P1000 Hand Winch vs Electric???

Bighat

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If you are going to use old school cable, use one of these for everyone's safety.
I'm thinking about carrying two cinder blocks for a damper. Just kidding. Do you think those things really work with 4 to 5000 lb. of force? I don't know. I'd think you'd a lot of weight and something closer to the hook end if I'm at the rig end. I see one guy do a test on recovery straps and 4000 lb. break and the only thing that worked was 3/8" chain wrap around the end need the hook. Take a look:
 
bumperm

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You can use the winch with wire rope to begin with, but you'll need to swap out the roller type fairlead to the aluminum version plain version when you switch to synthetic line, as the boogered up (rough) rollers would trash the synthetic line in short order. The two shortcomings of synthetic are UV damage and susceptibility to abrasion damage. Otherwise synthetic is better in most every way.
 
Smitty335

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I'm thinking about carrying two cinder blocks for a damper. Just kidding. Do you think those things really work with 4 to 5000 lb. of force? I don't know. I'd think you'd a lot of weight and something closer to the hook end if I'm at the rig end. I see one guy do a test on recovery straps and 4000 lb. break and the only thing that worked was 3/8" chain wrap around the end need the hook. Take a look:
The remote looks better all the time! HA!
 
Bighat

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While I got you guys here. I need to buy some tree saver straps. I'm not sure what size to go with. I live in Southern Ohio and could be in WV and KY on rides. What I mean is, we got some pretty big timber is some areas. Got any ideas?
 
Smitty335

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While I got you guys here. I need to buy some tree saver straps. I'm not sure what size to go with. I live in Southern Ohio and could be in WV and KY on rides. What I mean is, we got some pretty big timber is some areas. Got any ideas?
I've got a pretty big one but if the tree is huge I'll loop my snatch rope through the tree saver ends and use a soft shackle to attach to the winch line. Check out the soft shackle and snatch block for synthetic rope, pretty cool! The snatch block is just a little grooved wheel.
 
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Biteme

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My Warn 4500 has wire and and a plug in remote, no dash toggle. The plugin is in the glove box, which I don't like. I bet you could wire it to a toggle. When I first saw the synthetic rope I was skeptical, and it proved out and is a lot safer than cable, if it snaps / breaks during a pull it loses energy really fast and causes less injuries. So I'm going to try a synthetic for the first time. The fairlead for a cable has rollers, the fairlead for synthetic is just a smooth oblong device for the rope to guide through.
Mounted my plug in in front of the windshield so I can operate while standing in front of my machine, makes guiding the cable easier, will probably change to a synthetic rope later as I have broken the cable once.
 
Biteme

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I'm thinking about carrying two cinder blocks for a damper. Just kidding. Do you think those things really work with 4 to 5000 lb. of force? I don't know. I'd think you'd a lot of weight and something closer to the hook end if I'm at the rig end. I see one guy do a test on recovery straps and 4000 lb. break and the only thing that worked was 3/8" chain wrap around the end need the hook. Take a look:
Yeah....but the guy talks funny!!!
 
Mopower58

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I'm thinking about carrying two cinder blocks for a damper. Just kidding. Do you think those things really work with 4 to 5000 lb. of force? I don't know. I'd think you'd a lot of weight and something closer to the hook end if I'm at the rig end. I see one guy do a test on recovery straps and 4000 lb. break and the only thing that worked was 3/8" chain wrap around the end need the hook. Take a look:
That's a lot of straps and snatch blocks. Hopefully you don't ever need all that equipment. I noticed the winch cable never broke. I'm like @Smitty335. Use the remote and be far away!
 
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So I know a lot of people said you do not need an AUX battery but in my experience a large winch can kill the puny battery the OEMs put in UTVs. I had a rhino (my Pioneer is new to me in 2021) and I could kill the stock battery in the rhino after only plowing half of my driveway. I would at minimum add on a small 33Ah garden tractor battery, small easy to fit in and as long as its a similar age as the stock battery you could just hard wire it in parallel. Cheap insurance if you really get stuck or if its cold and wont start.
 
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Bighat

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So I know a lot of people said you do not need an AUX battery but in my experience a large winch can kill the puny battery the OEMs put in UTVs. I had a rhino (my Pioneer is new to me in 2021) and I could kill the stock battery in the rhino after only plowing half of my driveway. I would at minimum add on a small 33Ah garden tractor battery, small easy to fit in and as long as its a similar age as the stock battery you could just hard wire it in series. Cheap insurance if you really get stuck or if its cold and wont start.
I think your right from everything read.
 
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Smitty335

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I think your right from everything read.
Might want to look a little farther into it, the P1's won't run right with low voltage, I believe you need to isolate the batteries from each other, that way if you drain the aux battery, it won't affect the primary battery voltage. Check out the Club Store and look at the TRU isolator kit, comes with every thing you will need and detailed instructions. If I can install it anyone can and no I don't work for the Club Store. And it's not an arm and a leg cost wise.
 
Bighat

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Might want to look a little farther into it, the P1's won't run right with low voltage, I believe you need to isolate the batteries from each other, that way if you drain the aux battery, it won't affect the primary battery voltage. Check out the Club Store and look at the TRU isolator kit, comes with every thing you will need and detailed instructions. If I can install it anyone can and no I don't work for the Club Store. And it's not an arm and a leg cost wise.
I think if I need a second battery I'm goning with a switch like one in a boat or RV where I can choose what battery I want to charger or use both batteries to start with is real cold. Trickle charge at night. I use my rig when it's 0 and below outside, and that's when I need it most. I run cattle and in the winter I like to heat and a cab and it must start. No if it doen't starts. Because if it don't, I'm having a bad day. And a cold one.
 
Smitty335

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I think if I need a second battery I'm goning with a switch like one in a boat or RV where I can choose what battery I want to charger or use both batteries to start with is real cold. Trickle charge at night. I use my rig when it's 0 and below outside, and that's when I need it most. I run cattle and in the winter I like to heat and a cab and it must start. No if it starts. Because if it don't, I'm having a bad day. And a cold one.
HA! Still might be worth your time to do a little research? We convinced you to give up the come along theory, just one more step and you will be there! HA! I'm just razing you, but I believe it would be in your best interests to do the isolator, probably cheaper than the switch, your surely haired over and can make your own decisions.That's old school sayin, wouldn't you say? HA! Happy Trails and fence line cleaning.
 
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Bighat

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HA! Still might be worth your time to do a little research?
I'm talking about a switch. Your talking about something that an can go out. If I have a battery meter and voltmeter I can tell what's up with the batterys. The main starting battery would be my main concern if I'm far from home and so I would have the winch on the Aux battery. Don't get me wrong, to do this you would need and battery meter and voltmeter for each battery to know where your at. But I like manual, hands on. I use to work with computers and network systems and I know how everything is auto now. But you know what, auto doesn't always work and devices fail. I'm just hardcore old school on something. Nothing wrong with checking your oil, watching you gauges and turning a knob every now and then.
 
bumperm

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I would at minimum add on a small 33Ah garden tractor battery, small easy to fit in and as long as its a similar age as the stock battery you could just hard wire it in series.

Umm, I don't think you want to wire a second battery in series. Doing that will give you a 24 volt system. It'll work just great for maybe a second or two . . . they you'll be testing for smoke!!

You meant hard wire it in parallel, I'm sure. And I strongly recommend against that unless the battery is *exactly* the same as the original battery, not just the same age. It also should be the same brand and size - in other words, identical. Even then I would not recommend that. Better, from a redundancy perspective, to use a True isolator etc. and have a main and aux battery if that's what you want to do.
 
Smitty335

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Umm, I don't think you want to wire a second battery in series. Doing that will give you a 24 volt system. It'll work just great for maybe a second or two . . . they you'll be testing for smoke!!

You meant hard wire it in parallel, I'm sure. And I strongly recommend against that unless the battery is *exactly* the same as the original battery, not just the same age. It also should be the same brand and size - in other words, identical. Even then I would not recommend that. Better, from a redundancy perspective, to use a True isolator etc. and have a main and aux battery if that's what you want to do.
Thank You, I've had my Isolator in for five years, 0 issues.
 
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Bighat

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Thank You, I've had my Isolator in for five years, 0 issues.
I'm not saying they don't work and work great. I guess I may be a control freak. I like knowing what's going on. But on the things a mention about needing it is the cold is I can use both batteries to help start it. That's the main reason I like the switch is because I use it everyday, no matter how cold in may be out side. Nothing sucks more in the winter when it won't start and you need it. I plug my tractor in on a timer. I've been looking into a heater of the coolant line for when it get real cold.
 
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Smitty335

Smitty335

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I not say they don't work and work great. I guess I may be a control freak. I like knowing what's going on. But on the things a mention about needing it is the cold is I can use both batteries to help start it. That's the main reason I like the switch is because I use it everyday, no matter how cold in may be out side. Nothing sucks more in the winter when it won't start and you need it. I plug my tractor in on a timer. I've been looking into a heater of the coolant line for when it get real cold.
Do you have a shop to keep it in? If you do put trickle charger on the primary and forget it, do some reading on how the isolator works, it's basically a check valve for the electrical system. Unless you have completely exhausted the aux battery you will never need to charge it directly if you leave your machine running while winching and you run the winch and all accessories off of the aux battery. I do run voltage meters for both batteries so I can monitor what's going on with voltage in both batteries separately.
 
StewB

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I bought my rig last year and needed to deal with extra power for pretty much the opposite reason. I don't use it everyday, and it sometimes sits in a cold, northern Utah garage for three-four weeks without starting. If I know it will be a while, I use a trickle charger on the primary battery. But I sometimes forget and then I show up and start plowing, which hits the battery.

In making my decision I read a bunch of the helpful comments on this site and chose the True Isolator ($129 with dual voltmeter kit) and a Might Max second battery. I'm a desk jockey with passing wiring skills. It was simple, even without resorting to YouTube. I've never had a problem and the isolator has a circuit to bypass if you need to. It was my preference to keep the accessories on the second battery, not the main.

Switching between two different batteries will work. I know what Bumpern is getting at is that two batteries in parallel will detract from each other unless they are essentially identical in age and make. Basically, the weaker battery in parallel will drain the stronger one. An A or B battery switch will avoid the parasite drain, but you'll need to make sure your trickle charger works for both batteries. Good luck. 👍
 
Bighat

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Hey, Smitty where do you ride?
What part of the countryy?
Do you have a shop to keep it in? If you do put trickle charger on the primary and forget it, do some reading on how the isolator works, it's basically a check valve for the electrical system. Unless you have completely exhausted the aux battery you will never need to charge it directly if you leave your machine running while winching and you run the winch and all accessories off of the aux battery. I do run voltage meters for both batteries so I can monitor what's going on with voltage in both batteries separately.
I have a shop but it's to far from the house but I have a large carport with a plug in where I can plug it in and my truck if needed. I've looked at the islolator but just like my pickup, two batteries are better than one. Double the cranks. It's been -37 twice. That's not common, but it happens. The house is a good ways from the barn and garge and I like to have it right outside the door so I can warm it up. I've got several barns and two garges, that's why I a built a carport on the house. I'm paying enough property taxes.
 
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