Here is what I did I'll put together and see what happens
So it's all back together and there is no improvement, actually its worse. Yesterday the voltmeter read 6v today it doesn't even light up when I measure an aux output I get 3v. There is 12v at the input, 12v at key on power. I'm guessing the relays are toast. So order a new board or get new relays?
Hondasxs
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Doubtful SSV will sell you a board.. 100% sure Honda won't.
Ya, relays are your gatekeepers.
If you do some more testing. I'd love to know what each does. Feel like at least one is dedicated to the wiper port. Thinking the other 2 are split between the other ports.
Good job poking around. Lol.
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I'd take apart a relay or two and look see. It sounds like you're a techy type and know what you're doing, but here's what I'd do. Spray, brush or wipe on a light coat of WD-40 or similar oil (any oil will do)on the solder side of the board and in the direction you want to blow/remove solder (the oil will keep molten solder from sticking to board), heat the relay pin solder pads to melt the solder one at a time, as each melts blow (with compressed air) or brush (not as good as the air but works) away the solder. The relay will come right off the board. Then you can probably/maybe pry off the plastic cover to clean relay contacts. As you surmised, the relays may not be all that well sealed (most aren't).
Another option, if it's basically just a plain relay/fuse board (no electronics), and with board removed from sxs, you should be able to apply 12 VDC to relay coil and measure the contact resistance with your ohm meter (which should be zero ohms of course).
Another option, if it's basically just a plain relay/fuse board (no electronics), and with board removed from sxs, you should be able to apply 12 VDC to relay coil and measure the contact resistance with your ohm meter (which should be zero ohms of course).
Neohio
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I would remove the relays and source new ones locally. I think they were electronic places in Hamilton or Toronto a few years back. Or might be able to ebay some replacements.
Scoop
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"They had to replace my metal plate with a plastic one. Every time Catherine would rev up the microwave, I'd wet my pants and forget who I was for about half an hour." - Cousin Eddie, National Lampoon's Christmas Vacation.
No idea why what you wrote made me think of that line.
I did a little surgery and removed the tops of the relays One does not close when the key on power is applied. I have to check continuity on the contacts of the other two. I'm thinking of getting a three pack of waterproof automotive SPDT relays from Amazon and making my own harness to connect them to the board
Sounds like a plan. While your at it, if the board doesn't have back EMF diodes, you might want to add one across the relay's two coil contacts (banded end of diode goes to positive). Cheap insurance.
H
HondaTech
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Just an FYI, any Honda accessory has a 1 year warranty from the purchase date, if installed from the factory (SE models, etc) they carry the same warranty as the unit.
Thanks, this was dealer installed. I called today and they are checking with the factory Rep. I'm just lining up plan B
Problem solved!
I went to the dealer today with the buggy and parts. They looked things over, couldn't figure out how the water got in, and were surprised by the amount of corrosion. The part was covered by warranty and everything is back to working as it should.
The more I looked into it the more it became obvious that a repair was going to be a lot of work as @Neohio said all the effort might end up being a waste. The corrosion was down into the solder and there was no longer a proper connection between the pin and the copper trace. I drilled drain holes in the bottom of the new case and applied liberal amounts of dielectric grease everywhere. If you have one of these on your buggy, I would suggest a drain hole through the bottom of the case and mounting bracket. Then apply the dielectric grease and reassemble. It could save you a load of grief down the road
I went to the dealer today with the buggy and parts. They looked things over, couldn't figure out how the water got in, and were surprised by the amount of corrosion. The part was covered by warranty and everything is back to working as it should.
The more I looked into it the more it became obvious that a repair was going to be a lot of work as @Neohio said all the effort might end up being a waste. The corrosion was down into the solder and there was no longer a proper connection between the pin and the copper trace. I drilled drain holes in the bottom of the new case and applied liberal amounts of dielectric grease everywhere. If you have one of these on your buggy, I would suggest a drain hole through the bottom of the case and mounting bracket. Then apply the dielectric grease and reassemble. It could save you a load of grief down the road
Hondasxs
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Woo-hoo.
I'm actually surprised you got that done without much trouble.
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I'm actually surprised you got that done without much trouble.
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K
I saw the first pic on your post and I have a question regarding something else. Can you send me pic of how you wired up your windshield wiper/washer on the accessory fuse box. I’m trying to get my installed using the accessory fuse box harness that came with it.
Thank you!
Mine was dealer installed. If it is a Honda wiper and the Honda fusebox the whole thing should be plug and play. Run a heavy gauge fused wire to the acc fusebox for power in, connect the key on power, plug in the wiper harness (only one port it will fit into) all the input/output ports have a dummy plug in them to keep the insides sealed from water. in the end that was my problem, one dummy plug was missing and that's how the water got in. If you are adding your own wiper to the Honda fusebox you will have to track down a schematic and wire from that
Good job!
Epilogue: Stuff I should have suggested from troubleshooting 101. Always check the easy stuff first!
With a problem involving voltage loss, normally called voltage drop, you can use your test voltmeter. E.g. a relay's closed contacts are tested by touching the voltmeter's leads to each "side" of the closed contacts (this is typically assessable at the relay's pin outs or terminals. The reading should be zero volts across them IF the contacts are in good condition. If there's a voltage reading across the contacts when they are closed, the contacts either have high resistance (bad - and need cleaning), or the contacts are open (relay not functioning or no voltage to relay coil winding). This same method of using the voltmeter, placed leads on either side of an electrical connection, will tell you if the connection is good - zero volts, or bad - some voltage reading showing voltage drop across that connection.
Most any water will have contaminants that allow it to conduct electricity and promote galvanic corrosion, so if you get things wet, it's a good idea to remove electric power until you can get the device dry and cleaned. On portable electronics, this means removing the battery if at all possible.
Epilogue: Stuff I should have suggested from troubleshooting 101. Always check the easy stuff first!
With a problem involving voltage loss, normally called voltage drop, you can use your test voltmeter. E.g. a relay's closed contacts are tested by touching the voltmeter's leads to each "side" of the closed contacts (this is typically assessable at the relay's pin outs or terminals. The reading should be zero volts across them IF the contacts are in good condition. If there's a voltage reading across the contacts when they are closed, the contacts either have high resistance (bad - and need cleaning), or the contacts are open (relay not functioning or no voltage to relay coil winding). This same method of using the voltmeter, placed leads on either side of an electrical connection, will tell you if the connection is good - zero volts, or bad - some voltage reading showing voltage drop across that connection.
Most any water will have contaminants that allow it to conduct electricity and promote galvanic corrosion, so if you get things wet, it's a good idea to remove electric power until you can get the device dry and cleaned. On portable electronics, this means removing the battery if at all possible.
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