P700 LED Light Bar

[Rexter]

Just bought the oem aux switchplate with the aux fuse box. Researching into purchasing an LED light bar and I notice the max amp circuit is 10amps and that’s the heater connection in that aux fuse box. That tells me the max wattage I can safely use in that circuit is 120 watts. Am I missing something? Some of you guys are hooking up 50” 240 watt lights? I’m guessing you are hooking them straight to the battery with 12g wire? School me please...

 

[Admin]

 

[Neohio]

Are you familiar with wiring a relay?
Use the Honda switch to trip a relay, which in turn sends what available power is needed for the light bar.

 

[Rexter]

Are you familiar with wiring a relay?
Use the Honda switch to trip a relay, which in turn sends what available power is needed for the light bar.

I see most of the lights come with harnesses and relays. Guess I’ll have to look at a wiring diagram to understand it better. The 10 amps must be for the control circuit only and I’m guessing the relay acts as switch to allow battery power to the light and not back through the control circuit?

 

[Neohio]

I see most of the lights come with harnesses and relays. Guess I’ll have to look at a wiring diagram to understand it better. The 10 amps must be for the control circuit only and I’m guessing the relay acts as switch to allow battery power to the light and not back through the control circuit?

I don't have any personal experience with the Honda acc panel. So please do not take my opinion as gospel.
A standard 30/40 amp Bosch relay will not take 10 amps to switch.

 

[ohanacreek]

Just bought the oem aux switchplate with the aux fuse box. Researching into purchasing an LED light bar and I notice the max amp circuit is 10amps and that’s the heater connection in that aux fuse box. That tells me the max wattage I can safely use in that circuit is 120 watts. Am I missing something? Some of you guys are hooking up 50” 240 watt lights? I’m guessing you are hooking them straight to the battery with 12g wire? School me please...

If you're using a amazon special or if that 50" light bar was under a $400 light bar hook it up and see what its ACTUALLY drawing you might not need a relay. My 40" '240W" dual row only drew about 4amps, compared to my 20" single row Rough Country that draws @7amps, and puts out probably 2-3 times the light, which is right in line with what its supposed to draw. The Amazon specials are usually "incandescent or halogen equivalent" not their actual draw. I had some of the Amazon special pod lights that were supposed to be 18w each they were 18w a pair and drew 1.2amps, I replaced them with Rough County X5 that draw 25w EACH and put out at least 5times the light. I spent about $250 for the Rough Country and have 3-4 times the light output of what I spend $120 for on the Amazon specials. The amount of room they take up is significantly less as well.






Vs

 

[ohanacreek]

And FYI I will say with near fact that these are the BEST light bar/sound bar mounts you will find for a round bar. They are only $15. My 20lb WetSounds bar hasn’t moved with them holding it and my previous light bars never budged. While all of the amazon mounts never stayed put with even a light 7” bar mounted.

 

[Rexter]

And FYI I will say with near fact that these are the BEST light bar/sound bar mounts you will find for a round bar. They are only $15. My 20lb WetSounds bar hasn’t moved with them holding it and my previous light bars never budged. While all of the amazon mounts never stayed put with even a light 7” bar mounted.

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Yeah. I bought a 32” Auxbeam Honeycomb 120 watt light...we’ll see. I have the oem split windshield so I’m severely limited on mounting locations. My plan is to fab a round bar and weld it to each a-piller in the little open spot there is at the top. The bar will go across just in front of the windshield and just below the roof lip. No matter where I put the light it’s going to mean fabbing something. Honda just didn’t give us many options for mounting like other manufacturers. The 50”-52” with a-piller brackets is their only non-home fab, window option. The forward roof top roll-bar is too far back to mount anything too and if you have a window you’ll have to make cuts.

 

[ohanacreek]

Yeah. I bought a 32” Auxbeam Honeycomb 120 watt light...we’ll see. I have the oem split windshield so I’m severely limited on mounting locations. My plan is to fab a round bar and weld it to each a-piller in the little open spot there is at the top. The bar will go across just in front of the windshield and just below the roof lip. No matter where I put the light it’s going to mean fabbing something. Honda just didn’t give us many options for mounting like other manufacturers. The 50”-52” with a-piller brackets is their only non-home fab, window option. The forward roof top roll-bar is too far back to mount anything too and if you have a window you’ll have to make cuts.

I bought the accessory bumper just so I had a place to mount something on my 1000.

On my 700 here’s what I did (progression)

 

[Rexter]

I bought the accessory bumper just so I had a place to mount something on my 1000.

On my 700 here’s what I did (progression)

View attachment 84927 View attachment 84928 View attachment 84929 View attachment 84930 View attachment 84931

I see you’ve got a different window and can mount directly to it. No such luck with mine. Good picks.

 

[Rexter]

I bought the accessory bumper just so I had a place to mount something on my 1000.

On my 700 here’s what I did (progression)

View attachment 84927 View attachment 84928 View attachment 84929 View attachment 84930 View attachment 84931

I bought a wrap kit and did this myself...

 

[Rexter]

Got an Auxbeam 32” 120 watt lightbar and I’m going to fab my own brackets since I can’t find any on the web. I wrote Honda and told them they need to come up with these for the 700’s:

1. An auxiliary battery box
2. A bar under the roof to mount LED’s
3. A aux fuse box with 20amp connectors

The more of us that write them the better our chances of them coming up with something we don’t have to fab ourselves. I did get a response that said they would look into it.

 

[Rexter]

Got an Auxbeam 32” 120 watt lightbar and I’m going to fab my own brackets since I can’t find any on the web. I wrote Honda and told them they need to come up with these for the 700’s:

1. An auxiliary battery box
2. A bar under the roof to mount LED’s
3. A aux fuse box with 20amp connectors

The more of us that write them the better our chances of them coming up with something we don’t have to fab ourselves. I did get a response that said they would look into it.

One company I wrote, “SidebySide stuff” said if an item isn’t out already it most likely won’t ever be. Worth a try anyway.

 

[Tflynn]

One company I wrote, “SidebySide stuff” said if an item isn’t out already it most likely won’t ever be. Worth a try anyway.

Yeah Honda (especially small bores) doesn’t get much love from the aftermarket. You’ll find you have to make a lot of your own accessories. At first I found this frustrating, but now I take a lot of pride in the custom things I’ve built. My 700 is truly one of a kind!

 

[Rexter]

Yeah Honda (especially small bores) doesn’t get much love from the aftermarket. You’ll find you have to make a lot of your own accessories. At first I found this frustrating, but now I take a lot of pride in the custom things I’ve built. My 700 is truly one of a kind!

Yeah, I spent 2-days with multimeters and continuity testers getting my back-lit switches working. Honda doesn’t pre-wire for them. Had to fab brackets for all my lights. They don’t make it easy.

 

[Rexter]

So just a follow-up for anyone interested. I said previously that I bought the AuxBeam 32” Honeycomb led bar rated @ 120watts (10amps) and that I was concerned about going over 10amps. Well...I turned it on after installing and it dropped my voltage 1-volt, which (by ohms law) meant my amps were at 10.8 and it, in fact, blew the fuse in about 30-seconds. I will say this about the light...It’s not just bright, It’s INSANELY bright! It was so bright and clear, I had to figure out a way to make it work. For now...I’ve over-fused it because I’m not worried about burning something up at less than an amp. Once I get the dual battery system installed I’ll run it through a fuse block. AuxBeam lights are what they are rated at. Got four 18w pods and they’re bright too.