Enclosed Trailer 8.5 X 28' Setup for SXS

[JACKAL]

Sounds like a nice, top of the line trailer. What MAKE is it?

I must be confused on the outer skin, being .40 ....... that can't be 4/10" thick, is it?

Sorry will correct, its 40 thousandths thick or 0.040 industry just posts incorrectly as 0.22 0.24 0.30 0.40 etc.

 

[Admin]

 

[JACKAL]

Spaced apart axles on torsions, nice.
Should pull like a dream.

My only regret with my 17' is not getting windows.
Buddy at work had his enclosed trailer blow over one night in a storm.
If I was in mine and it landed on the door I would be stuck.
Probably will never happen but it makes me paranoid.
But I'm using mine as a tin tent where you are not.

I thought about what you said, getting tipped over on passenger side blocking the regular door, after reading your post, then thought about it more then realized, I will have a 36" x 36" generator door on drivers side. So worst case scenario just need to be able to open it from inside, as an emergency exit.

 

[JACKAL]

Lol.. that’s a really good point actually

Of course you could just slip out the roof vent hole!

The only way I would fit through the roof vent is if Jeffrey Dahlmer was sending me out in pieces.

 

[LarryAmboy]

I have tugged a little of everything over past 3 years ( & 450,000 miles), even new V nose Toyhaulers. In a dually I only notice the reduced mpg with flat nose trailers no difference in handling - however they are all empty enroute to dealers.

If a person is having sway issues, one or more of 4 things is going on:

1. The trailer is not 10-15% front heavy balanced, if you are pulling 10,000 lbs you better have 1000 to 1200 lbs weight on that ball at least. > provided the hitch and truck are capable and not overloaded.
2. the trailer is not sitting level when loaded and hooked up, a nose high setup is just asking to put yourself in the ditch (buy a proper drop hitch, top of ball should be approx 18-19" once connected and loaded) excessive nose down is bad too.
3. The trailer axles are not aligned properly - but should have tire wear issues bringing that the light quickly.
4. The tow vehicle is not properly matched to the load and / or has had suspension modified (3/4 ton owners w 6" lift yes I'm talking to you) and is squatting etc excessively thus affecting handling & trailer sway.

How do you know how much tounge weight is on your hitch? Weigh Safe

Cautionary note, just don't click this link and buy blindly, this is a 3" shank hitch rated for 21K bumper pull, only real truck need apply Yes they make smaller ones for you Chevy and Ram owners with regular 2" & 2.5" receivers (as pictured below) the 3" version scale goes to 2500 lbs tounge weight.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CSFVQTR/?tag=sxsweb24-20


View attachment 134380

I’ve got one of these and love it


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[JACKAL]

Sounds like a nice, top of the line trailer. What MAKE is it?

I must be confused on the outer skin, being .40 ....... that can't be 4/10" thick, is it?

The company brand that is actually building my trailer is called Cynergy Advanced, however I am buying through SDG trailers (Douglas, GA) who actually specialize in refrigeration and concession trailers fully equipped. About the only place you find them advertising straight car haulers is on Ebay as user seabo99. I bought a 34' car hauler from them in 2015 after it got me moved from IL to TN realized it was too long for the mountain roads I lived on. Turned around and sold it on Ebay for $2k more than I paid for it.

 

[Leatherneck]

Reese 58305 Reese Weight Distributing Chain Hangers - Bolt On https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VAXU8K/?tag=sxsweb24-20

These are my only option for the v-nose for running a weight distribution hitch. I have painted marks on the floor to make sure the rigs are in optimal position inside the trailer. I have been told to let my tire pressure down to 65lbs also anymore ideas?

 

[JACKAL]

Reese 58305 Reese Weight Distributing Chain Hangers - Bolt On https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VAXU8K/?tag=sxsweb24-20

These are my only option for the v-nose for running a weight distribution hitch. I have painted marks on the floor to make sure the rigs are in optimal position inside the trailer. I have been told to let my tire pressure down to 65lbs also anymore ideas?

This is the type of weight distribution hitch I used, never found a trailer it wouldn't connect to, probably used it on two dozen different types of trailers and had to use it per company policy. Never had a sway issue using it.

 

[Leatherneck]

This is the Same setup I have. The problem I have is the piece that hooks the chains to the trailer. With the V nose there is no space for that piece and the bars actually go under the trailer.

 

[JACKAL]

This is the Same setup I have. The problem I have is the piece that hooks the chains to the trailer. With the V nose there is no space for that piece and the bars actually go under the trailer.

Well what a pickle of a delimma. Still, if you have the proper amount of weight forward pressing down on the hitch ball, and the trailer and tow vehicle are sitting level, you should not be experiencing sway issues. That said if what you're pulling is overload for your tow vehicle and or trying to drive 75 mph + all bets are off for handling. If it's swaying at 65 mph then something isn't right, weight distribution hitch or not.

 

[Leatherneck]

Well what a pickle of a delimma. Still, if you have the proper amount of weight forward pressing down on the hitch ball, and the trailer and tow vehicle are sitting level, you should not be experiencing sway issues. That said if what you're pulling is overload for your tow vehicle and or trying to drive 75 mph + all bets are off for handling. If it's swaying at 65 mph then something isn't right, weight distribution hitch or not.

Thanks for all the help still a few more options to weigh out before I sell it. I really think JTW is on to something with the vortex thing tho. Because The problem is at over 60 mph when other vehicles enter my airspace especially around the back of the trailer.

 

[ohanacreek]

Thanks for all the help still a few more options to weigh out before I sell it. I really think JTW is on to something with the vortex thing tho. Because The problem is at over 60 mph when other vehicles enter my airspace especially around the back of the trailer.

That still sounds like you’ve got too much weight too far back if turbulence can cause swaying.

 

[lee]

The only way I would fit through the roof vent is if Jeffrey Dahlmer was sending me out in pieces.

Interesting, I must have misunderstood, I thought maybe @JTW was calling me fat.

 

[popeye]

Thanks for all the help still a few more options to weigh out before I sell it. I really think JTW is on to something with the vortex thing tho. Because The problem is at over 60 mph when other vehicles enter my airspace especially around the back of the trailer.

You could always take your trailer loaded to a local cat scale and drop it on the scales with just the jack leg on the scale than pull your truck off the scale. I agree with every one else it sounds like you don’t have enough tongue weight. Also maybe try loading your pioneer in backwards to trough some more weight forward


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[lee]

Thanks for all the help still a few more options to weigh out before I sell it. I really think JTW is on to something with the vortex thing tho. Because The problem is at over 60 mph when other vehicles enter my airspace especially around the back of the trailer.

Stability / instability can also be frequency responce to the running gear and tires.
Trailer tires have a stiff side wall to counter this.
Sometimes when a truck tire is used on a trailer the onset of sway will drop down to freeway speeds.
LT tires can handle the weight or load rating, the issue is in the side to side spring rate of the tire.

Another thing that might help is using a cam style sway control.
A quick internet search and it looks like my system is a bit old.
(Internet picture)

These systems want the trailer to track straight, the friction bar things are only resisting movement but have no idea where it is suposed to be.
They are pricey.
Also the cam style makes a lot of noise, takes a little getting used to.

Only down side I found was one time the wife was driving (Chevy crew cab 3/4 ton + 24' toy hauler) when the sky started falling.
Wife didn't like the heavy rain so she took the next exit.
As soon as she turned out of the track of the vehicles in front the truck and trailer started to hydroplane and the bars snapped the truck and trailer straight in line.
As soon as everything slowed down a bit the tires regained traction and it all went back to normal.
It all worked out but a little dicey for a second or two.

 

[Mopower58]

I had a V-neck gooseneck and never had a problem. 38 ft. 3 axle. Nice trailer Jackyl.

 

[Leatherneck]

You could always take your trailer loaded to a local cat scale and drop it on the scales with just the jack leg on the scale than pull your truck off the scale. I agree with every one else it sounds like you don’t have enough tongue weight. Also maybe try loading your pioneer in backwards to trough some more weight forward


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I have done this. I know exactly where the rigs need to be for optimal hitch weight.

Stability / instability can also be frequency responce to the running gear and tires.
Trailer tires have a stiff side wall to counter this.
Sometimes when a truck tire is used on a trailer the onset of sway will drop down to freeway speeds.
LT tires can handle the weight or load rating, the issue is in the side to side spring rate of the tire.

Another thing that might help is using a cam style sway control.
A quick internet search and it looks like my system is a bit old.
(Internet picture)
View attachment 134479
These systems want the trailer to track straight, the friction bar things are only resisting movement but have no idea where it is suposed to be.
They are pricey.
Also the cam style makes a lot of noise, takes a little getting used to.

Only down side I found was one time the wife was driving (Chevy crew cab 3/4 ton + 24' toy hauler) when the sky started falling.
Wife didn't like the heavy rain so she took the next exit.
As soon as she turned out of the track of the vehicles in front the truck and trailer started to hydroplane and the bars snapped the truck and trailer straight in line.
As soon as everything slowed down a bit the tires regained traction and it all went back to normal.
It all worked out but a little dicey for a second or two.

This is why I hijacked this post these will not fit a Vnose trailer I have one for my camper and tried to use it but there is no where to mount it on the tongue because the box takes up the tongue space. I am however going back to sixty five psi in the tires I think this will help the problem got exaggerated when I put 80 psi in the tires and changed to Nitto tires on my truck.

 

[JTW]

Interesting, I must have misunderstood, I thought maybe @JTW was calling me fat.

More like... well kept

 

[JTW]

I thought about what you said, getting tipped over on passenger side blocking the regular door, after reading your post, then thought about it more then realized, I will have a 36" x 36" generator door on drivers side. So worst case scenario just need to be able to open it from inside, as an emergency exit.

36x36? Better keep some butter in the trailer!

 

[lee]

This is why I hijacked this post these will not fit a Vnose trailer I have one for my camper and tried to use it but there is no where to mount it on the tongue because the box takes up the tongue space.

I have a weight distribution setup on my v-nose.
It's a pain to hook up but it uses bolt on hook for the chain.
I use the tongue jack to lift the back of the truck and hook up the bars.
Hook looks like this:

This might combine with a bolt on cam lock system.
If it's a steel tongue it will work, no idea with aluminum frame (can't afford one of those yet).


Cruise e-trailer, see what they got, look at the prices then try playing with the tire pressures.

 

[ohanacreek]

I have a weight distribution setup on my v-nose.
It's a pain to hook up but it uses bolt on hook for the chain.
I use the tongue jack to lift the back of the truck and hook up the bars.
Hook looks like this:
View attachment 134521
This might combine with a bolt on cam lock system.
If it's a steel tongue it will work, no idea with aluminum frame (can't afford one of those yet).
View attachment 134523

Cruise e-trailer, see what they got, look at the prices then try playing with the tire pressures.

Nice I hadn’t thought of the v-nose issue, going to have to see what I can find on there.