P1000 Frame crossmember bent

J

JTW

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Guys.. (specifically @Tramguage1) I had the aluminum skids on mine and they did the job but the issue isn’t the skid. The issue is the spand is too great to support all the weight of the machine in a hard hit. I don’t think there is currently a skid plate option out there that won’t allow deflection for the amount of span. It plain and simply needs more support. This was a large reason for me building a one piece 1/2 uhmw skid.
 
Tramguage1

Tramguage1

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Need to do some more research, aluminum comes in many different tensile strengths. Maybe a different grade is needed.i do believe the aluminum may help a little with heat dissipation.
 
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ToddACimer

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Guys.. (specifically @Tramguage1) I had the aluminum skids on mine and they did the job but the issue isn’t the skid. The issue is the spand is too great to support all the weight of the machine in a hard hit. I don’t think there is currently a skid plate option out there that won’t allow deflection for the amount of span. It plain and simply needs more support. This was a large reason for me building a one piece 1/2 uhmw skid.
This is 100% my thought as well. The span between the crossmembers doesnt carry the load if you're riding the belly of the machine.
 
Tramguage1

Tramguage1

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They are.. or build a one piece 1/2 uhmw.
If I go plastic I will follow your lead and build my own. I have a couple local plastic suppliers here in town.
So may contact you and see what NOT to do.
 
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Cuoutdoors

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If I go plastic I will follow your lead and build my own. I have a couple local plastic suppliers here in town.
So may contact you and see what NOT to do.
Uh he copied my 1/2" plate. I have the measurements for ya.....and I copied Todd's 3/8" plate.

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Cuoutdoors

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I had added the TA full skids to my 700 before I traded it. I liked them ,just not sure they are the best for my application.
The aluminum skid is OK but its not great. What about your application makes you prefer a center aluminum skid and not a full UHMW skid?

We went all the same places at Royal blue. I sure am glad I had the full UHMW skid. Honestly I think I have noticed the biggest difference when going up hill and hitting the skid. It slides so much easier and seems to go up-and-over obstacles in 2 wheel drive much easier.

I'll be honest I was never too worried about getting a skid until the 1st overland trip i beat the piss out of my rub rails


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Gator

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I don't own a 1000.
I don't work for Honda.
But.... I play engineer at work during the day. (Don't ask me about my night job)

Looks to me Honda did the typical "minimum effective design". It will work fine until it hits a rock.

That said, I'm thinking that replacing the cross member with a box member about the same dimensions would help. It would be laying on it's side (in the weak axis) but what the hell.

Even though aluminum or plastic skid pans don't offer any bending strength, both will distribute the load and help preserve the cross members (especially if you haven't already wrecked them). Kinda like laying a sheet of plywood on the roof to walk on.

BTW: same design problems in pulling these things out of the mud/craters. I tore my frame just tugging it backward by the trailer hitch.
 
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E

Ericthered

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Has anyone used their old plastic skid plate as a stencil on a 3/16 STEEL skid plate ? Seems to me the steel would dent, but not crush in. And the cross supports, as weak as they are would benefit from a strong belly pan. Can't be that much heavier or harder to cut. I'd also eliminate all holes except 3 service locations and the bolt holes to minimize sticks and brush from getting anywhere close to hot components. Let me know what you think. I'm going to source some metal on Tuesday. Eric in Reno
 
ToddACimer

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Has anyone used their old plastic skid plate as a stencil on a 3/16 STEEL skid plate ? Seems to me the steel would dent, but not crush in. And the cross supports, as weak as they are would benefit from a strong belly pan. Can't be that much heavier or harder to cut. I'd also eliminate all holes except 3 service locations and the bolt holes to minimize sticks and brush from getting anywhere close to hot components. Let me know what you think. I'm going to source some metal on Tuesday. Eric in Reno

If you're going to make it out of steel, make sure you keep all the stock holes. These machines can use all the under belly ventilation you can get. I ran my new skid plate without holes and it was really hot compared to stock. Putting the holes back in helped a lot
 
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ohanacreek

ohanacreek

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Has anyone used their old plastic skid plate as a stencil on a 3/16 STEEL skid plate ? Seems to me the steel would dent, but not crush in. And the cross supports, as weak as they are would benefit from a strong belly pan. Can't be that much heavier or harder to cut. I'd also eliminate all holes except 3 service locations and the bolt holes to minimize sticks and brush from getting anywhere close to hot components. Let me know what you think. I'm going to source some metal on Tuesday. Eric in Reno

Half in UHMW will be better than 3/16 steel and probably weigh less.

There’s someone who made a template on the forum but i can’t remember who at the moment.
 
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Baldeagle

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I have skid plated quite a few quads and UTVs. Also have used them in some very punishing terrain. Climbing over logs stumps and boulders. I will no longer take a stock unit and skid plate anywhere other than the shop to install a custom skid plate.
If you start with what you have to make a template that works best then some good old duct tape and cardboard to add the addition that you should have. That done remove the existing skip plate with cardboard and you have a great template to get going.
1/2 inch uhmw is the best product to use. As it slides over everything whereas aluminum is more expensive and sticks to everything. With aluminum all your bolt are sticking down, whereas with uhmw you can countersink all of your bolts with a forstner bit so the don’t catch on anything.
Don’t forget to extend the uhmw out the side to provide great nerf bars.
Hope this helps.
I’ve had great success with 1/2 uhmw.
The main reason that I have built my own for a while now is because I was not satisfied with any I could find in the marketplace. They put too many drain holes in them and cut them in too many pieces for ease of installation and I think it probably reduces their material cost.
The fewer joints in the skid place the fewer weak spots.



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Smitty335

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I have skid plated quite a few quads and UTVs. Also have used them in some very punishing terrain. Climbing over logs stumps and boulders. I will no longer take a stock unit and skid plate anywhere other than the shop to install a custom skid plate.
If you start with what you have to make a template that works best then some good old duct tape and cardboard to add the addition that you should have. That done remove the existing skip plate with cardboard and you have a great template to get going.
1/2 inch uhmw is the best product to use. As it slides over everything whereas aluminum is more expensive and sticks to everything. With aluminum all your bolt are sticking down, whereas with uhmw you can countersink all of your bolts with a forstner bit so the don’t catch on anything.
Don’t forget to extend the uhmw out the side to provide great nerf bars.
Hope this helps.
I’ve had great success with 1/2 uhmw.
The main reason that I have built my own for a while now is because I was not satisfied with any I could find in the marketplace. They put too many drain holes in them and cut them in too many pieces for ease of installation and I think it probably reduces their material cost.
The fewer joints in the skid place the fewer weak spots.



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And shipping cost.
 
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Cuoutdoors

Cuoutdoors

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Half in UHMW will be better than 3/16 steel and probably weigh less.

There’s someone who made a template on the forum but i can’t remember who at the moment.
I've got measurements

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