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P1000 Honda Pioneer 1000 Oil Change Guide!

nerd

nerd

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Big thanks to @Hondasxs @JACKAL and @MAINEYAK for the instructions. Did my first service today, and although I made a little more mess than intended, all the pictures and video made it seem like a breeze.

Appreciate it
 
BigOL3

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NOT SURE HOPING SOMEONE WILL CHIME IN. WITH IN SETTING IN THERE ON ITS SIDE I DONT SEE IT BEING RESOLVED. JUST BREAK OUT THE TOWELS.
Yep, it is messy, but not a big deal. I put the oil drain short bucket under it and let it rip. Some oil is missed, but get most of it. The oil left on the skid plate and cement is washed off with a hose!
 
BigOL3

BigOL3

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It never ceases to amaze me.
People drop 13, 14, 18, 21,000 freaking dollars and put the cheapest no name oil in it.
Spend the $25 a gallon for the Honda Oil. Replace both filters every oil change.
I have been running diesel truck for the past 20+ years and Honda dirtbikes/atvs for 50 yrs. For the past 20+ yrs I have put Rotella 15-40 in EVERYTHING with NEVER a problem. Honda Oil is a high priced ripoff.
 
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elkguide

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I have been running diesel truck for the past 20+ years and Honda dirtbikes/atvs for 50 yrs. For the past 20+ yrs I have put Rotella 15-40 in EVERYTHING with NEVER a problem. Honda Oil is a high priced ripoff.


Very similar past record here.

The issue today is that even Rotella has changed to meet the new requirements and the Pioneer is an entirely different animal with the tranny and all of the electronics. So for me, as much as I hate to have a "special oil" on the shelf, I now do.
 
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BigOL3

BigOL3

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Very similar past record here.

The issue today is that even Rotella has changed to meet the new requirements and the Pioneer is an entirely different animal with the tranny and all of the electronics. So for me, as much as I hate to have a "special oil" on the shelf, I now do.
There is a NEW Rotella, but also the same original Rotella. They use different codes. I buy the original CK4, not the new FA-4.

What you need to know about CK-4 and FA-4
 
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elkguide

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There is a NEW Rotella, but also the same original Rotella. They use different codes. I buy the original CK4, not the new FA-4.

What you need to know about CK-4 and FA-4

Correct and the "new" CK4 will continue to work in all of our "old school" rigs but the new rigs, (ie: Honda Pioneer) need the new oils because of the temps they run at and the shear content of the new oils helps them achieve what they are needed to do in a new engine.
 
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MAK

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Thanks to the writer of this post. Great instructions!

Don't take this the wrong way, but PLEASE edit the torque specifications for the filter bolts.

I realize this is taken directly from Honda's specs but it cant be accurate. I completed the oil change and everything went smoothly thanks to your instructions . That is... until I decided to put a torque wrench on those bolts and broke one off trying to get to 9 ft/lbs.

I read other posts of the same problem. If I didn't own a torque wrench, I'd be happily enjoying my new pioneer right now. Instead, I'll be rolling it into a dealer and probably paying twice what it would have cost to have them do the service for me.

Great instructions...just might want to change that torque spec to save someone the same fate.

Thanks!
 
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BigOL3

BigOL3

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Correct and the "new" CK4 will continue to work in all of our "old school" rigs but the new rigs, (ie: Honda Pioneer) need the new oils because of the temps they run at and the shear content of the new oils helps them achieve what they are needed to do in a new engine.
Pretty sure you are wrong. I don't have the info in front of me at the time, but when I checked the CK4 Rotella, met the needs for the pioneer.
 
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Jaredgriffin29

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  1. 1000-5

The Pioneer 1000 is a little different from your past Honda ATV or SxS's. With the 1000, there are 3 different categories that need to be discussed. We will try out best to cover them in detail. The idea is to help you complete the oil change at home on your own vs paying a dealer $$$ to do it!
  1. Engine Oil and Filter
  2. DCT Filter
  3. Sub Transmission - Change Guide HERE!
In this thread, we will ONLY be discussing the Engine Oil, Oil Filter, and DCT Filter.
***WARNING - DO NOT DRAIN THE WRONG PLUG!***

Before we start it is important that you locate each drain and be able to tell which one is for what. There are 3 drains and they can be easily mixed up causing you draining the wrong one!
View attachment 9436 View attachment 10697
  • Sub Transmission (closest to the front of the SxS)
  • Engine Oil (middle)
  • DCT Oil tank (closest to the rear of the SxS)
Supplies needed:
  • Flat Head Screw Driver or Fender Clip Removal Tool to remove the clips.
  • 12 mm Socket for Engine & DCT drain plugs.
  • 10mm Socket on 1/8" drive ratchet for filter covers.
  • Honda recommends a Torque wrench.
  • A Few Rags.
  • Two Oil Catch Pans.
  • Funnel with an extended tube to reach into the fill hole. I use a version of this funnel from Walmart, it lets you turn the flow on and off as well as measured calibrations on the side: FloTool Measu-Funnel, 7pc - Walmart.com
Required Oil and Filters:
  • OIL Filter Part Number - 15412-HP7-A01 - Buy Here
  • DCT Filter Part Number - 15412-MGS-D21 - Buy Here
  • Recommended Oil - Pro Honda GN4 10x30, 4-Stroke Motor Oil - Buy Here
    • 6.1 US qt (5.8 liters) after draining, Oil filter and DCT filter change.
    • 6.0 US qt (5.7 liters) after draining and ONLY engine oil filter change.
    • 5.8 US qt (5.5 liters) after drain ONLY!
Both the Owners manual and the Service Manual have a discrepancy with Oil drain with Engine filter change. All are correct at 6.1 for DCT,Engine, and oil drain of 6.1

Optional Parts
  • Engine Oil Filter
  • O-RING - Oil Filter Cover (75X2.5), Part# 91301-107-000
  • SPRING - Oil Part# 15414-KF0-000
  • Bolt - Cover - Oil (6X18), Part# 95701-06018-00
  • DCT
  • O-RING - DCT Filter Cover (39.8X2.2), Part# 91302-PA9-003
  • SPRING - DCT Part# 15414-MEB-670
  • Bolt - Cover - DCT (6X18), Part# 95701-06018-00
  • OIL DRAINS, Pan, and Tank.
  • Bolt - Oil Pan/Tank, Part# 90131-896-650
  • Washer - Oil Pan/Tank, Part# 94109-12000
GETTING STARTED!
Step 1 - Prepare the work area and the SxS:
Locate a safe and level spot to park the SxS.
Operate the SxS long enough to warm the engine. Around 5 minutes.
Drive to selected spot.
Insure SxS is in park.
Turn off and remove the key.

Step 2 - Accessing the Oil Fill Cap
Remove the rear mudguard lid under the cargo bed.
Loosen the Remove the Oil Fill Cap to allow faster drain.
View attachment 10695View attachment 10694

Step 3 - Drain the Oil:
3.1 - Drain Oil Tank
View attachment 10920

Place the a drain pan under the Oil Tank plug (The rear drain)
Remove the plug with a 12mm socket. Allow oil to drain.

3.2 - Drain Oil Pan

View attachment 10923View attachment 11068
Place a second oil drain pan under the Oil Pan drain plug. (the middle drain)
Remove the plug with a 12mm wrench. Note: oil will spurt straight out towards the driver's side edge of the SXS make sure you are clear so you do not get burned by hot oil. Be sure and have the drain pan in position to avoid spillage. Allow oil to drain.

*HINT* Draining the oil tank first will limit the pressure on the pan drain. It is likely you will get oil on the skid plate. Recommend pushing rags around the edge of the skid plate to help limit this.

Allow both to drain simultaneously until finished.
Reinstall both drain plugs with sealing washers.

Note: Honda recommends installing a NEW sealing washer.
Recommend torque specs are 30N.m (3.1 kgf, 22 lbf.ft).


Step 4 - Replacing the Filters:
View attachment 10698
Sitting by the rear driver wheel you can see and access both the Oil Filter and DCT Filter. Each is identified with markings of "ENG" and "DCT" stamped into the covers.


Step 4.1 - ENGINE OIL FILTER REPLACEMENT
View attachment 10700
Locate the filter cover with the "ENG" markings.
Remove the 3 bolts with a 10mm ratchet.

*CAUTION* Both filters have a spring between the cover and the filter, be VERY CAREFUL when removing the spring will drop and get lost.

View attachment 10950
Remove the filter and dispose of properly. Replace with a new filter in the correct order with the "OUTSIDE" marks facing OUT! Wet the O-rings with a light coating of oil.
NOTE: Honda recommends replacing the cover O-Ring. However many users/dealers only replace when damaged.

View attachment 10951
Re-install filter cover and SPRING with the "ENG" marks facing UP! Place and tighten the 3 Oil Filter Cover Bolts securely.
Recommend torque specs - 9 lbf.ft (12N.m , 1.2 kgf.m). We recommend using your judgment with a good and tight snug.

Step 4.2 - DCT FILTER REPLACEMENT
View attachment 10699
Locate the filter cover with the "DCT" markings.
Remove the 2 bolts with a 10mm socket.
Remove the Cover, Spring, and Filter. Spring will drop if not cautious.
Ensure the rubber seal comes out with the filter. There are reports of it sticking in the case.
TIP: Trick to removing filter is to stick a small screwdriver into the pressure relief hole as shown.

View attachment 10921
Remove the filter and dispose of properly. Replace with a new filter in the correct order with the "OUTSIDE" marks facing OUT! Wet the O-rings with a light coating of oil.
NOTE: Honda recommends replacing the cover O-Ring. However many users/dealers only replace when damaged.

View attachment 10922
Re-install filter cover and SPRING with the "DCT" marks facing UP! Place and tighten the 2 Oil Filter Cover Bolts securely.
Recommend torque specs - 9 lbf.ft (12N.m , 1.2 kgf.m). We recommend using your judgement.
View attachment 10924

Filter comparison Old vs. New, pictured are the filters from initial service oil change.
View attachment 10702

Step 5 - Replacing the OIL:
View attachment 10696
Replace the Oil with the recommended oil.
The Pioneer 1000 (both M3 and M5) require 5.8 Liters (6.1 US qt) of oil to fill after a drain and both filter changes! To refill, place a funnel in the oil filler hole shown in step 1, refill with the required amount of oil.
Tighten the cap once completed.

Step 6 - Checking the Oil
View attachment 10703
Park SxS on level surface, Start and run the engine at idle for 3-5 minuets. Stop the engine and allow to sit for 2 minuets.
Check that the oil is filled properly using the dip stick located:
-- 1000-3: Under cargo bed, behind the drivers seat.
-- 1000-5: Under cargo bed, drivers side, rear footwell, under the rubber flap.

View attachment 10952
Remove the dip stick and wipe clean. Insert the dip stick into the hole without screwing it in. Remove and check the level by looking for oil between the UPPER and LOWER mark as shown Above. The yellow line is my oil level. Perfect between both marks.

If low, re-do the check. If still low, add oil until the reading is between the UPPER and LOWER marks.
DO NOT OVERFILL!
If between the marks, Install dipstick and hand tighten.
Check all plugs and filters to make sure there are on leaks.

Step 7 - Finishing up
Finally, Re-Install the MudGuard from Step 1 and clean up your work area.
Crank and run the SxS for about 5 minutes.
Check all plugs and filters for leaks.

[maint minder]
Step 8 - Resetting the Maintenance Minder Indicator
View attachment 10953

The Maintenance Minder Indicator will appear in the main display when you have reached a maintenance period suggested by the Honda maintenance schedule.
The wrench will appear in the display at the following periods:
  • Initial Maintenance – 100 miles or 20 hours!
  • Regular Maintenance Interval 1 – 600 miles
  • Regular Maintenance Interval 2 – 600 miles after interval 1 is performed and reset.
View the full Maintenance Schedule HERE

Resetting it
To reset the Maintenance Minder Indicator:
Place the ignition switch in the off position.
Hold the SEL/SET button on the display down
View attachment 10957
Turn the ignition switch to the on position. Do not crank!
Continue holding the button until the wrench blinks twice, Approx. 2 seconds.

The Maintenance Minder as well as the maintenance trip meter and maintenance hour meter will be reset.
View attachment 10954

Now you are all set and ready to hit the trail.
Good luck and be safe.

Step 9 - Posting about this guide!
If you found this guide useful please post and let us know. Not only does it show its use, it also bumps the post for other members to see and save some $$$ changing their own oil!

If you need further help please post below.
If you see an error, mistake or something out of order please let us know so it can be corrected.
Note: We make no claims of accuracy. Please refer to the service manual for official instructions.
Appreciate the oil change info .. very helpful .now I'm fixing to tear out . Thanks again
 
OnTheJob

OnTheJob

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WOW that was messy! I don't see anyway around it unless you lift it and take off the skids. But it was simple and straightforward.

Public service announcement: DO NOT power wash your machine prior to changing the oil. Let it sit for a day. Trust me on this one.
 
Smitty335

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Thanks to the writer of this post. Great instructions!

Don't take this the wrong way, but PLEASE edit the torque specifications for the filter bolts.

I realize this is taken directly from Honda's specs but it cant be accurate. I completed the oil change and everything went smoothly thanks to your instructions . That is... until I decided to put a torque wrench on those bolts and broke one off trying to get to 9 ft/lbs.

I read other posts of the same problem. If I didn't own a torque wrench, I'd be happily enjoying my new pioneer right now. Instead, I'll be rolling it into a dealer and probably paying twice what it would have cost to have them do the service for me.

Great instructions...just might want to change that torque spec to save someone the same fate.

Thanks!
Check your torque wrench. with an 18 inch handle should been able to use one finger for 9 pounds???????
 
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M

Meyer

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Mar 1, 2017
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Ownership

  1. 1000-5

The Pioneer 1000 is a little different from your past Honda ATV or SxS's. With the 1000, there are 3 different categories that need to be discussed. We will try out best to cover them in detail. The idea is to help you complete the oil change at home on your own vs paying a dealer $$$ to do it!
  1. Engine Oil and Filter
  2. DCT Filter
  3. Sub Transmission - Change Guide HERE!
In this thread, we will ONLY be discussing the Engine Oil, Oil Filter, and DCT Filter.
***WARNING - DO NOT DRAIN THE WRONG PLUG!***

Before we start it is important that you locate each drain and be able to tell which one is for what. There are 3 drains and they can be easily mixed up causing you draining the wrong one!
View attachment 9436 View attachment 10697
  • Sub Transmission (closest to the front of the SxS)
  • Engine Oil (middle)
  • DCT Oil tank (closest to the rear of the SxS)
Supplies needed:
  • Flat Head Screw Driver or Fender Clip Removal Tool to remove the clips.
  • 12 mm Socket for Engine & DCT drain plugs.
  • 10mm Socket on 1/8" drive ratchet for filter covers.
  • Honda recommends a Torque wrench.
  • A Few Rags.
  • Two Oil Catch Pans.
  • Funnel with an extended tube to reach into the fill hole. I use a version of this funnel from Walmart, it lets you turn the flow on and off as well as measured calibrations on the side: FloTool Measu-Funnel, 7pc - Walmart.com
Required Oil and Filters:
  • OIL Filter Part Number - 15412-HP7-A01 - Buy Here
  • DCT Filter Part Number - 15412-MGS-D21 - Buy Here
  • Recommended Oil - Pro Honda GN4 10x30, 4-Stroke Motor Oil - Buy Here
    • 6.1 US qt (5.8 liters) after draining, Oil filter and DCT filter change.
    • 6.0 US qt (5.7 liters) after draining and ONLY engine oil filter change.
    • 5.8 US qt (5.5 liters) after drain ONLY!
Both the Owners manual and the Service Manual have a discrepancy with Oil drain with Engine filter change. All are correct at 6.1 for DCT,Engine, and oil drain of 6.1

Optional Parts
  • Engine Oil Filter
  • O-RING - Oil Filter Cover (75X2.5), Part# 91301-107-000
  • SPRING - Oil Part# 15414-KF0-000
  • Bolt - Cover - Oil (6X18), Part# 95701-06018-00
  • DCT
  • O-RING - DCT Filter Cover (39.8X2.2), Part# 91302-PA9-003
  • SPRING - DCT Part# 15414-MEB-670
  • Bolt - Cover - DCT (6X18), Part# 95701-06018-00
  • OIL DRAINS, Pan, and Tank.
  • Bolt - Oil Pan/Tank, Part# 90131-896-650
  • Washer - Oil Pan/Tank, Part# 94109-12000
GETTING STARTED!
Step 1 - Prepare the work area and the SxS:
Locate a safe and level spot to park the SxS.
Operate the SxS long enough to warm the engine. Around 5 minutes.
Drive to selected spot.
Insure SxS is in park.
Turn off and remove the key.

Step 2 - Accessing the Oil Fill Cap
Remove the rear mudguard lid under the cargo bed.
Loosen the Remove the Oil Fill Cap to allow faster drain.
View attachment 10695View attachment 10694

Step 3 - Drain the Oil:
3.1 - Drain Oil Tank
View attachment 10920

Place the a drain pan under the Oil Tank plug (The rear drain)
Remove the plug with a 12mm socket. Allow oil to drain.

3.2 - Drain Oil Pan

View attachment 10923View attachment 11068
Place a second oil drain pan under the Oil Pan drain plug. (the middle drain)
Remove the plug with a 12mm wrench. Note: oil will spurt straight out towards the driver's side edge of the SXS make sure you are clear so you do not get burned by hot oil. Be sure and have the drain pan in position to avoid spillage. Allow oil to drain.

*HINT* Draining the oil tank first will limit the pressure on the pan drain. It is likely you will get oil on the skid plate. Recommend pushing rags around the edge of the skid plate to help limit this.

Allow both to drain simultaneously until finished.
Reinstall both drain plugs with sealing washers.

Note: Honda recommends installing a NEW sealing washer.
Recommend torque specs are 30N.m (3.1 kgf, 22 lbf.ft).


Step 4 - Replacing the Filters:
View attachment 10698
Sitting by the rear driver wheel you can see and access both the Oil Filter and DCT Filter. Each is identified with markings of "ENG" and "DCT" stamped into the covers.


Step 4.1 - ENGINE OIL FILTER REPLACEMENT
View attachment 10700
Locate the filter cover with the "ENG" markings.
Remove the 3 bolts with a 10mm ratchet.

*CAUTION* Both filters have a spring between the cover and the filter, be VERY CAREFUL when removing the spring will drop and get lost.

View attachment 10950
Remove the filter and dispose of properly. Replace with a new filter in the correct order with the "OUTSIDE" marks facing OUT! Wet the O-rings with a light coating of oil.
NOTE: Honda recommends replacing the cover O-Ring. However many users/dealers only replace when damaged.

View attachment 10951
Re-install filter cover and SPRING with the "ENG" marks facing UP! Place and tighten the 3 Oil Filter Cover Bolts securely.
Recommend torque specs - 9 lbf.ft (12N.m , 1.2 kgf.m). We recommend using your judgment with a good and tight snug.

Step 4.2 - DCT FILTER REPLACEMENT
View attachment 10699
Locate the filter cover with the "DCT" markings.
Remove the 2 bolts with a 10mm socket.
Remove the Cover, Spring, and Filter. Spring will drop if not cautious.
Ensure the rubber seal comes out with the filter. There are reports of it sticking in the case.
TIP: Trick to removing filter is to stick a small screwdriver into the pressure relief hole as shown.

View attachment 10921
Remove the filter and dispose of properly. Replace with a new filter in the correct order with the "OUTSIDE" marks facing OUT! Wet the O-rings with a light coating of oil.
NOTE: Honda recommends replacing the cover O-Ring. However many users/dealers only replace when damaged.

View attachment 10922
Re-install filter cover and SPRING with the "DCT" marks facing UP! Place and tighten the 2 Oil Filter Cover Bolts securely.
Recommend torque specs - 9 lbf.ft (12N.m , 1.2 kgf.m). We recommend using your judgement.
View attachment 10924

Filter comparison Old vs. New, pictured are the filters from initial service oil change.
View attachment 10702

Step 5 - Replacing the OIL:
View attachment 10696
Replace the Oil with the recommended oil.
The Pioneer 1000 (both M3 and M5) require 5.8 Liters (6.1 US qt) of oil to fill after a drain and both filter changes! To refill, place a funnel in the oil filler hole shown in step 1, refill with the required amount of oil.
Tighten the cap once completed.

Step 6 - Checking the Oil
View attachment 10703
Park SxS on level surface, Start and run the engine at idle for 3-5 minuets. Stop the engine and allow to sit for 2 minuets.
Check that the oil is filled properly using the dip stick located:
-- 1000-3: Under cargo bed, behind the drivers seat.
-- 1000-5: Under cargo bed, drivers side, rear footwell, under the rubber flap.

View attachment 10952
Remove the dip stick and wipe clean. Insert the dip stick into the hole without screwing it in. Remove and check the level by looking for oil between the UPPER and LOWER mark as shown Above. The yellow line is my oil level. Perfect between both marks.

If low, re-do the check. If still low, add oil until the reading is between the UPPER and LOWER marks.
DO NOT OVERFILL!
If between the marks, Install dipstick and hand tighten.
Check all plugs and filters to make sure there are on leaks.

Step 7 - Finishing up
Finally, Re-Install the MudGuard from Step 1 and clean up your work area.
Crank and run the SxS for about 5 minutes.
Check all plugs and filters for leaks.

[maint minder]
Step 8 - Resetting the Maintenance Minder Indicator
View attachment 10953

The Maintenance Minder Indicator will appear in the main display when you have reached a maintenance period suggested by the Honda maintenance schedule.
The wrench will appear in the display at the following periods:
  • Initial Maintenance – 100 miles or 20 hours!
  • Regular Maintenance Interval 1 – 600 miles
  • Regular Maintenance Interval 2 – 600 miles after interval 1 is performed and reset.
View the full Maintenance Schedule HERE

Resetting it
To reset the Maintenance Minder Indicator:
Place the ignition switch in the off position.
Hold the SEL/SET button on the display down
View attachment 10957
Turn the ignition switch to the on position. Do not crank!
Continue holding the button until the wrench blinks twice, Approx. 2 seconds.

The Maintenance Minder as well as the maintenance trip meter and maintenance hour meter will be reset.
View attachment 10954

Now you are all set and ready to hit the trail.
Good luck and be safe.

Step 9 - Posting about this guide!
If you found this guide useful please post and let us know. Not only does it show its use, it also bumps the post for other members to see and save some $$$ changing their own oil!

If you need further help please post below.
If you see an error, mistake or something out of order please let us know so it can be corrected.
Note: We make no claims of accuracy. Please refer to the service manual for official instructions.
 
0

0860silverado

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Check your torque wrench. with an 18 inch handle should been able to use one finger for 9 pounds???????
I don't think he was saying that he had a hard time mustering the physical strength to turn the torque wrench to 9 ft lbs. He meant that while turning, little by little and probably cringing the whole time waiting to reach 9 ft lbs of torque, the bolt snapped. Obviously a misprint in the manual especially being it's such a tiny bolt threaded into an aluminum block. Maybe supposed to be 9 inch pounds?
 
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ibleedjohndeeregreen

ibleedjohndeeregreen

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Has anyone stripped the internal threads on the DCT filter? I have a bolt that just spins. Has anyone ever tried the fix thread inserts?
 
Hondasxs

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Has anyone stripped the internal threads on the DCT filter? I have a bolt that just spins. Has anyone ever tried the fix thread inserts?
Have seen a few stripped, but It's such a small bolt, I would re-tap it before I did the inserts.
If you do, be sure to mark it, paint the head green and be sure to paint the hole green too to mark the re-taped hole.

Oh.. be sure to NOT use a torque wrench. This continues to happen over torque these bolts. Learn to feel it out.
 
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