Crashed into a river

[DesertSafari]

Rolled my new Pioneer down a rocky hill and into a river. I made it right to the bank of the other side but then it sucked too much water, had to leave it overnight and recover it in the morning. It won't start now and I'm sure it's water logged. I pulled the air intake duct from the front to the air box and it was full of water. Gonna do a snorkel conversion since I live right near the river but not sure what to do about the engine and fluids...just drain and run a bottle of Heet? Any advice is appreciated.

 

[Admin]

 

[Tflynn]

Pull the spark plug and crank it over. That should get rid of the water in the cylinder. Probably have to change oil a few times, at least until you no longer see that milky white in your oil. Change diffs as well. Obviously clean/dry air filter. If you have a 1000 change trans oil too. Shoot can't think of anything else at the moment, maybe someone else will chime in. Oh and GAS! Change out your gas

 

[Tflynn]

Your vent on the gas tank probably sucked in water so your gas is poison to your engine right now!

 

[DesertSafari]

Your vent on the gas tank probably sucked in water so your gas is poison to your engine right now!

I was thinking that as my tank was magically full when I recovered it. So I need to drain the fuel as well...Should I drain all the diff and trans oils too?

 

[DesertSafari]

I was thinking that as my tank was magically full when I recovered it. So I need to drain the fuel as well...Should I drain all the diff and trans oils too?

Sorry, just saw your whole post. thank you for the info, I will get on it first thing tomorrow...

 

[Tflynn]

Good luck! Let us know how it turns out

 

[swsebek]

Drain everything

 

[Tflynn]

Did you get it going @DesertSafari

 

[jak9922]

i rolled my on the left side for about 15mins and i had about a qt of oil in the air box from the vent hose which contaminated the engine oil and also it would run but only sputter blue smoke so just check/change and clean everything

 

[JACKAL]

Man this has to be a bummer, definitely do all of the following suggested:

Ensure no water is in the air intake and the filters are clean and dry or replaced.
Drain engine oil and replace both engine and DCT filters.
Drain Sub-transmission
Drain front and rear differentials
Remove fuel tank and completely empty and dry it out ensuring the lines and fuel pump are clear of and liquid.

Replace all fluids appropriately:
P1000 - Honda Pioneer 1000 Oil Change Guide!
P1000 - Sub-Transmission Oil change - Honda Pioneer 1000
P1000 - Differential Oil Change Front & Rear - Honda Pioneer 1000
Fuel tank breather hose - IMPORTANT if you ride water!

Engine Oil
Oil Filter Part # - 15412-HP7-A01 Buy one here --> http://amzn.to/1Qxj6tb
DCT Oil Filter part # 15412-MGS-D21 Buy one here --> http://amzn.to/1Qxj9oV
Honda recommends a API classification of SG or higher, do not use oils labeled as energy conserving or resource conserving.
- Viscosity (weight) SAE 10W-30. Other approved colder weather areas can use 5W-30, or 0W-30
- JASO T 903 standard - MA
- Suggested oil - Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke oil or Honda 4-stroke oils or and equivalent 4-stroke motorcycle oil.
---- 5.5 liters (5.8 US qt) after draining.
---- 5.7 liters (6.0 US qt) after draining and engine oil filter change.
---- 5.8 liters (6.1 US qt) after draining, engine oil filter change and DCT oil filter change.
---- 7.2 liters (7.6 US qt) after disassemble.

Sub-Transmission
Honda recommends a API classification of SG or higher, do not use oils labeled as energy conserving or resource conserving.
- Viscosity (weigt) SAE 10W-30. Other approved colder weather areas can use 5W-30, or 0W-30
- JASO T 903 standard - MA
- Suggested oil - Pro Honda GN4 4-stroke oil or Honda 4-stroke oils or and equivalent 4-stroke motorcycle oil.
---- 1.2 liters (1.3 US qt) after draining.
---- 1.4 liters (1.5 US qt) after disassembly.

Differential Oil:
Use Honda shaft drive oil or equivalent hypoid gear oil SAE 80.
- Front
---- 11.5 US oz at draining
---- 16.9 US oz at disassemble
- Rear
---- 15.9 US oz at draining
---- 18.6 US oz at disassemble

 

[DesertSafari]

Wow thanks for all the info. I got it all drained and changed out. The oil looked like milk in the sub trans, diarrhea in the engine, and egg yolk in the rear diff. The front diff looked clean and clear but it didn't sit in the water overnight. I had to pull the whole air intake from the front to the air box as water got in the low ends and baffles. Drained the fuel tank, purged the lines and cylinder heads, replaced all and after a few minutes of cranking it fired and spewed water out of the exhaust for about 5 minutes. All is running great now but today I discovered my rear passenger outer drive shaft boot had came undone and is splattering grease and debris plus making a clicking noise when the machine is turned to the right. I pulled the wheel, caliper and hub and discovered a ton of sand and gravel. I'm not sure how the hub housing comes off and how the axle is removed. I guess from the behind but it looks complicated... Any input or advice? I've done hub bearing jobs and axle replacements on cars and trucks but never a UTV.

 

[DesertSafari]

Good luck! Let us know how it turns out

Thanks for the info. I got it all drained and changed out. The oil looked like milk in the sub trans, diarrhea in the engine, and egg yolk in the rear diff. The front diff looked clean and clear but it didn't sit in the water overnight. I had to pull the whole air intake from the front to the air box as water got in the low ends and baffles. Drained the fuel tank, purged the lines and cylinder heads replaced all and after a few minutes of cranking it fired and spewed water out of the exhaust for about 5 minutes. All is running great now but today I discovered my rear passenger outer drive shaft boot had came undone and is splattering grease and debris plus making a clicking noise when the machine is turned to the right. I pulled the wheel, caliper and hub and discovered a ton of sand and gravel. I'm not sure how the hub housing comes off and how the axle is removed. I guess from the behind but it looks complicated... Any input or advice? I've done hub bearing jobs and axle replacements on cars and trucks but never a UTV.

 

[DesertSafari]

Drain everything

Thanks. I got it all drained and changed out. The oil looked like milk in the sub trans, diarrhea in the engine, and egg yolk in the rear diff. The front diff looked clean and clear but it didn't sit in the water overnight. I had to pull the whole air intake from the front to the air box as water got in the low ends and baffles. Drained the fuel tank, purged the lines and cylinder heads replaced all and after a few minutes of cranking it fired and spewed water out of the exhaust for about 5 minutes. All is running great now but today I discovered my rear passenger outer drive shaft boot had came undone and is splattering grease and debris plus making a clicking noise when the machine is turned to the right. I pulled the wheel, caliper and hub and discovered a ton of sand and gravel. I'm not sure how the hub housing comes off and how the axle is removed. I guess from the behind but it looks complicated... Any input or advice? I've done hub bearing jobs and axle replacements on cars and trucks but never a UTV.

 

[DesertSafari]

Just ordered the service manual off of HelmInc. Should get it on Tuesday and make a big difference. Any advice is appreciated.

 

[Tabascojunkie]

I recommend pulling every electrical plug spray WD-40 to displace water blow with compressed air and coat with dilectric grease and reconnect.

 

[DesertSafari]

I have the engine going strong but will still change all fluids a few more times. Have replaced the damaged portions of the roll cage, but the other day I heard an odd clicking noise from the right rear wheel when turning right and found a dislodged shaft boot along with hub bearing and outboard joint filled with sand and gravel. I now have the parts in hand and am in the process of replacing the outboard joint, boot, and drive shaft. I am wondering, have you heard of people switching out the boot bands with thread tension hose clamps. I am not very impressed that getting stuck in a river caused two of my boot bands to come undone (not break, but unfasten). I have all new ones but before I install them I am contemplating replacing with large diameter hose clamps. Any thoughts?

 

[joeymt33]

You could try PEX plumbing clamps. But they have to be cut off.


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