With all the posts of people abusing their machines it's good to see so few clutch issues.
With all the posts of people abusing their machines it's good to see so few clutch issues.
How deep of mud were you stuck in?Well 200 miles on my p1000 and burnt the clutches up at hogwaller. Its at rc hill honda in fl under warranty I hope this isn't an ongoing thing
How deep of mud were you stuck in?
Maybe its the type of riding I do, but I spend a lot of time in high and this machine knows exactly when to change gears. I still love the engine breaking going down steep hills. Sometimes it seems to respond to changing trail condition and corners before I know whats coming... amazing.He didn't need to be a smart ass, but I would tend to agree with him about low when on trails where you don't want to go more than 25 or 30, and tend to run mostly around 10 or 15mph. I prefer to run low/manual because we (me and Pete) don't always agree on when the shifting needs to occur. I'll run high/manual on gravel roads and other smooth tread where speeds are consistently 20 and above.
Maybe half my tires and they are stock
What vintage would you say my P1k-5 is? My vin# ends in 4000405? I have tried high and low range and MT and AT modes and mine seems to be happiest and smoothest at around 3200-3500 RPM in High and Manual Shift. Mostly mild to medium trails and two track forest roads. I don't do much rock climbing and no deep mud. Mine hasn't missed a beat, shuddered, or even tried to slip.
Maybe its the type of riding I do, but I spend a lot of time in high and this machine knows exactly when to change gears. I still love the engine breaking going down steep hills. Sometimes it seems to respond to changing trail condition and corners before I know whats coming... amazing.
Just asking because I didn't see it specified. Are you trail riding in Low Range or High Range? & have you change the oil yet (not sure how long you have had it) if so did you use full synthetic? I recommend only Low range for all tail riding under 30 MPH. It will not shudder nearly as much if you don't pussyfoot around with the throttle give it enough pedal to get moving (without giving everyone whiplash) easing into it only exaggerates the issue. Since having mine repaired there is no shuddering at all at any speed.
I think your shudder is not clutch shudder - it is the engine. Single cylinder would be worse.
I don't think so.
I just got done doing another experiment. I stopped on the hill and stomped the gas, went from 0 to 15 MPH in probably slightly more than 10 ft and shifted through at least 3 gears, it shifted so fast it was hard to feel though. I wound up leaving 2 ruts in the yard from the tires digging in. It shuddered very strongly but very short duration.
If it were engine related, it should be related to RPMs and it should do it when I am going 5 or 6 MPH in the same area in first gear but it doesn't. I should also do it when I am engine braking down the same hill at 3-4 MPH and 3,000 RPM. It is a definite "slip/catch, slip/catch, slip/catch" thumping feeling.
It only does it when I am going uphill and the engine is under 5MPH.
Yes, before anyone says it, there is nothing that I can do at 3 MPH that I can't do at 5 MPH EXCEPT start from a full stop. I can't stop on the hill and go from 0 to 5MPH without going through the 0-4MPH bad zone. Unfortunately I don't live in a flat area, I HAVE to start on a hill. I don't have a choice. If I can't do anything with it on a hill, I might as well just sell it and just keep using my mower and dump cart.
I am going to take it out again this weekend with my brother and my wife on the farm. Since the ability for me to have both a shorter vehicle that I could work around the house in and still ride with 4 people, I didn't really have any other options other than the P1000-5 or the P700 and I didn't want a Rincon with 4 seats and a bed on it. However, unless we have a really good time all together, I think I am going to be selling it and getting something else before this problem becomes more widespread and more well known and I get stuck holding a $19,000 boondoggle that I can't use without tearing up and no one will buy.
Maybe someone in Kansas will want to buy it.
Mine does the same thing, and I'm on 30's with zero problems so far. Just try to get out of that zone as quickly as you can. I think it is prolonged use and stress in this zone that causes issues down the line.
But, if you're just going to try to find reasons to get rid of it, you might as well sell it because you'll always try to find something wrong with it instead of accepting it for what it is.
Thing is, I really, really, really DON'T want to get rid of it. Not only would I lose my shirt trading it in or selling it, but I spent countless hours researching what I wanted to get and this machine was the best based on that research. I like WAY more about it than I dislike.
But, I am really not feeling the warm and fuzzy about this transmission. I had convinced myself beyond a shadow of a doubt going into this purchase that the clutch slipping issue was an initial production run problem due to assembly but reading back over this thread, most people's problems started out with shuddering and then progressed into full on slipping and burnt clutches. Since I am in no way shape or form abusing this much less using it hard, and my machine was at the least the 4,900th white Deluxe manufactured, it is unlikely to be a manufacturing defect or a result of running too big of a tire or slipping the clutch in deep mud.
I am experiencing the same clutch judder that other members who use their machine much harder than I do and they had to have their clutches replaced. That leads me to the only hypothesis that is left and that is a design issue. The machine isn't designed to handle starting on steep hills.
I don't want to believe that, but I am really starting to.
I understand, when more and more forum members started getting these things and adding larger tires, lifts, etc. there was a lot of panic as to how the transmission would hold up because it is geared just a tad bit too high in low and reverse, which makes the time period for full clutch engagement a little wider, even more so if you have larger tires. However, if you learn to drive where you get through that time gap quickly and out of the shudder zone, you'll be fine. Mine shudders on take off on flat ground if I try to ease it slow enough just because of the tires, but now that I am used to it, I put it in gear and I go. Use turf mode if you don't want to tear up the grass, it shouldn't be that bad with the stock bighorns. At the same time, you already got the 5 year warranty, so if you need the clutches replaced, who cares? Might not have the rig for a week or two, but it still wont cost you anything more than you've already paid.
I think that everyone that owns one of these machines will experience the shuddering when taking off from a dead stop on a hill, without a doubt. They just might not realize it. Bet your ass that even the most skilled stick-shifter in a jeep or truck starting from a stop on a steep hill will either make the engine/tranny shutter a bit on take off, or they would do like me and dump the clutch a little bit. My theory is when you park on the hill, as soon as you let off the brake you punch the gas, just like dumping a clutch, too eliminate the shudder zone all together. You just have to either get used to the shudder or stop caring as much about a few ruts in the grass. Honda would not design a machine that can't start and stop on a hill. I have pulled 1000 pounds of fallen timber on a trailer with 30" tires after stopping on a hill with no issue. Yes, it shuddered until it locked up, but it didnt last longI.
Gotta pick your battles with this one.