P1000 Is OIL COLOR related to burnt clutches?

Delton

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Mine looked brand new at 100 miles. I hated to get rid of it. I was gonna save it and use as bar chain oil for my saw but I'm kinda anal bout my Stihls and only use their products for my saw and weed eater lol.
 
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DTAGG

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Mine is sill in the drain pan so I stirred it up and smeared some on a paper towel for comparison to the picture above.
@DTAGG - was your filter dark ?

View attachment 11471
i only changed filter at 100 miles both of which were dark . I didn't notice any metal flakes in filter and for the most part the oil was pretty clean when i changed it at 100. I have 450 miles on current oil and the pic is from checking oil on both dipsticks engine and trans last night as this subject came up. I noticed i was a little low on oil in engine by a few ounces so i topped it off. looking at the clean oil and the way my machine runs, i will be riding happy for a while. of course checking often .
 
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dale5740

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who has the most miles when clutch problems started ( we have see n early clutch problems what about late ones) I want to know as I'm sure everyone else does as well that if I don't have a problem by a certain point then I wont at all. Anyone with burnt clutches after a couple hundred miles?
 
Bayouownbeer

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You're talking engine oil - not sub trans right?
Not good :(
This is how mine looked at 92 miles. Does not smell burnt. I've been relatively gentle with the machine too. No gnarly stuff.

View attachment 11470
Changed my oil yesterday at exactly 100 miles it was about same color as this. I've changed a lot of oil in vechicles and I'd say it looked about right for a breaking oil at 100 miles. It wasn't bunt smelling or black on a rag but it was dark. And I still cannot get my clutches to slip again.
 
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dale5740

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Changed my oil yesterday at exactly 100 miles it was about same color as this. I've changed a lot of oil in vechicles and I'd say it looked about right for a breaking oil at 100 miles. It wasn't bunt smelling or black on a rag but it was dark. And I still cannot get my clutches to slip again.
I'm worried for you sounds not good!! We will see ( if u rode real real hard I could see oil being a little dark maybe but from what we have heard from other riders who do ride hard it should look like new) keep an eye out! Also a lot of room for error here because as u all know when u put oil in a napkin it always looks cleaner than in a pail or bowl of some sort keep the pic rolling
 
dale5740

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Mine looked brand new at 100 miles. I hated to get rid of it. I was gonna save it and use as bar chain oil for my saw but I'm kinda anal bout my Stihls and only use their products for my saw and weed eater lol.
Would u say u ride hard medium????
 
Delton

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Would u say u ride hard medium????
I would say I ride between medium and hard. Always after deep mud or big rocks to climb. I don't use alot of rpms, I make motor work for a living lol.
 
Bayouownbeer

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Changed my oil yesterday at exactly 100 miles it was about same color as this. I've changed a lot of oil in vechicles and I'd say it looked about right for a breaking oil at 100 miles. It wasn't bunt smelling or black on a rag but it was dark. And I still cannot get my clutches to slip again.
I did have a decient amount of metal in the engine filter haven't opened the DTC yet.
ImageImage Image
 
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Hondasxs

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Thanks @Bayouownbeer, Thats what I wanted to see.
Tho I see some in your filter. It is not as much as we found in the 700's.
And thats a good sign.
 
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dale5740

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metal is ok. what u don't want to see is gold specs thats bad!!! gold is from bearings
 
Hometeam

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@dale5740 I am a little confused here....I didn't see this thread you had started in this section when I posted my post in the clutches slipping thread....and this is what I was basically getting at with that post (maybe I didn't do a good job stating it:)). But conventional oil that has taken contamination from clutchs heat or wear and breakin metals and lubes ( I know that there is not enough lube in assembly to do this by itself but was just stating that it adds to the overall breakdown) used will have lost a lot of it's lubricity properties and could effect a number of things especially when it sounds like the shifting uses oil pressure and the clutchs get the oil. That's why I said that full synthetic, which doesn't break down at the same rate and stands up to heat abuse better( like being buried in mud and straining the motor and trans more and heat building up), might help battle some of the clutch issues/questions. I detailed my breakin process because my machine never saw oil that had be darkened by heat, metal, or anything else in the breakin process and runs flawless. Also I bought my P1000 a week before thanksgiving so it was definitely an earlier one. Are we kind of brain storming the same thought here??) Since post can not show personal expression I want to be clear that I am not meaning anything negative here. Just open discussion!!;)
 
ghost

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I changed my oil earlier this week (break in service) and man, it runs smooth now.
Shifting is much quieter and less clunky.

I took it for a test drive after the engine oil change but before I did the sub-trans. I thought I noticed a bit of slippage while changing gears - barely noticeable - not as nearly bad as some videos on the other thread. No other changes at that point.

Then I changed the sub-trans oil and my last couple rides have been excellent - like I said above with smooth quiet shifting. That does not make sense to me - unless it just took a couple of rides for the machine to respond to the new engine oil. Maybe someone else can explain it.
 
dale5740

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@dale5740 I am a little confused here....I didn't see this thread you had started in this section when I posted my post in the clutches slipping thread....and this is what I was basically getting at with that post (maybe I didn't do a good job stating it:)). But conventional oil that has taken contamination from clutchs heat or wear and breakin metals and lubes ( I know that there is not enough lube in assembly to do this by itself but was just stating that it adds to the overall breakdown) used will have lost a lot of it's lubricity properties and could effect a number of things especially when it sounds like the shifting uses oil pressure and the clutchs get the oil. That's why I said that full synthetic, which doesn't break down at the same rate and stands up to heat abuse better( like being buried in mud and straining the motor and trans more and heat building up), might help battle some of the clutch issues/questions. I detailed my breakin process because my machine never saw oil that had be darkened by heat, metal, or anything else in the breakin process and runs flawless. Also I bought my P1000 a week before thanksgiving so it was definitely an earlier one. Are we kind of brain storming the same thought here??) Since post can not show personal expression I want to be clear that I am not meaning anything negative here. Just open discussion!!;)
nothing negative taken!!! at all!! I definitely encourage any and all thoughts and comments on this subject as we pick apart different thoughts and ideas we ALWAYS learn from it we are def on the same page. Thanks for your input..!
 
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dale5740

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I changed my oil earlier this week (break in service) and man, it runs smooth now.
Shifting is much quieter and less clunky.

I took it for a test drive after the engine oil change but before I did the sub-trans. I thought I noticed a bit of slippage while changing gears - barely noticeable - not as nearly bad as some videos on the other thread. No other changes at that point.

Then I changed the sub-trans oil and my last couple rides have been excellent - like I said above with smooth quiet shifting. That does not make sense to me - unless it just took a couple of rides for the machine to respond to the new engine oil. Maybe someone else can explain it.
did u go with conventional or synthetic?
 
ghost

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Conventional in the engine - GN4
Synthetic in the sub-trans.
 
dale5740

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Conventional in the engine - GN4
Synthetic in the sub-trans.
what is your thought behind that? do u plan to go to synthetic in the engine next oil change?
 
ghost

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That's what I'm thinking but I want to spend some more time with the Honda oil in the engine/dct for breakin. Maybe at 300 miles I'll switch. The sub trans oil will be in there longer so wanted to go synthetic now.
 
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ButchersHook

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That's what I'm thinking but I want to spend some more time with the Honda oil in the engine/dct for breakin. Maybe at 300 miles I'll switch. The sub trans oil will be in there longer so wanted to go synthetic now.

You are aware that Honda makes a full synthetic oil??

I just found it odd you want more time with Honda oil then switch to synthetic?
 
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