Larger tires, why?

Many_Gs

Many_Gs

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Hey all,

Waiting for my Talon 1000x-4 LV to arrive at the dealership, curious why upgrade to larger tires though? What are the benefits?

I plan to rip up some trails, do some mud and hill climbs so not sure if I should upgrade right away or not. Worried about losing the power with bigger heavier tires. Thanks in advance!

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TripleB

TripleB

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Hey all,

Waiting for my Talon 1000x-4 LV to arrive at the dealership, curious why upgrade to larger tires though? What are the benefits?

I plan to rip up some trails, do some mud and hill climbs so not sure if I should upgrade right away or not. Worried about losing the power with bigger heavier tires. Thanks in advance!

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
You will turtle big time in a 4 seater unless you get some more clearance. U need a good 1t2 inch skid plate also. Skids and winch would be my first mod. Then 30 inch tires.
 
Many_Gs

Many_Gs

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You will turtle big time in a 4 seater unless you get some more clearance. U need a good 1t2 inch skid plate also. Skids and winch would be my first mod. Then 30 inch tires.
Turtle? As in bottom out?

So I shouldn't buy this cool sound bar first?

I planned the following before the talon even arrives. Winch, windshield, lights, soundbar, possibly tires.

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CID

CID

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I ran my stock tires 'to death' because I'm cheap frugal. The stockers are also a bit wimpy as far as puncture resistance. A larger diameter buys you additional ground clearance, 30" tires get you ONE inch. But they also increase the lever arm against which your gearing has to work (lever arm - distance from axle centerline to the ground). With our Talons, that's not an easy fix, we're geared and don't get to change a few clutch weights/ramps to make up for tire size changes like the CVT guys. I've been satisfied with my 30"ers and I ride over 13k feet occasionally. :oops:

Something we get to deal with is the DCT bog and larger tires make it worse. WTF is that?!?! Our idle speed is 1500 rpm and the clutch starts to engage at 1800, there just isn't any torque down there and the engine can't 'go'. A simple 'bump' is usually enough to get things going.

I caught it on video at 25:15 minutes here - (posted before for those taking notes 😊)
 
Blownzuki

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Go big! Just make sure it is a aggressive tire for the mud. I turtled my x4 at RRB last year. Tire choice is critical. Maybe some chrome would help with the larger tires?
 
Montecresto

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Hey all,

Waiting for my Talon 1000x-4 LV to arrive at the dealership, curious why upgrade to larger tires though? What are the benefits?

I plan to rip up some trails, do some mud and hill climbs so not sure if I should upgrade right away or not. Worried about losing the power with bigger heavier tires. Thanks in advance!

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Just not enough clearance for the wheelbase. I went with 30’s (true 30.5) You won’t notice power loss at the elevations you ride....
 
Many_Gs

Many_Gs

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Just not enough clearance for the wheelbase. I went with 30’s (true 30.5) You won’t notice power loss at the elevations you ride....
Thanks for the post, I'm doing some research still. Seems 32" carnivores (spelling) are the recommended tires.

I'll be riding mud/dirt, and coal piles mainly. Some rocky conditions but mostly old trails. No sand or anything like that.

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Many_Gs

Many_Gs

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  1. Talon X4
Go big! Just make sure it is a aggressive tire for the mud. I turtled my x4 at RRB last year. Tire choice is critical. Maybe some chrome would help with the larger tires?
What does it mean to turtle?

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Hometeam

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I ride east coast stuff Tennessee, Kentucky WV and the Terra Masters have been awesome. They are light which helps with power loss. I run them in a 32" on a +38 offset system 3 wheel. The combo weighs in at 56lbs and at 10psi measures around 31" or so. They grip and rip. They have done great in everything for me. I have rubbed maybe 3-5 times at full lock and full stuff. It is on a spot that it is not doing anything to the wheel well at all. I notice very little power loss 1-3. I do a lot of the hardest trails anywhere we go and it climbs everything. I have never had it bog on me on those trails. IMG 20200904 170419
 
Montecresto

Montecresto

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Thanks for the post, I'm doing some research still. Seems 32" carnivores (spelling) are the recommended tires.
I ride the Rockies, 8,000’ and up and had difficulties with the stock 28’s and of course the 30’s compounded my problems...but I had to have the extra clearance...

I’ll be getting the 25% IGR from Reduction Boss to compensate. You will notice a difference with 32’s, but again, at the elevations you’ll be riding, it won’t be a problem....
 
Rntalonr

Rntalonr

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I'm lookin at the xtr370s in 30 or 32in for my R. I ride ohio. will I have to do a flash on my transmission for the tire size? Or will I be good with just puting them on and sending it
 
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PaulF

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I'm lookin at the xtr370s in 30 or 32in for my R. I ride ohio. will I have to do a flash on my transmission for the tire size? Or will I be good with just puting them on and sending it
No trans tune required. It may shift a little "wrong" at first but the DCT has adaptive learning. After you manually shift for a while, the DCT will learn your driving habits and adapt.

I run 30" paddles at the dunes and the DCT has even adapted to the sand pretty good in Sport mode (I only use Sport at the dunes). At first my R would upshift at the worst possible time (need to keep the RPM up in the sand) and I constantly found myself overriding and downshifting. The DCT learned my "Sport" habits and has since adapted fairly well. I can now ride all day in Sport and hardly ever manually shift anymore. Only time I cannot use Sport is climbing a big hill and I have to use manual for that to keep the wheel spin correct.

I have driven a couple other machines with 32's and they also seem to have adapted pretty well although at my altitude (5,000+ feet) they rarely hit 6th gear because the altitude + 32's rob so much power. Drove an R with 35's up here and it was a total dog at this altitude. The guy ended up pulling them and putting on 30's instead and is now very happy.

Highest point in Ohio is about 1500 feet so you should be fine with 32's or maybe even up to 35's.
 
Rntalonr

Rntalonr

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No trans tune required. It may shift a little "wrong" at first but the DCT has adaptive learning. After you manually shift for a while, the DCT will learn your driving habits and adapt.

I run 30" paddles at the dunes and the DCT has even adapted to the sand pretty good in Sport mode (I only use Sport at the dunes). At first my R would upshift at the worst possible time (need to keep the RPM up in the sand) and I constantly found myself overriding and downshifting. The DCT learned my "Sport" habits and has since adapted fairly well. I can now ride all day in Sport and hardly ever manually shift anymore. Only time I cannot use Sport is climbing a big hill and I have to use manual for that to keep the wheel spin correct.

I have driven a couple other machines with 32's and they also seem to have adapted pretty well although at my altitude (5,000+ feet) they rarely hit 6th gear because the altitude + 32's rob so much power. Drove an R with 35's up here and it was a total dog at this altitude. The guy ended up pulling them and putting on 30's instead and is now very happy.

Highest point in Ohio is about 1500 feet so you should be fine with 32's or maybe even up to 35's.
Thanks good to know that helps alot
 
U

Ugly

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I ran my stock tires 'to death' because I'm cheap frugal. The stockers are also a bit wimpy as far as puncture resistance. A larger diameter buys you additional ground clearance, 30" tires get you ONE inch. But they also increase the lever arm against which your gearing has to work (lever arm - distance from axle centerline to the ground). With our Talons, that's not an easy fix, we're geared and don't get to change a few clutch weights/ramps to make up for tire size changes like the CVT guys. I've been satisfied with my 30"ers and I ride over 13k feet occasionally. :oops:

Something we get to deal with is the DCT bog and larger tires make it worse. WTF is that?!?! Our idle speed is 1500 rpm and the clutch starts to engage at 1800, there just isn't any torque down there and the engine can't 'go'. A simple 'bump' is usually enough to get things going.

I caught it on video at 25:15 minutes here - (posted before for those taking notes 😊)
Great video. I love my Garmin camera because of the overlays like you show in your video. Thanks
 
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