P500 Fuel Gauge Always Full!!

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AZdonW

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Unplugging the electric going to the fuel pump and fuel sensor did not work. The gauge still shows full. I have heard some people say that the float may be stuck against the sidewall of the gas tank. So I filled it back with gas hoping that if it was stuck that it would fix itself. I don't know if that fixed it yet as I have not burned enough gas to see if it drops the bar. Buying a Honda fuel gauge and fuel pump assembly is $204. However, I find the same part number, probably with a different manufacturer for as low as $33 on eBay, and $80 on Amazon. If they only work for 2 years, I think I'm going to buy the $33 one. It looks very simple to remove the old fuel pump and install a new one.
How do you replace those parts?
 
DRZRon1

DRZRon1

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While I'm one of those who thinks ethanol sucks donkey dik, no matter how much a float might swell up, there's no way that can make it read full all the time. Pull the pump assembly, turn the key on, and run the float arm through its travel; if that doesn't show varying fuel levels, then that rheostat/resistor is defective. I'd have no problem believing that ethanol killed the electrics though.
once it is out - should be able to ohm out the rheostat when moving the arm - bend wiper back in, wire fell, off, put float back on, lol.....

its a tried and true design

may want to wait before buying the whole assembly
 
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CID

CID

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Never mind, here's a good video:
P1000 fuel pump replace
Being fairly new to SxSs, I thought that was a pretty good video. The only problem I had was at about 8 minutes when he was wiping things down and didn't follow it with a good blowing off; we know he had an air supply. Wiping things off only stirs up debris and air pressure would have blown crap out of the area. If you're doing your own work, you should have an air compressor and a welder. :cool:
 
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AZdonW

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once it is out - should be able to ohm out the rheostat when moving the arm - bend wiper back in, wire fell, off, put float back on, lol.....

its a tried and true design

may want to wait before buying the whole assembly
How do you know what pins to ohm out for the rheostat?
 
DRZRon1

DRZRon1

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How do you know what pins to ohm out for the rheostat?
hi - look up rheostat on google to familiarize yourself with what it is - it is just a variable resistor - the resistance value as it changes is indicative to fuel level in theory.

if you put a meter across the outside ends of the resistor - it will give you some ohm value - if it doesn't - the resistor wire is broken and kinda screwed.

if you put a meter on one end of the resistor and the wiper wire and you move the float arm up and down you should see the ohm value increase\decrease - remember since its a long lever arm a little movement of the float end goes a long way in changing the ohm value

you should be able to disconnect the plug going to the fuel pump and level gauge - technically you should be able to short out the wires going to the machine ecm for fuel level and that would technically change the machine display and go from full to empty by the jumper - but lets not go nuts here for now.

I kinda prefer to work from actual data and not guess - so my recommendation is first get assembly out, see if there is an obvious issue and go from there.

you can always DM and we can swap phone numbers and I am more than willing to speak\facetime and lets get his troubleshot
 
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AZdonW

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Well I got all the hoses and connector off...but I can't budge the big retainer ring. I'm using a crowbar and a sledgehammer on the notches on the outside of that ring. Not a budge. Any ideas?
Wait, I used a big screwdriver with the sledge and got a better angle on it. Success!
 
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AZdonW

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Wait, I used a big screwdriver with the sledge and got a better angle on it. Success!
Well I removed the pump/sending unit. Float did not appear to be stuck up as I removed it. I measured ohms from 700 to 20 as the float pivoted. That's about right for what I read elsewhere. So I reinstalled everything, and voila! It works now. No idea why. One thing I'm not impressed with is that retainer ring--a b*tch to get off AND back on.
 
Mopower58

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Well I removed the pump/sending unit. Float did not appear to be stuck up as I removed it. I measured ohms from 700 to 20 as the float pivoted. That's about right for what I read elsewhere. So I reinstalled everything, and voila! It works now. No idea why. One thing I'm not impressed with is that retainer ring--a b*tch to get off AND back on.
Congrats on fixing it. Rings are easy, in some automotive applications they have a large plastic retainer similar to a nut with female threads on it. They can be a pain the the butt sometimes.
 
DRZRon1

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awesome - glad it’s working for ya
 
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