Flyback diodes and blown out rocker switches

Remington

Remington

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Anyone installed a flyback diode on there master relay.
Stinger or other?

Anyone ran into any issues with voltage spikes in relation to this?

Thanks.

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Nope but I deal with those buggers in Standby Generators. They like to go bad often if that helps.
 
Hondasxs

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I have a switch that keep blowing out for no known reason. I think installing a flyback diode at the relay may prevent this.
But I don't know enough about this method.

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bumperm

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For those who may be less than conversant with things electronic, here's what they are talking about.

When voltage is applied to the coil of a relay, current flows through the windings that cause magnetic lines of flux to radiate from the coil wires which causes a magnetic field (the windings on the coil are designed in such a way to cause these lines of flux to be additive). The core of the windings then becomes a magnet as long as there's current flow through it. When voltage is removed, these lines of flux collapse back and as they do so, they pass through other coil windings to causes an "inductive kick" or voltage spike to be generated that can be many times the voltage of the original voltage source (often thousands of volts, but with relatively low current capacity). This inductive kick can travel back down wiring to cause arcing at the switch contacts and to sometimes do damage to sensitive components, or to shock you if you happen to be touching the contacts.

Placing a simple rectifier diode across the coil contacts (in a reverse direction to the normal relay coil current flow - i.e. with the banded or negative diode lead to the positive relay coil terminal etc.) will suppress (short out) the inductive kick.
 
Tramguage1

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Most relay coils in my industry use diodes in parallel with the coil.
What's the ampere draw on the switch?

Screenshot 20220828 003057 Samsung Internet
 
Hondasxs

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TripleB

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One of these type.
Switch is just controlling it so should be in the MA usage range.
Issues is that it blowes out the LED's on the switch after some short use.


View attachment 351000

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I guess this is why all my LED lights on my switches don't work in the off position anymore. I bought replacement lights a year ago and haven't fooled with replacing them. All my LED switch lights work in the on position. I have all OTRATTW switches.
 
Hondasxs

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I guess this is why all my LED lights on my switches don't work in the off position anymore. I bought replacement lights a year ago and haven't fooled with replacing them. All my LED switch lights work in the on position. I have all OTRATTW switches.
Could be. But hard pressed to see it affecting them all. Especially if they all went out at the exact same time. If they did. Then it's something else.

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JenElio

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I guess this is why all my LED lights on my switches don't work in the off position anymore. I bought replacement lights a year ago and haven't fooled with replacing them. All my LED switch lights work in the on position. I have all OTRATTW switches.
🤔.......I've seen that spaghetti bowl under your hood, looks like mine NoMo!!!!😂 Did they ever work or have they been off from day 1?
 
JenElio

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Believe it or not they all worked at 1 time lol
Huh, how hard is it to swap out one of them L.E.Ds out? Maybe just try one and see if it holds up a while before changing them all out and the issue is something like what they talking about with the voltage kick backs 🤷‍♂️
 
TripleB

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Huh, how hard is it to swap out one of them L.E.Ds out? Maybe just try one and see if it holds up a while before changing them all out and the issue is something like what they talking about with the voltage kick backs 🤷‍♂️
I'm just too lazy to fix something that still half ass works.
 
Hondasxs

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And....
Today I have a second customer with the same issue.
This guy is controlling a Stinger brand relay.
The first one was for a Cole Hersee.

I have sent them both diodes to install as pictured.
*crude example shown*
20220901 125248
 
Hillbillytnt

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You guys are getting me all paranoid I just went to check to make sure none of the lights on my switches are blown. All are good. I’ve seen this discussion before. I don’t seem to have this problem or haven’t so far. I’m running a stinger feeding my 2nd fuse box. I controlled it with carling 7 pin for awhile then moved up to a master switch from the club store. My electrical skills are basic at best so just can’t figure why it hasn’t shown in mine.
 
Hondasxs

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You guys are getting me all paranoid I just went to check to make sure none of the lights on my switches are blown. All are good. I’ve seen this discussion before. I don’t seem to have this problem or haven’t so far. I’m running a stinger feeding my 2nd fuse box. I controlled it with carling 7 pin for awhile then moved up to a master switch from the club store. My electrical skills are basic at best so just can’t figure why it hasn’t shown in mine.
I don't know.
I haven't had this happen until recently.
I'll know more when I get them returned.

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bumperm

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And....
Today I have a second customer with the same issue.
This guy is controlling a Stinger brand relay.
The first one was for a Cole Hersee.

I have sent them both diodes to install as pictured.
*crude example shown*
View attachment 351713

This is the fix that's needed to protect the LED's in the switches. The "flyback" or reverse polarity diode serves to clamp the high voltage spike (often thousands of volts) that occurs when power is removed from the relay coil (i.e. relay is de-energized). Otherwise this pulse can go back towards the power supply (fuse block etc) and be felt on other sensitive electronics. Note that it is a very high voltage, but with very low current capability . . . this means it won't blow regular fuses, nor will normally injure a person.

It is wise to use such flyback diodes on relays.
 
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