P1000 Honda Accessory Fuse Block Issues

[NorthernJoe]

The other day My wiper stopped working, so today I thought I would tidy things up under the hood and figure out why the wiper doesn't work. I checked the fuses to see if they are good. Fuses where good but looked oxidized. The fuse bay was full of water?? so I blew it out, sprayed it with contact cleaner, cleaned the fuses and put them back in. Checked for key on power, that was good but the connector was full of water?? A bit more checking and I found my under seat fan doesn't work, The voltmeter in the dash shows 6 volts and goes out when I turn on the light bar. When I pulled out the connector for the fan and the light they are wet and corroded Pulled out all the connectors and they are all the same


I blew everything out with compressed air, cleaned things up with scotch brite and a welding tip cleaner, sprayed contact cleaner on everything blew it off again applied dielectric grease and put it back together. still the same problem, I have 12v going to the fuse block 12v key on power, good ground, but the output of every connector is 6v
Where would you look next?

 

[Admin]

 

[Hondasxs]

Well that's sucks.
I thought for sure this would been an upgrade to a more sealed and waterproof fuse box.

Pull it out and take it apart.
There is a circuit board and 3 relays inside.
It's easy to take apart and nothing really to mess up or be scared of.

Link - Breakdown of the NEW 2022 Accessory Fuse Box kit. 0SS25-HL4-A00

 

[NorthernJoe]

Well that's sucks.
I thought for sure this would been an upgrade to a more sealed and waterproof fuse box.

Pull it out and take it apart.
There is a circuit board and 3 relays inside.
It's easy to take apart and nothing really to mess up or be scared of.

Link - Breakdown of the NEW 2022 Accessory Fuse Box kit. 0SS25-HL4-A00

Thanks, I was thinking there had to be relays but couldn't see them I'll dig into it and let you know
Joe

 

[NorthernJoe]

@Hondasxs You were absolutely correct Seems Honda forgot the drain hole

Where did all the water come from? It does sit outside most of the time, I think its only been washed once, Its never been off road

Now that its all cleaned up, how do you recommend cleaning/drying the relays?

 

[Neohio]

You will rarely get all the corrosion cleaned off the board. Any effort may be a waste.

 

[NorthernJoe]

You will rarely get all the corrosion cleaned off the board. Any effort may be a waste.

ScotchBrite soaked in contact cleaner seems to do a pretty good job

 

[Smitty335]

@Hondasxs You were absolutely correct Seems Honda forgot the drain hole

Where did all the water come from? It does sit outside most of the time, I think its only been washed once, Its never been off road

View attachment 383907

Now that its all cleaned up, how do you recommend cleaning/drying the relays?

View attachment 383908

Can you put the relays in a bag of rice? Old water logged phone trick?

 

[NorthernJoe]

Can you put the relays in a bag of rice? Old water logged phone trick?

I forgot about that trick
I put it in the toaster oven at 100 F for 10 min then turned it off and left it in there

 

[bumperm]

I forgot about that trick
I put it in the toaster oven at 100 F for 10 min then turned it off and left it in there

That's still probably better than dry rice, which, according to studies is not as effective as a proper desiccant such as silica-gel.

"Often unconsidered, silica gel desiccant is a more effective drying agent than are many of the more frequently recommended solutions – such as uncooked rice – for saving wet cellphones, storing books and spices, and many other household uses."

The problem with water, unless it's distilled and with no impurities, it conducts electricity and galvanic corrosion. This is why, when an electrical device is dropped in water, first thing is to remove the battery if that's possible, and/or get the covers off and and get it dried out. Put on open oven door with oven on low, bag it with desiccant etc.

If galvanic corrosion has occurred, then cleaning it all out, as @NorthernJoe is doing is the only way forward.

 

[HondaTech]

I wonder if water/rain could be collecting and running in under the hood where the dash meets. That's split is right over the fuse box location.

 

[NorthernJoe]

I wonder if water/rain could be collecting and running in under the hood where the dash meets. That's split is right over the fuse box location.

You are probably right, the connectors on the front part of the fuse block had more corrosion than the ones on the rear of the fuse block. When I reassemble it, I'll put a drain hole in the bottom of the fuse block and the mounting bracket.I'll also put a rubber membrane from the cowling in front of the windshield out over the fuse block

 

[Hondasxs]

Oh man.. that's a mess for sure.
sorry to see this.
Another reason I cant recomend this fuse box.
SSV Works usually makes good stuff but this continues to disappoint more and more it seems.

It's a great design, just too many shortcuts taken to save a dime.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[HondaTech]

Oh man.. that's a mess for sure.
sorry to see this.
Another reason I cant recomend this fuse box.
SSV Works usually makes good stuff but this continues to disappoint more and more it seems.

It's a great design, just too many shortcuts taken to save a dime.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

And Honda will still blame it on the customer when I try and get it replaced.

If your going to build s*** for off road vehicles, it needs to be somewhat sealed.

 

[NorthernJoe]

The top and bottom of the fuse block are well sealed, so much so that the water that gets in can't get out. The connectors have a seal that seals the gap between the fuse block and the connector. The wires are completely unsealed in the connector and the fuses are wide open. Now that I know this I can take measures to protect the assembly from water. The person who designed this may have a degree, but has zero practical experience. I would expect this $hit from CF Moto not Honda

 

[Hondasxs]

What you mean... "the wires are unsealed"?
You saying they didn't even install rubber seals on the wire going into the connector?

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[NorthernJoe]

What you mean... "the wires are unsealed"?
You saying they didn't even install rubber seals on the wire going into the connector?

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

it appears that way, I'll have a closer look in the morning

 

[NorthernJoe]

I stand corrected they do have rubber seals around each wire. It's a black seal in a black connector so it doesn't jump out at you, but on closer inspection they are there. the bottom of the cap that covers the fuses also has a seal. So how did the water get there? its been there for a while based on the copper/green colour of the water. I'll drill drain holes and assemble with lots of dielectric grease

 

[NorthernJoe]

OK I'm looking for confirmation here, the positive input (where I have the red marker) is totally corroded and is now an island unto itself. Am I correct to say I need to bridge from the one red dash to the other red dash?

Because of the way the board mounts into the case I can't repair the board on the top side. I was thinking of drilling a hole through the board and adding an eyelet on the back side and cutting down the crimp barrel and bending it and put it through the hole to bridge the gap Am I on the right track?

 

[GolfCart]

OK I'm looking for confirmation here, the positive input (where I have the red marker) is totally corroded and is now an island unto itself. Am I correct to say I need to bridge from the one red dash to the other red dash?

View attachment 383992

Because of the way the board mounts into the case I can't repair the board on the top side. I was thinking of drilling a hole through the board and adding an eyelet on the back side and cutting down the crimp barrel and bending it and put it through the hole to bridge the gap Am I on the right track?
View attachment 383995View attachment 383996

Solderwick works good for this type of thing. It's a piece of flat braided copper wire that is used to wick solder away from a soldered joint but works well as a "jumper" on circuit board. You could just solder it where you have the two red lines.

 

[NorthernJoe]

Solderwick works good for this type of thing. It's a piece of flat braided copper wire that is used to wick solder away from a soldered joint but works well as a "jumper" on circuit board. You could just solder it where you have the two red lines.

I've used solder wick many time for that purpose. The problem is the way the board mounts into the housing, I can't add thickness
on the topside of the board The confirmation I was looking for is, is bridging across the two red dashes the correct repair