CID
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
...
And, yes, it does take a double reverse half pike with a full layout dismount to get out of the trailer after loading up...
Yep. I have an X and a 7' x 14' haul mark. I also have an 8.5'x20' Wells and I love the 7'. Visibility while towing us just a lot better and less stressful. I have about a foot clearance inside and can slip in and out fine. Also no problems with the ramp cables. I run 6+1 front and 5+2 rear with 15x7 STI hd wheels and 15x30 terabyte Aramid. I load it carefully and snug the tires against one wall.
For a minute or two of extra loading time it's worth the rear visibility to me.
PS, I'm 180, 5'11". It's a little squeeze sliding in and out of the door but no gymnastics required.
Choogsbro
CEO of Monkey Business
Lifetime Member
I had a 7X14 v-nose. Did it work ? Yes. And I'm old and fat. Did I wish it was wider and longer ? Definitely wish it was wider. I would go no less than 8 if I buy again.
We have two machines and the 8.5x24 v nose with 1’ extra height and extended tongue is great with a tad of room to spare. I had this trailer built with an electrical panel with a 25’ lifeline cord, braced for a roof hvac unit, recessed led roof panel lights, recessed spare tire well in the floor and quiet a few other options. I really wanted an aluminum trailer, but for the price with the options I’ve added, there’s no way I’m paying that much. I’m going to modify the interior of the trailer to make it into a poor boys toy hauler as time goes by. South Georgia is the trailer production capital of the world I think which significantly reduces the acquisition costs of a trailer.
Plumber32
Go ride!
Lifetime Member
Club Contributor
That's a beautiful setup you have.We have two machines and the 8.5x24 v nose with 1’ extra height and extended tongue is great with a tad of room to spare. I had this trailer built with an electrical panel with a 25’ lifeline cord, braced for a roof hvac unit, recessed led roof panel lights, recessed spare tire well in the floor and quiet a few other options. I really wanted an aluminum trailer, but for the price with the options I’ve added, there’s no way I’m paying that much. I’m going to modify the interior of the trailer to make it into a poor boys toy hauler as time goes by. South Georgia is the trailer production capital of the world I think which significantly reduces the acquisition costs of a trailer.
C
Go 8.5 wide V-nose, my pioneer would hit the ceiling(6.5’ tall with dove tail and 6.5’door) so I sold mine and have regret it. Now I’m stuck using my 7’ wide enclosed snowmobile trailer that is 7’ tall. It is a pain in the ass getting in and out of the Talon x and the Pioneer 1000-5. But I’m 280lbs and 6’6”. It is easier to take off the factory roof on the pioneer than get in and out of them in the 7th wide trailer. The 20’x8.5’x6.5 with a 6’ V-nose all aluminum car trailer (9999 GVW) pulls as good as my 22’x7’x7’with a 5’ V-nose all aluminum (6500 GVW). Thank god I sold it to someone who lets me still use it! Lol. The V nose makes a big difference, it is the equalizer, I wouldn’t buy a steel and/or flat nose enclosed trailer(pulled lots of them to races). My stock duramax gets the same mileage pulling those trailers (11mpg from SD to western PA several times with both.)
Thanks for all the great information. I just ordered a US Cargo 8.5' x 16' v-nose, 7' high interior. 4-6 weeks and I can give up my old flatbed.
This thing is huge!!
This thing is huge!!
You’ll never regret going with the bigger trailer! Load your Talon in your new trailer a few times then try loading it in a 7’ trailer! You’ll go hug the 8.5x16 when you get out of the 7’er!!
Myself I got a good deal on a 6 mo. old 8.5x20 v nose. Problem is it has a 75” cargo door height! It does have the no-see dove tail, that I’m hoping will let me get the Talon in and out through the door, but I’m waiting for my shocks to get back from Shock Therapy which they say will add 1”+, and I plan to go to 30” tires eventually, so door clearance is going to be an issue! I’m thinking I’ll be looking for ways to compress the suspension! Maybe even deflating tires!
Height keeps coming up all over the forum; try undoing the roof clamps then just lift it off & lay on top the roll cage or move the whole roof to the side side of the trailer during transport. I don't remember exactly how much space you gain but it's between 4-6 inches. It takes like 2-minutes. See if that works and let us know please?
ohanacreek
My EcoBoost has I4WD
Moderator
Lifetime Member
Talon doesn’t have elevated clamps like the Pioneer, it bolts straight to the ROPS. May gain 1-2” at very most.
That’s an idea, but I hope a couple straps around the trailing arms and up to the frame may make for a quick easy couple inches...fingers crossed!
That usually works as well, I was hoping to save ya'll some energy, I didn't know the roof wasn't elevated as much as the Pioneer thought it's worth a shot to see.
The best I can tell you is that I paid $450 extra to go from 14' to 16'.
QuadMan747
Well-Known Member
Not sure if someone answered this, how much harder would it be to pull the VNose 20'Lx7'Tx8.5'W than a 16 ft. I would think it wouldn't matter much. towing behind a 1/2 ton truck?
J
JTW
Guest
If you’re talking the same size other than length the drag will be the same... longer trailers typically pull better.
