EPS light, Speedometer reading Zero, Wont shift

[JakeNasty]

I have a 2019 pioneer 1000 5 with right at 1000 miles. If I drive for an hour straight and it's hot outside my eps light will come on, my speedometer stops working and the machine will not shift. Also there is no engine braking. The dealership won't do anything for me. They say there is nothing wrong with my machine. Its happened 3 times naturally and twice I was able to duplicate it on purpose by driving around slow for about an hour. Im hearing from others and am assuming it's heat related. Has anyone else dealt with this and or came up with a good solution? I was thinking about putting some kind of heat shield around the compartment the ecm is in.

 

[Admin]

 

[Adam490]

I have a 2019 pioneer 1000 5 with right at 1000 miles. If I drive for an hour straight and it's hot outside my eps light will come on, my speedometer stops working and the machine will not shift. Also there is no engine braking. The dealership won't do anything for me. They say there is nothing wrong with my machine. Its happened 3 times naturally and twice I was able to duplicate it on purpose by driving around slow for about an hour. Im hearing from others and am assuming it's heat related. Has anyone else dealt with this and or came up with a good solution? I was thinking about putting some kind of heat shield around the compartment the ecm is in.

Any codes when it happens?

 

[JakeNasty]

It gives an 11 -2 code which they said was a power steering system and it all checks good

 

[Roborlilw]

It gives an 11 -2 code which they said was a power steering system and it all checks good

I'm having the issue. Just yesterday it happened to me and this time I got a check engine light. What do we need to do to get Mother Honda work with us?

 

[HondaTech]

Interesting that both of you are from Tucson.

Did you perhaps purchase them from the same dealer?

Any electrical accessories?

 

[JakeNasty]

No we bought them from different cities and they are 3 years apart. What is the same is that when we ride when its hot out it causes the problem. Every honda will have this problem if ridding when its hot out for an hour or so straight. Especially at slower speeds. The computer gets to hot.

 

[Roborlilw]

I bought mine in Sierra Vista,Az in 2016. I have a couple of light bars hooked up to the Aux battery.
My voltage when it last happened was 13.7 volts in both Main and Aux batteries.

 

[CMB]

Radiator fan run ? If so, stand in front, make sure it not blowing out on you.

 

[Roborlilw]

Mine works correctly. I saw 3 bars at 109 degrees out at 15-20 mph yesterday but it wasn't there very long, then back to 2 bars.

 

[CMB]

I think id be looking for ground loose somewhere.

 

[Roborlilw]

I've checked all three and they were tight.

 

[JakeNasty]

It gets to hot. 170 degrees at the ecm

 

[HondaTech]

The common thread between your symptoms is vehicle speed. Also the eps computer is completely separate from the main PCM.

The code your mentioned is a failure of the eps to see vehicle speed when the engine rpms are increased. If the VSS isn't working properly then the PCM won't know when to shift and the eps motor won't be able.to reference speed for a steering assist.

On the rear diff is the VSS, id check there first for any loose connectors or melted wires. You'll most likely need to test the sensor when the unit starts exhibiting the symptoms.

I see you have the underseat storage, have you tried removing it to see if that alleviates the problem.

 

[JakeNasty]

Yeah i took the storage box out. The deership checked every sensor, wires and grounds. There has been another guy on a forum with this same issue and after 10 months in the shop they finally figured out it gets to hot in that compartment under the driver seat. I'm gonna put in a fan and some heat shield and see if it helps.

 

[Roborlilw]

Here is a video of the trouble code for my EPS. DTC 11-01 Excessive change of vehicle speed signal or 11-02 Comparison between vehicle speed and engine speed signal Pg 24-13 in service manual. ECM DTC is 67 and 81.

 

[Hawk53]

Yeah i took the storage box out. The deership checked every sensor, wires and grounds. There has been another guy on a forum with this same issue and after 10 months in the shop they finally figured out it gets to hot in that compartment under the driver seat. I'm gonna put in a fan and some heat shield and see if it helps.

I am wondering if you installed a fan and if you got positive results?

 

[Hawk53]

I am wondering if you installed a fan and if you got positive results?

 

[Roborlilw]

In my case I had installed two cheap cube LED backup lights using the OEM backup alarm connector to turn then on in reverse.
Turns out the LED lights were affecting the ground and confusing the computer, both the EPS and the ECM, (they didn't know what gear the transmission was in).
Once I disconnected the lights at the OEM connector it stopped acting up.
Of course I had already bought a new gear position switch and ECM.
I sent the ECM to Silber Turbo to get it re-flashed for lower torque. Works fine now
It seemed to act up more when it was hot or very warm outside. The Service manual helped me troubleshoot it.

 

[Herbie]

Older thread, but I just had same problem yesterday at around 9000’ on trail near Wold Creek Colorado.
loaded with 3 adults and 2 11 yr olds. Engine usually always get hot at these elevations, so I previously installed a pusher fan on front or radiator and helps tremendously. But, we had stopped for a break, and I turned fan off. As we headed back up the hill, I forgot to turn 2nd fan on. After a long, steep hill, I looked down, and both the high temp and low oil pressure lights were on, as well as 4 bars on the display. I had previously installed and in-line digital temperature readout on the radiator hose, but I think it is on return line going back to engine. Anyway, the temperature was reading 232°F (Highest I have seen it). It usually runs 190-205. I Turned the pusher radiator fan on, and stopped for a little bit, and temperature came down to normal, but took a little longer for the water temp and oil pressure lights to turn off. We turned around and headed back down the trail. I then noticed the EPS light was on, and would not shift out of first gear, either in high or low range. And then noticed the speedometer stayed on zero.
So, began heading downhill. Then noticed that when I let off the gas pedal, the transmission would into neutral, and I would coast downhill. NOT GOOD! But, if I gave it a little gas, the transmission low gear would kick in and slow me down. Now, that takes some coordinatio, to give it gas to slow down. But, after a while, I began using the brake to slow down. But that did not last long, as my brakes must have got too hot, too, and failed. I could push the brake pedal to the floor and bottomed out, and no slow down. Got interesting, to say the least, going down a steep mountail trail with not much room for error.

But, after a few minutes of more riding, and trail leveling out, the EPS light went off, the speedometer began working, the transmission began shifting, and the brakes came back. Everything was back to normal again.🤔
So made it back to trailhead safely, but wondering what the heck just happened.
I will be replacing brake fluid today after reading more about fading brakes. And after reading this post, I think there is really nothing else to do, other than remembering to turn on fan(s) when riding mountain trails.
I said ‘fan(s)’, because I had also installed a small 4” fan under the seat, next to the front drive shaft, taking air from around the front diff, under floorboard, and pushing it towards exhaust manifold area, hoping to keep engine and seat cooler. Never worked very well, but now knowing about the overheating under the seat causing the ECU to overheat, I will use it all the time.

Sorry for this long novel, but it is not something easily explained, and I had never heard of this happening before, until now.

 

[GolfCart]

Also recently had the same issue.
Engine overheated on a very long steady climb up a mountain. After cooling at top of the mtn for ~45 minutes everything was fine, but EPS light came on after descending back down mountain and transmission would not shift out of 1st gear, speedometer was reading 0 mph. There were no issues with the power steering, it was still working fine, and engine temperature was back to normal.
Stopping and shutting off the engine to let it cool helped temporarily for a while then eventually would not recover at all. Got towed 15 miles of mostly roads back to camp . After getting back to camp, I took it for a short ride down the road with no issues. By then everything had completely cooled down. Temperatures were only in the high 50's outside all day.
Next morning no longer had an issue after riding all day about 70 miles of logging roads and trails with plenty of uphill climbs.
All grounds are good, and battery is at 13.5V when running, 12.5 not running.
Only suspect is that I found that the heater was turned on without me knowing it. I had previously removed the duct work to the dash, so the heater was blowing hot air under the seat maybe causing excessive heat.
Definitely sounds like an overheat issue as others have experienced.
Question I have is, are these symptoms related? If the EPS light comes on will the ECU prevent the transmission from shifting out of 1st and cause the speedometer to not display actual mph?