popeye
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Oh. Dude I didn't even think about what you were saying. I don't know.Turned out ok for what it was. I think youll need the right dia "t" to tap into the rad. Hoses. One thing to think about with doing the way you want is there will not be any heat or coolant flow every time the thermostat closes. But with hooking up to the oil cooler line i assume it is inside of the thermostat so constantly getting coolant flow. How come you are wanting to do the rad hoses instead?
Sent from my LGMS631 using Tapatalk
Do I need to get a special heater core or is the oil at that temp going to be flowing pretty freely?I downloaded the oem honda directions on how to install their heater from the resources page on here. Not wanting to try to reinvent the wheel or smoke my engine and honda giving me the cold shoulder. Ill try to get you some pics. But the line you splice into is under the front seat towards the drivers side right next to the wall to the little storage cubby. 1/2" diameter. If you follow it back to the back of the engine it supplys the oil cooler.
Sent from my LGMS631 using Tapatalk
Do I need to get a special heater core or is the oil at that temp going to be flowing pretty freely?
Maybe it well even help with clutch life?
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
I have a VW. Evidently Im thinking something different when you say oil cooler.The oil cooler has engine coolent being pumped through it. And that coolant line is what i taped into. Its not pumping oil through your heater core
Sent from my LGMS631 using Tapatalk
Maybe it well even help with clutch life?
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
I dont think that was what he was implying. He just didnt understood how the oil coolers in the 1k transfered heatPersonally I wouldn't add an oil cooler. Even though cooler oil is a good thing you might be changing oil pressures in the process. Everything is controlled by pressure.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
And I still don't. Please explain. Is it Internal? It's the same coolant as the radiator only it runs to a different spot?I dont think that was what he was implying. He just didnt understood how the oil coolers in the 1k transfered heat
Sent from my LGMS631 using Tapatalk
Yes. That makes sense. I assumed we were talking an actual oil cooler.Think of it like a oem transmission cooler on a new truck. Where it is plumbed through the radiator. So engine coolant being pumped through the oem honda oil cooler soaks up the heat from the hot engine/transmission oil. The 1k picks up coolant from the water pump area on the front of the engine. Pushes it through a 1/2" hose out and around the outside of the drivers side of the engine to the oil cooler thats just on top to the filter covers on the backdrivers side of the engine. Make sense?
Sent from my LGMS631 using Tapatalk
Your the bomb dude.P1k - HEATER / DEFROST - 0SE01-HL4-101 - Instructions
page 7&8 show you where to cut and spice into the oem line
I used some brass barbed fittings and corbin style hose clamps so they wont ever back off or loosen up and leak on me
you'll neew two of these fittings
Okay, so you did a reroute through your heater core and used this union?
Read back on the first post on this thread and you can see what im runningYour the bomb dude.
Now on a scale of 1 to 10, how hot does it get in the cab? Roughly how big is your heater core, and do you think a better fan would help performance?
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Yeah. 6x6x3. But I'm talking if you could redesign, would you get anything bigger or a better fan? Because I can do that right now for little cost.Read back on the first post on this thread and you can see what im running
Sent from my LGMS631 using Tapatalk
No but my winter is pretty mild. I did take a heat gun reading one time and it was blowing 100+ deg heat air out of the heaterYeah. 6x6x3. But I'm talking if you could redesign, would you get anything bigger or a better fan?
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk