P1000 DPDT switch testing

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lvscrap

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Hi fellas. So I installed a DPDT switch on my 22 P1k5 a few weeks ago and it's been working great. I followed the wiring diagrams here to install the accessory fuse box along with a cole hearse solenoid and the extra neg and pos bus bars.

I would usually just leave the switch up on acc power so that when I shut the motor off the radio wouldn't die.

Yesterday, all of the sudden I lost power on the acc side of the switch. I switched it to key on and everything powered up. Now that upper acc power side of the switch is dead and the key on side works fine. What could this mean? I'm an electrical newb and this was my first project. It went flawless until now. Currently the switch works down for key on power with a backlight and everything. The upper acc side is dead with no light and no power. Could the switch have gone bad or could it be something else? Can I test the switch or just order a new one? Thanks
20220703 143326
20220703 143318
20220703 143420
20220703 203226
 
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lvscrap

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That last pic shows it working fine. It's not working right now. Aux side is dead and key on side works fine. 😔
 
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Neohio

Neohio

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Need to check incoming power to switch on aix side.

Check all your crimps for bad connections.
 
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Hondasxs

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Switch pin 4 and 6.
See if the issues moves the the down position.
If yes. Issues is elsewhere.

Make sure pin 4 is not touching pin 7.

Using those non-insulated spade connectors.
I would recomend a wrap of elec tape around pin 7 and 9.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
 
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lvscrap

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Switch pin 4 and 6.
See if the issues moves the the down position.
If yes. Issues is elsewhere.

Make sure pin 4 is not touching pin 7.

Using those non-insulated spade connectors.
I would recomend a wrap of elec tape around pin 7 and 9.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
When I switch pin 4-6 the acc works and the key on doesn't. So it must not be the switch. The other pins are not touching. What else should I check? Thanks
 
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lvscrap

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Need to follow the line.
Where/what is it hooked to.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
Sorry for the late reply. I was on my archery elk hunt.😃

I have attached a picture of my two pos bus bars. I've tried to use the diagram that I've attached to run the two pos bus bars. One is the "accessory" bar. That's the bar in the back and the other "primary" POS bar is in the front. The shared NEG bar is on the opposite side. I have my True isolator running to the primary POS bus and then the primary POS bus connects to the high side of the stinger. The other high side of the stinger goes to the secondary fuse box. I then have the POS low side of the stinger going to the accessory POS bus and the low side NEG over to the NEG bus. I have post 4 of the DPDT switch going to the 12v outlet for key on power and post 6 goes to the primary POS bar. Post 5 is jumped with post 2 and goes to the accessory POS bar. This setup was working fine for a few weeks, but I'm guessing I've wired something wrong. Hopefully this explanation with the pictures gives you an idea of what I've done here. 😂 Thanks for taking a look.
Screenshot 20220629 103544 Chrome
20220903 205716
20220903 210522
20220903 205058
20220903 205640
 
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lvscrap

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The secondary battery is also connected to the primary bus.
 
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lvscrap

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The loose wire I'm holding is from pin 5 and that was connected to the "accessory" bus. Pin 6 I have connected to the primary bus with the 3 amp inline fuse. Pin 4 is connected to the 12v outlet with the harness from the club shop.
 
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lvscrap

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So pin 6 is the one not working and that has the 3 amp fuse. I changed the fuse and it's working again. Lmfao
 
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lvscrap

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If you could make sense of any of that, is this layout correct? What's the 3 amp fuse for and any idea why it would go? Thanks again for your help.
 
CID

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If you could make sense of any of that, is this layout correct? What's the 3 amp fuse for and any idea why it would go? Thanks again for your help.
If a fuse blows once, I ignore it - 'something' happened. If it happens again, you know where to start.
 
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