P1000 Frame crossmember bent

[jmcampbell54]

Guess I need to check my LE with factory aluminum skids.

Especially if your following me!


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[Admin]

 

[Ericthered]

I constantly smash sage brush. (no way around it). So I want to minimize the holes for brush to enter hot area of engine. Last trip my passengers were sure we were on fire. Burning dust smelled pretty bad. Don't want to start a range fire, so what's the best option? I will probably never bash too many rocks, just bushes. Will have to see the plastic ones to see if they are strong enough. Once I see the prices I will replace the pitiful factory with a new one.

 

[ToddACimer]

I constantly smash sage brush. (no way around it). So I want to minimize the holes for brush to enter hot area of engine. Last trip my passengers were sure we were on fire. Burning dust smelled pretty bad. Don't want to start a range fire, so what's the best option? I will probably never bash too many rocks, just bushes. Will have to see the plastic ones to see if they are strong enough. Once I see the prices I will replace the pitiful factory with a new one.

I've found with grass, leaves and brush (and even mud and rocks) they will always get above skid plates and into crevices. I'd rather have holes for washing it out and on this machine for venting heat than trying to completely seal it up.

 

[Smitty335]

I constantly smash sage brush. (no way around it). So I want to minimize the holes for brush to enter hot area of engine. Last trip my passengers were sure we were on fire. Burning dust smelled pretty bad. Don't want to start a range fire, so what's the best option? I will probably never bash too many rocks, just bushes. Will have to see the plastic ones to see if they are strong enough. Once I see the prices I will replace the pitiful factory with a new one.

Run a high speed front mount brush hog????????????? HA!

 

[ohanacreek]

Ground-Driven Mower Made From Car Axle

 

[Smitty335]

Run a high speed front mount brush hog????????????? HA!

That would work. I don't think we are giving him the recommendations he was looking for

 

[Smitty335]

Ground-Driven Mower Made From Car Axle

Just check rotation of drive with your blade cut edge.

 

[Kane1000]

Here is what we did to 3 machines, the cross members were all but touching the motor. We pulled them back down and welded 1" square tube 3/16" wall in the crossmember. We also added a 3rd removable crossmember in front of the transmission.

I saw in @ToddACimer post about his bent crossmember and his adding an additional brace. I pulled my skids to get ready for my trip to royal blue in a few days and found mine were also bent/bowed. I used my truck as an anchor and my lift to bow them back. I have 1/2" uhmw skid plate covering the entire bottom similar to his 3/8". I don't have any impressive stories or pictures of his stump escapade to go with it either. I can't recall being hung up on anything. I'm wondering if alot of guys are seeing this same issue?
I have some 1" square SS tubing leftover as well as 1" schedule 40 black pipe, but the clearances under the engine are tight for additional bracing.

I'm looking for ideas and this place is the greatest for that.
I'll be checking mine when I get back from Royal blue and see how bad it looks again.

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[ToddACimer]

Here is what we did to 3 machines, the cross members were all but touching the motor. We pulled them back down and welded 1" square tube 3/16" wall in the crossmember. We also added a 3rd removable crossmember in front of the transmission.




View attachment 86106 View attachment 86107 View attachment 86108 View attachment 86109

Nice! The crossmembers look beefed up. I added a 3rd crossmember ahead of the sub transmission on my machine as well

 

[Firemedic530]

I went ahead and welded the 1" square tubing I had into the cross members and added 1 in front of the sub trans. I left the bottom open on the 2 I added so the water and dirt will drain. It's stainless steel and also 3/16" wall thickness. I went ahead and welded the extra as well because it's easy to cut out if necessary.

I found out the P1K5 sits comfortably on the tailgate also.

 

[JTW]

I went ahead and welded the 1" square tubing I had into the cross members and added 1 in front of the sub trans. I left the bottom open on the 2 I added so the water and dirt will drain. It's stainless steel and also 3/16" wall thickness. I went ahead and welded the extra as well because it's easy to cut out if necessary.

I found out the P1K5 sits comfortably on the tailgate also.

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You needed stainless to the frame??

 

[ToddACimer]

You needed stainless to the frame??

Stainless wouldn't have been my first choice of material either. It's very difficult to create a structural weld joint between stainless and mild steel since the 2 materials require such a difference in temperature to weld. If you really used 3/16" stainless it's unlikely you welded the joint properly without overheating the thin frame crossmembers and creating a brittle joint. Likewise if you welded into the frame crossmember you probably don't have much for penetration in the stainless. Steel tubing would have been a better choice but that's just my opinion.

 

[JTW]

Stainless wouldn't have been my first choice of material either. It's very difficult to create a structural weld joint between stainless and mild steel since the 2 materials require such a difference in temperature to weld. If you really used 3/16" stainless it's unlikely you welded the joint properly without overheating the thin frame crossmembers and creating a brittle joint. Likewise if you welded into the frame crossmember you probably don't have much for penetration in the stainless. Steel tubing would have been a better choice but that's just my opinion.

I really didn’t think they would stick together.

 

[Firemedic530]

I concentrated the heat on the ss and then feathered into the frame. I wouldn't have bought ss to do this project, but I had it. I've mixed metals on other projects with good results and figured that at least the new pieces wouldn't rust. Lol
My frame was surprisingly still straight after going up dragons back twice and down widowmaker once. We slid on the skid plate quite a bit. I figured while it was apart for cleaning I'd go ahead and give it a little more strength.

I was surprised at how much rust is starting to show around the stock welds and in the tubing. I rattle canned everything with rust converting primer and then paint. I know it was a waste of time, but I felt better. I'm going to be cleaning this deep at least 2-3 times a year.

 

[LarryAmboy]

It’s too bad that someone hasn’t come out with a one piece chrome moly frame that you could replace the stock frame with.


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[Smitty335]

I went ahead and welded the 1" square tubing I had into the cross members and added 1 in front of the sub trans. I left the bottom open on the 2 I added so the water and dirt will drain. It's stainless steel and also 3/16" wall thickness. I went ahead and welded the extra as well because it's easy to cut out if necessary.

I found out the P1K5 sits comfortably on the tailgate also.

View attachment 86322 View attachment 86323 View attachment 86324

Looks good!

 

[ohanacreek]

It’s too bad that someone hasn’t come out with a one piece chrome moly frame that you could replace the stock frame with.


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That’d be an incredibly insane amount of work to move everything over

 

[Baldeagle]

I'm running 1/2 inch skids and usually use the belly while crossing logs, thanks for the heads up!

If you build your own out of 1/2 UHMW you can build the middle section out of a single piece and limit the number of holes for stuff to get in and catch. Make sure you extend the plate a couple inches outside the frame on each side. Then build your side plates, they will go above the center plate rest against the side of the frame. Also extend the side plates an inch or so outside the tube rub rails. That way when you are going around a tree, rock or other obstacle the skid plate transfers the force directly to the frame and not onto the small mounting bolts. Mine works great and use it in very rough terrain. A good idea if you are building your own is to not use self tapping screws where you are adding bolt but to use rivnuts. Have fun.


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[ToddACimer]

I welded my frame gussets in a few weeks back. I used the RuffStuff tube gussets. They are formed 3/16" steel and sold in 4ft lengths. You need 2 27" pieces so you'll have to buy 2.



Test fitting the material, really nice fit.



4 post lift makes the job a bit easier. The paint finish isn't perfect since I was in a bit of a hurry but the skid plate mounts to them anyway. I did pre-paint and mask the gussets before welding so the insides are painted but obviously a bit of paint got burned off in the welding process.

Stood up


These are the pieces cut to length and clamped in place

Welded and paint roughed up. I also have a 3rd crossmember


Painted. Good enough for the abuse it's going to take


I'd call it flush with the bottom of the frame so it wont add any bow to my 3/8" UHMW skid plate

 

[JTW]

I welded my frame gussets in a few weeks back. I used the RuffStuff tube gussets. They are formed 3/16" steel and sold in 4ft lengths. You need 2 27" pieces so you'll have to buy 2.

View attachment 115698

Test fitting the material, really nice fit.

View attachment 115699

4 post lift makes the job a bit easier. The paint finish isn't perfect since I was in a bit of a hurry but the skid plate mounts to them anyway. I did pre-paint and mask the gussets before welding so the insides are painted but obviously a bit of paint got burned off in the welding process.

Stood up
View attachment 115710
View attachment 115711
These are the pieces cut to length and clamped in place
View attachment 115712
Welded and paint roughed up. I also have a 3rd crossmember

View attachment 115713
Painted. Good enough for the abuse it's going to take
View attachment 115714

I'd call it flush with the bottom of the frame so it wont add any bow to my 3/8" UHMW skid plate

View attachment 115700

I went to order some but the $20 shipping pissed me off and I closed the window