P1000 Burnt my Clutches

russknight

russknight

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Was riding in the Alapaha River yesterday in an attempt to get to a buddy who got stuck on his ATV. Long story short, spun down in wet quicksand and in the process of trying to get out, burned my clutches. They now slip a little when shifting from 2nd to 3rd, and 4th to 5th. Watched a video and it doesn't seem to be a terrible job to replace them. Learned a couple of things from this. First, never ride the Alapaha when it gets wet, and second, 31" tires (at least real aggressive ones) are too big for the 1000 without gear reduction.
 
Remington

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31" tires (at least real aggressive ones) are too big for the 1000 without gear reduction.
I know your prob upset right now cuz of what u did.
but that is simply not true. Depends on how u drive. Ive had true 30’s Heavier than utv tire LT/MT’s for 3 yrs heavy riding and 4k miles on them and no clutch issue. Another inch would be fine (NoHomo)
Should have stopped and tried to winch out if that was possible or called for back up like your buddy did. Prob would have burned them up with stockers the way it sounded. Sorry u have to go through this.
 
russknight

russknight

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I know your prob upset right now cuz of what u did.
but that is simply not true. Depends on how u drive. Ive had true 30’s Heavier than utv tire LT/MT’s for 3 yrs heavy riding and 4k miles on them and no clutch issue. Another inch would be fine (NoHomo)
Should have stopped and tried to winch out if that was possible or called for back up like your buddy did. Prob would have burned them up with stockers the way it sounded. Sorry u have to go through this.

No, I'm not upset, nothing to be upset about. I was thirty miles from my vehicle and trailer and made it back with no problem. I've ordered the repair parts to fix it, which aren't terribly expensive. 31's ARE too big in certain conditions for the machine, especially when reversing, unless you baby it. Granted, it was a bad spot with nothing to winch to, but smaller tires would have just spun without damaging the clutches. 31's make it noticeably more difficult to stop from higher speeds as well. I'm going to keep them but be more careful of where I drive.
 
russknight

russknight

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You were in low range? Must've been some pretty sticky stuff to get you slipping.

If I'm reading correctly, it sounds like you burned up your 2-4-6 pack, which seems unusual.
You are correct. I misspoke. It slips when shifting from 1st to 2nd, 3rd to 4th, 5th to 6th. Would putting it in a bind in reverse do it to that pack? I had to get on it hard in reverse to break suction on the tires.
 
H

HondaTech

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You are correct. I misspoke. It slips when shifting from 1st to 2nd, 3rd to 4th, 5th to 6th. Would putting it in a bind in reverse do it to that pack? I had to get on it hard in reverse to break suction on the tires.

Reverse is also riding on the the same clutch, so yes that would burn the 1st clutch.

Be sure to set the sprung drive gear when installing the new clutch also clean out the valve body, oil tank and oil pan
 
russknight

russknight

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Reverse is also riding on the the same clutch, so yes that would burn the 1st clutch.

Be sure to set the sprung drive gear when installing the new clutch also clean out the valve body, oil tank and oil pan
I think that's what did it. Does the service manual cover setting the sprung drive gear?
 
snuffnwhisky

snuffnwhisky

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I bent a flat head screw driver and was able to move that spring gear and get the clutch gear in. If it is the R, 1, 3, 5 clutch, it's on the outside and with some L shaped pry bars u can get it off without pulling the whole assembly and messing with the spring gear. Pulling the oil tank is the most aggregating part and doesn't have to be done if the screw driver works or u just pull the outside clutch off the gear.
 
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H

HondaTech

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I bent a flat head screw driver and was able to move that spring gear and get the clutch gear in. If it is the R, 1, 3, 5 clutch, it's on the outside and with some L shaped pry bars u can get it off without pulling the whole assembly and messing with the spring gear. Pulling the oil tank is the most aggregating part and doesn't have to be done if the screw driver works or u just pull the outside clutch off the gear.

I won't do a clutch without taking the oil tank off after seeing the stuff that gets left in there.

Also the gear can't just be lined up, its got to be primed on the springs, so unless you can get something in there and hold the gear against the spring while pushing the clutch in the rear plate has to come off.
 
snuffnwhisky

snuffnwhisky

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I won't do a clutch without taking the oil tank off after seeing the stuff that gets left in there.

Also the gear can't just be lined up, its got to be primed on the springs, so unless you can get something in there and hold the gear against the spring while pushing the clutch in the rear plate has to come off.
Agreed on full disassembly when burning a clutch. Also pull the oil pan and clean the pickup and DCT screen in the valve body. U can still though put the whole clutch/gear assembly in without pulling the oil tank. I did it multiple times when I modded my clutches to hold 5 frictions and steels. Custom screw driver to push that skinny gear over.
 
P1K5Dave

P1K5Dave

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@russknight depending on your model year, a lower reverse update may have prevented your problem. We used to call it "Talon reverse" but I think it's standard on Pioneers now (since '21?)

It's the 26 tooth reverse.
 

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