P500 First Service

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Just checked in the garage its 10w-30 synthetic :(, I think it will be ok to use since I'm in colder climate
Uh oh...nah, I think your fine with that.
I'm looking at the Mobil 1 75w-90 synthetic gear oil.
Has a GL5 rating and says it performs better than
standard hypoid oil. Thoughts or concerns?
 
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Been reading up on it a bit...I think the 80w90 might be the way to go for this climate.
Honda makes a synthetic gear lube too I think?
Yeah, I forgot you're in Yankee climate lol. That's the way to do it though brother, research and then make a decision.
 
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Just checked in the garage its 10w-30 synthetic :(, I think it will be ok to use since I'm in colder climate
I agree, I think you're ok.
 
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trigger

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Yeah, I forgot you're in Yankee climate lol. That's the way to do it though brother, research and then make a decision.
Yeah, that's the way I go on just about everything. That's the beauty of this forum too,
asking what others are doing as part of my research.
Decision made, picked up Mobil 1 75w-90 today. Will be doing the service this weekend.
Didn't order any spare O rings as ehart suggested though. Hope I don't mess them up.
I only grabbed one quart of gear lube...is that enough?
 
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Yeah, that's the way I go on just about everything. That's the beauty of this forum too,
asking what others are doing as part of my research.
Decision made, picked up Mobil 1 75w-90 today. Will be doing the service this weekend.
Didn't order any spare O rings as ehart suggested though. Hope I don't mess them up.
I only grabbed one quart of gear lube...is that enough?
That's just enough. You'll be surprised in how little there is in the rear, like a small cup full! Mobil one is what I used in my diffs too. I think any good synthetic will do though. And I completely agree about the forum, many great ideas, experiences, modifications and fabrications to glean from, parts swapped and if you were a lucky one, you secured one of Chooglins glove boxes!!! Life's great for the P5 owner here.
 
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Yeah, that's the way I go on just about everything. That's the beauty of this forum too,
asking what others are doing as part of my research.
Decision made, picked up Mobil 1 75w-90 today. Will be doing the service this weekend.
Didn't order any spare O rings as ehart suggested though. Hope I don't mess them up.
I only grabbed one quart of gear lube...is that enough?
If you're careful, you'll be fine. I got them just in case. I read somewhere about a guy pinching one and leaking oil out everywhere so I figured I'd grab some. In case you don't know yet, Rocky Mountain is your friend. I order way too much crap from them. Lol. Also, check your air filter often. I keep an extra one on the bench clean and oiled so I can swap and go. You will be surprised how quickly they get dirty and it's extremely important to keep them clean and oiled.


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If you're careful, you'll be fine. I got them just in case. I read somewhere about a guy pinching one and leaking oil out everywhere so I figured I'd grab some. In case you don't know yet, Rocky Mountain is your friend. I order way too much crap from them. Lol. Also, check your air filter often. I keep an extra one on the bench clean and oiled so I can swap and go. You will be surprised how quickly they get dirty and it's extremely important to keep them clean and oiled.


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Thanks ehart...I'll check it.
And yes monte, I did get a chooglin glove box! :D
 
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Thanks ehart...I'll check it.
And yes monte, I did get a chooglin glove box! :D
Great, I'll go look at that thread to see how you finished yours.
 
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Well, that wasn't so bad. After reading the threads I thought I was in for pure hell.
Only one of the three screws was super tight, just put some ass behind it and it cut loose.
Push clips are easy with a panel tool, been using that for years on auto's.
Didn't see the O rings as being a problem, fit right where they're supposed to. Thought that spring was going to have alot of tension on it or be long, pretty easy really. Filter sitting where it does kinda sucked but... been in tighter spots. Looking in the manual, 10/30 and 10/40 have the same temperature rating...so you're fine @solrus.
Changing gear oil in differentials was simple...you do need that small hose, thanks @ehart! And one quart was plenty, thanks @monte!
You guys and this forum rock, gives you a heads up on what you're getting into.
It sounds and shifts better...wife even noticed it. Ready to rip!! :)
 
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Green with black knob. Black Honda sticker going on today.
Checked it out trigger but that pic you have posted doesn't show up real well. If you get a chance and feel like it, would you put up a better picture? Thanks man. Glad your first oil/filter change was uneventful.
 
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solrus

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Yeah, that's the way I go on just about everything. That's the beauty of this forum too,
asking what others are doing as part of my research.
Decision made, picked up Mobil 1 75w-90 today. Will be doing the service this weekend.
Didn't order any spare O rings as ehart suggested though. Hope I don't mess them up.
I only grabbed one quart of gear lube...is that enough?


In Montana colder climate, should I use then 75-140? or 75-90 for gear oil?
 
Montecresto

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In Montana colder climate, should I use then 75-140? or 75-90 for gear oil?
It's a matter of opinion in large part solrus; research multi-viscosity lubricants.
 
solrus

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Thank you! Will research also

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75w-90 IMO for colder climates. 140 will be pretty thick.
Not to disagree with your recommendation trigger, but just wanted you to know that it wouldn't be 140 in the winter. The higher number in the equation would be during the hot summer when the internal temps of the diff could make a straight 90 seem like sewing machine oil. Similar to the 10-40 engine oil you just used. The idea is that it would be at 10 during the winter for easier starts and positive lubrication once running. It would be at 40 during the hot summer. When you see 10W-40, the W stands for winter not weight as many people suppose. In multi viscosity oils, chemists add "viscosity improvers" that expand as temperatures rise, thus the heavier weight during summer.
 
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Not to disagree with your recommendation trigger, but just wanted you to know that it wouldn't be 140 in the winter. The higher number in the equation would be during the hot summer when the internal temps of the diff could make a straight 90 seem like sewing machine oil. Similar to the 10-40 engine oil you just used. The idea is that it would be at 10 during the winter for easier starts and positive lubrication once running. It would be at 40 during the hot summer. When you see 10W-40, the W stands for winter not weight as many people suppose. In multi viscosity oils, chemists add "viscosity improvers" that expand as temperatures rise, thus the heavier weight during summer.
I've never truly understood that crap. But for the sake of argument...wouldn't there be improvers in 90 to keep it 90...hmmmmo_O
 
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In Montana colder climate, should I use then 75-140? or 75-90 for gear oil?
Not to disagree with your recommendation trigger, but just wanted you to know that it wouldn't be 140 in the winter. The higher number in the equation would be during the hot summer when the internal temps of the diff could make a straight 90 seem like sewing machine oil. Similar to the 10-40 engine oil you just used. The idea is that it would be at 10 during the winter for easier starts and positive lubrication once running. It would be at 40 during the hot summer. When you see 10W-40, the W stands for winter not weight as many people suppose. In multi viscosity oils, chemists add "viscosity improvers" that expand as temperatures rise, thus the heavier weight during summer.

Multi viscosity weight oils are measured by a viscometer. The rate of flow is measured at 40°C and 100°C. Based on the flow at 40°, it's given its "winter" grade. Based on its flow at 100° it's given its high temp grade.

In an engine, typically the engine oil will reach 100°C by design. That's the way it's designed so that any moisture that gets in the oil will steam off thru the crank case vent. For differentials, it takes them a little longer to warm up obviously due to not having combustion.

This is an interesting topic though as I've not read diff case temps and I may consider that just for my own curiosity.

If you would like to read more, this would be an interesting read.

Oil education
 
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Well, that wasn't so bad. After reading the threads I thought I was in for pure hell.
Only one of the three screws was super tight, just put some ass behind it and it cut loose.
Push clips are easy with a panel tool, been using that for years on auto's.
Didn't see the O rings as being a problem, fit right where they're supposed to. Thought that spring was going to have alot of tension on it or be long, pretty easy really. Filter sitting where it does kinda sucked but... been in tighter spots. Looking in the manual, 10/30 and 10/40 have the same temperature rating...so you're fine @solrus.
Changing gear oil in differentials was simple...you do need that small hose, thanks @ehart! And one quart was plenty, thanks @monte!
You guys and this forum rock, gives you a heads up on what you're getting into.
It sounds and shifts better...wife even noticed it. Ready to rip!! :)
Very cool stuff, Trigger. As usual.

I had near 'bout decided not to do it myself, but you give me new hope.

I'd much rather do it myself. Not only to save money, but to know that it actually was DONE! I can just see those bastards saying, "That's a pita to change the filter, and how would that 1-arm old fart ever know?"

Such is my level of trust in ATV mechanics and dealers. :-(

I'm a little worried about replacing the filter assembly with one hand, a half-arm, a face, 2 knees and feet, and an obedient dog.

Sally always wants to help.
Image


You reckon I could?

Monte's idea that because the filter is too small one need not change it as often seems assbackwards to me.

Too small, change MORE often seems more logical.

Joe
 
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View attachment 17500
Very cool stuff, Trigger. As usual.

I had near 'bout decided not to do it myself, but you give me new hope.

I'd much rather do it myself. Not only to save money, but to know that it actually was DONE! I can just see those bastards saying, "That's a pita to change the filter, and how would that 1-arm old fart ever know?"

Such is my level of trust in ATV mechanics and dealers. :-(

I'm a little worried about replacing the filter assembly with one hand, a half-arm, a face, 2 knees and feet, and an obedient dog.

Sally always wants to help.View attachment 17500

You reckon I could?

Monte's idea that because the filter is too small one need not change it as often seems assbackwards to me.

Too small, change MORE often seems more logical.

Joe
Wow, doing anything with one arm seems like it would be challenging but I think you could do it. Trying to imagine myself in that situation, I think you could wedge something against the cover of the oil filter to hold it in place while you thread the bolts back in. Would probably take a custom length of something, didn't really notice if something flat was behind it but it was a fairly tight area.
Just take a good look at it before attempting it. And yes, I agree with your logic of a small filter...
Texas is a little far for me or I'd offer to help a brother out. Might be worth the trip to hang with Sally though, definitely mans best friend!
 
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