P1000 Confirmation on second battery that fits! Honda Pioneer 1000

[dojo]

Makes sense. I've seen an intermittent issue now with my current setup on the stock Yuasa battery, where sometimes when I change from turf mode to 2WD, it doesn't shift out of first gear.

It typically goes away on a restart of the engine, so I'm thinking its electrical, and based on some other reading it sounds like that it could be related to battery voltages as it makes all sorts of things act funny.

While I'm not 100% sure if that's the cause, I'm hoping it solves that issue too.

 

[Admin]

 

[JLR]

View attachment 254960

I am looking at adding this same setup as I need to replace my aux battery - thanks for posting the detailed photos, its nice to see how the battery will fit. One question I have on your fuse panel - what did you add for a volt meter and did you connect it to a key on relay or simply have it powered at all times?

 

[bumperm]

If you are buying the True isolator, one option is to get the package with the dual voltmeter. I think the meter is available in both the rocker switch "format" (i.e. fits in a rectangular slot), or in a round format in the pic below. It also comes with a relay for switching ground. That relay will be powered from fuse #5 (acc.) in your fuse block, as that goes positive with switch on. The switched ground relay can then be used for several things, including switching the dual voltmeter on at key-on, you can also use the switched ground to power a relay to switch your "key-on" power fuse block. In the pic below you'll see a little push button switch below the voltmeter. I installed that to momentarily apply a ground so the dual voltmeter will show voltage without turning on the key. I find this handy to use, rather than using the key switch when I don't want to run the machine. A side benefit is it allows the voltmeter to display "no-load" voltage.

 

[Dirtstiffs-1000]

I am looking at adding this same setup as I need to replace my aux battery - thanks for posting the detailed photos, its nice to see how the battery will fit. One question I have on your fuse panel - what did you add for a volt meter and did you connect it to a key on relay or simply have it powered at all times?

I had a couple of these laying around -
Volt meter

So..
I also have a dual battery volt meter on the dash, all wired key on relay # 5 accessory fus with an add a circuit piggy back. Old pic, sorry.
PM me if I can help.

 

[JLR]

Thank you both for the replies - I think ultimately I will want to go the key on route for both my aux fuse panel and for installing an additional volt meter. Right now I have a NAMZ Off-Road Battery Isolator kit that my dealer installed back when I bought the machine in 2019. If I had known what I know now I would have waited and simply installed a kit myself. I currently have a volt meter on the Honda Factory switch panel for my primary battery but nothing for my secondary. At the time they also simply installed a second factory battery as at the aux rather than going with a larger battery to fit the space. Currently I need to replace both batteries and am planning to go with another factory replacement for the starting battery and the larger Yuasa GYZ32HL as my aux since I should be able to get it at a discount from my dealer. I do have concern that the NAMZ isolator is not functioning correctly as I frequently hear it switching back and forth for an extended period of time after shutting down the machine but with no volt meter on my aux battery I have no way to know at what voltage it is switching. Do you ever observe this with the True isolator? I would think there should be a time delay or something once it cuts out.

At the moment my plan is to install new batteries and the fuse panel while keeping the NAMZ Isolator, add a cheap volt meter to see what is going on (that will initially be energized full time) and decide from there if I should replace the isolator with a kit/package from True that comes with the relay for switching ground. If all is well with my current isolator I may just add a small switch inline with the volt meter to turn it on when needed.

Any recommendations on just a relay for switching ground if I decide to add that for powering my fuse panel and a possibly the volt meter in the future?

 

[bumperm]

A Bosch 105 style relay, or similar, can be used to get switched ground using fuse #5 ACC to power the relay. I was faced with a similar "issue" voltmeter issue as the SE model comes with an LCD voltmeter that's more difficult to read than the LED versions and it takes up a fair amount of horizontal space. It was located right side of the horizontal row of light switches in my pic above. The thermometer shown replaced the LCD voltmeter. Both battery voltages are displayed on the round dual voltmeter.

My True isolator works properly, no switching back and forth. The NAMZ isolator looks to be a good product from reading the specs/operation sheet. It does allow the main battery to be discharged down to 12.4 volts while staying connected in parallel with the AUX battery under load - their thinking being that still allows the main battery to start the engine. This may be advantageous if one had to use a lot of battery capacity, say while winching, when unable to run the engine to help generate power.