincon 680 engine, which is the engine in the Pioneer 700. Does this mean you can do an I.R.G. in a P700? Thats the number one thing people complain about in the 700 is that it doesnt have low gear. This could possibly fix that at the cost of some top end speed.
Ive watched your videos on but never really noticed...is her 1000 on really big tires? The IGR would help, but you shouldn't need it if it's near stock.

The 700 already has the IGR (from the factory) that is being installed in the Rincon. We can probably assume that when the Rincon engine was introduced, no one ever conceived of it being in a side by side.
So this is why I think there will never be a IGR for the 700. The sub tranny gears have already been "modified" beyond their original intent, and at this point physical limitations prevent any lower gearing in it without extensive mods. One of the IGR guys hinted at this as well.
 
Bastardchild

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Ive watched your videos on but never really noticed...is her 1000 on really big tires? The IGR would help, but you shouldn't need it if it's near stock.

The 700 already has the IGR (from the factory) that is being installed in the Rincon. We can probably assume that when the Rincon engine was introduced, no one ever conceived of it being in a side by side.
So this is why I think there will never be a IGR for the 700. The sub tranny gears have already been "modified" beyond their original intent, and at this point physical limitations prevent any lower gearing in it without extensive mods. One of the IGR guys hinted at this as well.
Her P1000 is on 30s, nothing too big. She does want to get the C-Fab lift though and end up with 32s or 33s. I didnt know that about the Pioneer 700/Rincon engine. Good info. Thank you Sir!
 
Bastardchild

Bastardchild

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Next time hit me up already changed mine once thanks to hogwaller $400 and 3 hours
Thank you Sir! Im going to slowly collect the parts and maybe next time it happens I'll get with you to show me the ropes. :)
 
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Bastardchild

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The stock gear on the crank is actually 2 gears with 1 being spring loaded against the other to take out backlash to the clutch gear. It is made to install a bolt through it before removing the whole clutch assembly to keep the gears aligned. The only way to put the bolt in is to remove the oil tank and center spacer (a lot more work). I modified a screwdriver to to be able to realign the gears without having to take all that apart.

The IGR crank gear is just a single gear so no issues as long as u get the center spacer machined by them. Other issues from the igr is getting it to shift correct.
I was wondering if it might mess with the computers and shift points and such... thanks @snuffnwhisky
 
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snuffnwhisky

snuffnwhisky

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I was wondering if it might mess with the computers and shift points and such... thanks @snuffnwhisky
I figured out a few tweaks to get it pretty good. 2 speedo calibrators and a mod to the pressure control valve.
 
Choped5er

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I figured out a few tweaks to get it pretty good. 2 speedo calibrators and a mod to the pressure control valve.

Iv been wanting to look into a igr also and I'd like to know more about what you did to make it shift right and hoe good it actually does shift


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Bastardchild

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Ouch! I just realized they never gave me my complimentary jar of Vasoline!! I hope none of yall get screwed like I did. Next time I will be doing it myself. It drives great and Im loading it up now on the trailer at the house. When the wife gets home we a striking out for a weekend of drunken debauchery with friends camping and riding. Yall have a good one and be safe out there!

Screenshot 20190222 081410 Gallery
 
Fl-Cracker

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Ouch! I just realized they never gave me my complimentary jar of Vasoline!! I hope none of yall get screwed like I did. Next time I will be doing it myself. It drives great and Im loading it up now on the trailer at the house. When the wife gets home we a striking out for a weekend of drunken debauchery with friends camping and riding. Yall have a good one and be safe out there!

View attachment 109831
Ouch!!
 
A

Average_Joe

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Ouch! I just realized they never gave me my complimentary jar of Vasoline!! I hope none of yall get screwed like I did. Next time I will be doing it myself. It drives great and Im loading it up now on the trailer at the house. When the wife gets home we a striking out for a weekend of drunken debauchery with friends camping and riding. Yall have a good one and be safe out there!

View attachment 109831

Ours is a 2016 I smoked mine took it in with the 30's still on and Honda covered it.

Edited
 
Bastardchild

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Yeah hers is a 2018 so we werent that lucky. Glad it worked out for you. The clutch worked great when the engine wasnt overheating this past weekend! Thats what Im dealing with now.
 
Bastardchild

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Honda has an ECM reflash your dealer can upload and try.
Thanks for the info. @knuckledeep told me the same thing. Ive got the radiator out right now. Have had it soaking a couple days now even though its not really dirty. Gonna drain all the antifreeze and water out tonight and pick up some of that Evans waterless coolant this Friday and put it all back together and draw a vacuum on the system put that stuff in it. I also ordered a 2nd fan to mount in front of the radiator that Im going to wire to one of the unused switches on the dash. Just waiting for that to come in. After all thats done Im going to load it up and take it down for the reflash for the fan. So far this P1000 is turning out to be a finicky little biotch!
 
Neohio

Neohio

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Thanks for the info. @knuckledeep told me the same thing. Ive got the radiator out right now. Have had it soaking a couple days now even though its not really dirty. Gonna drain all the antifreeze and water out tonight and pick up some of that Evans waterless coolant this Friday and put it all back together and draw a vacuum on the system put that stuff in it. I also ordered a 2nd fan to mount in front of the radiator that Im going to wire to one of the unused switches on the dash. Just waiting for that to come in. After all thats done Im going to load it up and take it down for the reflash for the fan. So far this P1000 is turning out to be a finicky little biotch!
I did some reading on the waterless coolant. It sounds interesting.
Are you going to buy the flush they sell before converting it?
 
Bastardchild

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I did some reading on the waterless coolant. It sounds interesting.
Are you going to buy the flush they sell before converting it?
No. Im just going to figure out where to drain the water from the block and take off various hoses here and there and drain all the pipes that go under the floorboards and blow everything out with an air compressor or something like that. Once Im convinced there is no water left in the pump or anywhere else Im gonna try the vacuum method. Ive never done that before so I want to try. The Evans waterless stuff has a boiling point of like 375° or something like that. So if your engine gets up around 212° where water would normally boil and make steam to put air in your cooling system, the Evans stuff wont boil at that low of a temp so it may eliminate that. Im gonna try it. The stuff is roughly $45 or $50 a gallon. The P1000 takes slightly less than a gallon, but Im going to get 2 gallons to make up for spillage and stuff like that.
 
Neohio

Neohio

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No. Im just going to figure out where to drain the water from the block and take off various hoses here and there and drain all the pipes that go under the floorboards and blow everything out with an air compressor or something like that. Once Im convinced there is no water left in the pump or anywhere else Im gonna try the vacuum method. Ive never done that before so I want to try. The Evans waterless stuff has a boiling point of like 375° or something like that. So if your engine gets up around 212° where water would normally boil and make steam to put air in your cooling system, the Evans stuff wont boil at that low of a temp so it may eliminate that. Im gonna try it. The stuff is roughly $45 or $50 a gallon. The P1000 takes slightly less than a gallon, but Im going to get 2 gallons to make up for spillage and stuff like that.
You will like the vacuum setup. It is the only way to go when working on cooling systems.
 
A

Average_Joe

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Yeah hers is a 2018 so we werent that lucky. Glad it worked out for you. The clutch worked great when the engine wasnt overheating this past weekend! Thats what Im dealing with now.


Just my .02 your cooling system is fine if this is the first time you ran hot was in the forest. My 30's I run 4 bars in ONF I installed my spare set of 27in mudlite 2 bars occasionally touch 3 it's the sugar sand.
 
snuffnwhisky

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No. Im just going to figure out where to drain the water from the block and take off various hoses here and there and drain all the pipes that go under the floorboards and blow everything out with an air compressor or something like that. Once Im convinced there is no water left in the pump or anywhere else Im gonna try the vacuum method. Ive never done that before so I want to try. The Evans waterless stuff has a boiling point of like 375° or something like that. So if your engine gets up around 212° where water would normally boil and make steam to put air in your cooling system, the Evans stuff wont boil at that low of a temp so it may eliminate that. Im gonna try it. The stuff is roughly $45 or $50 a gallon. The P1000 takes slightly less than a gallon, but Im going to get 2 gallons to make up for spillage and stuff like that.
With 50/50 antifreeze the boiling point is about 220 degs. Under pressure from the radiator cap raises it to around 250 degs to boil. If the fan is working right (reflash at dealer if needed), the radiator is not clogged and there is no air in the system to begin with ( A lot of people have to burp a new rig) you shouldn't have any overheating issues. I don't think I've ever saw 3 bars on mine. I think my bumper and skid has helped a lot to keep mud out of the radiator. If you are going to be doing a lot of mud, you might want to look into a radiator relocate or maybe something a couple inches away from the front of the radiator to help block mud. We use some 12v pumps to spray out the radiators on the trail. Got to be careful with high pressure on the radiator fins. It can bend them internally and block air flow. The fan shroud is also about an inch away from the radiator which make the fan pretty ineffective but I'm assuming its like that to help wash mud out.
 
Bastardchild

Bastardchild

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With 50/50 antifreeze the boiling point is about 220 degs. Under pressure from the radiator cap raises it to around 250 degs to boil. If the fan is working right (reflash at dealer if needed), the radiator is not clogged and there is no air in the system to begin with ( A lot of people have to burp a new rig) you shouldn't have any overheating issues. I don't think I've ever saw 3 bars on mine. I think my bumper and skid has helped a lot to keep mud out of the radiator. If you are going to be doing a lot of mud, you might want to look into a radiator relocate or maybe something a couple inches away from the front of the radiator to help block mud. We use some 12v pumps to spray out the radiators on the trail. Got to be careful with high pressure on the radiator fins. It can bend them internally and block air flow. The fan shroud is also about an inch away from the radiator which make the fan pretty ineffective but I'm assuming its like that to help wash mud out.
Good info. Didnt know when its pressurized it raises the boiling point. I know water in a vacuum has a lower boiling point from my Navy days, but I didnt think about when its pressurized. Also, my wife sent me a few pics of radiator relocates on P1000s. Not a big fan of relocating radiators behind your head or on the hood where a little accident could get boiling water all over you, but we'll see. Ill see if I can find the pics and post them on here.
 

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