P1000m5 Does my wiring diagram make sense? What about a low voltage disconnect?

[tycoonbob]

So I've ordered everything for my dual battery setup plus more, and diagramed it all out and wanted to get some feedback.

Here's the diagram (v2):



So hope it makes sense. I'm no master electrician, but I feel I have a good understanding of what I am doing and trying to achieve. I know the diagram leaves some things out, so take it with a grain of salt. I haven't bought a radio yet, but likely will go with the Rockford Fosgate PMX-3. Haven't bought a light bar, but if it's rated for >15A, I will likely put it on a relay instead of direct to the switch. Same for the light pods, as I will have 2 pods wired together (but they should be fine direct to the switch).

For clarification, the dashed lines are NOT connections, but simply a line leading to an image of what exactly I have.


I do have a couple questions that I hope someone can help me sort out.

1) So for my "Dual Battery Volt Meter", on the "Aux Battery" side, I have it wired to 85 on my relay. Is this acceptable? Should I instead wire it on 86 side of it? Should I add an inline fuse?

2) So for my "Aux Switch", is there any problem with me connecting it, as well as the relay, coming from the output side of my Circuit Breaker? Circuit Breaker to 30 on my relay I will be using a 6AWG wire, but the switch will be using 18AWG wire. Should I add a 1A (or bigger?) fuse inline before the switch? The switch is rated for 20A.

3) I'm also toying with the idea of a low voltage disconnect. I know I can get a beefy 100A disconnect and wire that between the Circuit Breaker and Relay, but I feel like a smarter option would be a 20A (or less?) disconnect before the "Aux Switch". If Aux Battery voltage drops below 11.0V disconnect the switch to the relay, so opening the high-current side of the relay, regardless of the switch in the cab. Reconnect once Aux Battery reaches 12.0V. Something like that.

Thoughts? Feedback? Anything is appreciated!

 

[Admin]

 

[Tramguage1]

Put one (+)wire from each side of the isolator to the (+) on main and aux of the volt meter. Then switch the ground by adding a key on controlled relay. That way the volt meter only comes on with key on.
Also why do you need a switch controlld relay to power up the fuse box? The idea of the isolator is to be able to drain the Aux battery and not affect the main battery.

 

[tycoonbob]

Put one (+)wire from each side of the isolator to the (+) on main and aux of the volt meter. Then switch the ground by adding a key on controlled relay. That way the volt meter only comes on with key on.
Also why do you need a switch controlld relay to power up the fuse box? The idea of the isolator is to be able to drain the Aux battery and not affect the main battery.

Wonderful idea to put a relay on the ground side. I like that a lot better.

As far as a switched relay, this is something I'm still on the fence about. Sure, I could just put it on the key, but my thinking is I would rather be able to use this while my Pioneer is not running, and I wondered what kind of effect my main battery would have from sitting for an hour or more with the key on.

If I wired it to the key, I'd probably still have a switch so I could shut off all loads to the second battery if I wanted. Plus, I'd either have a switch for the radio, or a master switch like I diagramed above.
So a keyed switch relay versus a switched relay, I felt a straight switched relay is just less complicated.
Does that make sense? Or is it recommended to do it another way?

 

[Tramguage1]

As far as a switched relay, this is something I'm still on the fence about. Sure, I could just put it on the key, but my thinking is I would rather be able to use this while my Pioneer is not running, and I wondered what kind of effect my main battery would have from sitting for an hour or more with the key on.

In this statement are you talking about the volt eter relay?

 

[Tramguage1]

Instead of a master relay in the fuse feed, wouldn' just turning off all device switche do the same thing?

 

[tycoonbob]

In this statement are you talking about the volt eter relay?

No, talking about the 100A relay on the Aux Battery circuit. Sorry for the rambling in my above post; tried to do it from my phone.

Instead of a master relay in the fuse feed, wouldn' just turning off all device switche do the same thing?

Yes, if I had everything on a switch. Actually, everything but the radio will already be on a switch, so instead I could put a switch on the radio, but I figured at that point I should just switch the 100A relay. As far as I can figure, I'll need the 100A relay either way, and it's a matter of do I want to charge it (thus turning on the entire circuit) via a switch, or via Key/Accessory. It just made more sense, to me at least, to use a switch. Would have more control over whether I wanted everything on or off.

I order a few 30A relays already, and will use one for the volt meter. I will try to get my diagram updated tonight.

 

[Tramguage1]

Just not sure why you need a master switch? If your worried about in case of an emergency add a resetable overload relay.

 

[tycoonbob]

Just not sure why you need a master switch? If your worried about in case of an emergency add a resetable overload relay.

Would there not be a concern about draining the main battery if I leave the key on but the engine not running? If the key is on and engine not running, I could run radio/lights/whatever from my aux battery, but wouldn't leaving the key on effect the main battery? I mean, fuel pump would be on, LCD dash would be on, headlights could be turned on...I just figured it was less risky (to the main battery) to have a master switch versus running aux devices on the key.

Updated wiring diagram:
https://imgur.com/IyAEjKy.png

 

[Tramguage1]

Only the key on relay would allow the volt meter to light up. I have everything running off my AUX battery except the factory items. If the AUX battery gets drained the isolator will disconnect from the main battery. That way your starting battery is unaffected.

 

[Smitty335]

Only the key on relay would allow the volt meter to light up. I have everything running off my AUX battery except the factory items. If the AUX battery gets drained the isolator will disconnect from the main battery. That way your starting battery is unaffected.

My osolater is quad fused to my quad isolater that is switched by key on and off positions if the moon phase in the the last quadrant of the last lunar leap year, works great!

 

[Tramguage1]

@Smitty335 you forgot the flux capacitor

 

[ohanacreek]

@Smitty335 you forgot the flux capacitor

https://www.oreillyauto.com/flux-capacitor

 

[Tramguage1]

https://www.oreillyauto.com/flux-capacitor

 

[Smitty335]

@Smitty335 you forgot the flux capacitor

That's round two!

 

[tycoonbob]

Made some good progress yesterday. Got my second battery, battery isolator and volt meter for both batteries (on a keyed relay) installed. I also got my 100A circuit breaker, 100A switched relay (switch installed), and fuse panel installed.



I need to tidy up some cables toward the rear, and considering shortening some wires to the switches but I really don't feel like pulling those out again. I'd also like to find some way to secure the aux battery, though I don't think it's going anywhere as it is. Lastly, I've attached the fuse panel to the pre-filter box via velcro, but that's not a permanent solution. I was hoping to mount it in that opening to the right of the box, but the space is just a tad too small. I may need to find a different fuse panel to use instead.
I'm pretty happy with my bus bar, circuit breaker, and wish my 100A relay had covered terminals. The 30A relay I am using I am pretty happy with. Has a harness included, plus a 87a wire (that I'm not using). I used 6AWG cable for connections between main components, and 16AWG for connections to switches, etc. I bought pre-cut 6AWG lengths, but wish I would had made my own for a cleaner setup.

 

[Smitty335]

Made some good progress yesterday. Got my second battery, battery isolator and volt meter for both batteries (on a keyed relay) installed. I also got my 100A circuit breaker, 100A switched relay (switch installed), and fuse panel installed.



I need to tidy up some cables toward the rear, and considering shortening some wires to the switches but I really don't feel like pulling those out again. I'd also like to find some way to secure the aux battery, though I don't think it's going anywhere as it is. Lastly, I've attached the fuse panel to the pre-filter box via velcro, but that's not a permanent solution. I was hoping to mount it in that opening to the right of the box, but the space is just a tad too small. I may need to find a different fuse panel to use instead.
I'm pretty happy with my bus bar, circuit breaker, and wish my 100A relay had covered terminals. The 30A relay I am using I am pretty happy with. Has a harness included, plus a 87a wire (that I'm not using). I used 6AWG cable for connections between main components, and 16AWG for connections to switches, etc. I bought pre-cut 6AWG lengths, but wish I would had made my own for a cleaner setup.

I like it!