P1000 Main battery drain since installing tru isolator

[Melvin35]

So since I’ve installed this I’ve been having issues with my main battery draining. Isn’t the whole point to protect your main battery and have your 2nd battery be the sacrificial one if one is to drain. The main atv terminals are hooked up to the main battery, and the isolator.

Anyone had any issues like this? I haven’t done extensive digging but, kind of annoyed that the whole point of paying for this kit was to protect my main, and the mains the only one dying

 

[Admin]

 

[trigger]

How old is the main?

 

[bumperm]

If your main battery is original, be aware that apparently due to Covid related supply chain issues, Honda had batteries sitting on the shelf or installed in vehicles that they could not finish and deliver due to a lack of other critical parts. These batteries then sat on the shelf and were apparently not properly maintained, charged every 6 months or more often. Did your sxs get one of these already half-dead batteries? My '21 did, and the battery went Tango Uniform in less than a year when it should easily have lasted 4 or more years.

 

[Hondasxs]

So since I’ve installed this I’ve been having issues with my main battery draining. Isn’t the whole point to protect your main battery and have your 2nd battery be the sacrificial one if one is to drain. The main atv terminals are hooked up to the main battery, and the isolator.

Anyone had any issues like this? I haven’t done extensive digging but, kind of annoyed that the whole point of paying for this kit was to protect my main, and the mains the only one dying

Yes. But not to the point people think.
There is no solution to leaving your key on or a mis-wired (but appearing to work) unit.

A proper isolated secondary accessory system will 100% keep the factory battery at a oem load state.

Without data on your install it's hard to provide any assistance.

Also, if your battery is old. Connecting a new battery has been known to cause failure.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[Scoop]

Improper installation will cause issues, yes.

 

[Remington]

If your main battery is original, be aware that apparently due to SCAMDEMIC related supply chain issues, Honda had batteries sitting on the shelf or installed in vehicles that they could not finish and deliver due to a lack of other critical parts. These batteries then sat on the shelf and were apparently not properly maintained, charged every 6 months or more often. Did your sxs get one of these already half-dead batteries? My '21 did, and the battery went Tango Uniform in less than a year when it should easily have lasted 4 or more years.

All fixed for ya.

 

[Hondasxs]

Following up on this. The below will give complete factory system isolation to the primary.

1 positive - Main battery to isolator.
1 positive - Isolator to second battery.
1 ground - from second battery to main battery (or frame)
* no other added connections to main battery *

Also need the 1 small black wire on the isolator back to any ground point.

The dual volt meter system will have a primary connection at the isolator for voltage check. This is small draw and shouldn't be of concern.

All accessories should be connected to the second battery via a large amp relay.

Trigger this relay via a switch powered via the second battery.

If you trigger the relay via a key-on method without the machine running, then you are deflating your main.

Double check all that and you should be isolated.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[DRZRon1]

So since I’ve installed this I’ve been having issues with my main battery draining. Isn’t the whole point to protect your main battery and have your 2nd battery be the sacrificial one if one is to drain. The main atv terminals are hooked up to the main battery, and the isolator.

Anyone had any issues like this? I haven’t done extensive digging but, kind of annoyed that the whole point of paying for this kit was to protect my main, and the mains the only one dying

hi - well this is frustrating

suggestion:

-test main battery
-sketch out how you wired everything
-post pics of your install
-what accessories do you have - show on sketch
-why did u need a 2nd battery ?
-what does the blue lite do on the isolator
-do you have a wireless winch remote
-can you check voltage and write it down on both batteries every 2-3 hours
-what happens when you disconnect the 2nd battery system

hate to be the hooded man, batteries aren't long for the world once they have been fully discharged multiple times

we are here to help, but need details as internet troubleshooting is difficult but complaining with no detail isn't productive

 

[Melvin35]

How old is the main?

My main is < 1 year old

 

[Melvin35]

If your main battery is original, be aware that apparently due to Covid related supply chain issues, Honda had batteries sitting on the shelf or installed in vehicles that they could not finish and deliver due to a lack of other critical parts. These batteries then sat on the shelf and were apparently not properly maintained, charged every 6 months or more often. Did your sxs get one of these already half-dead batteries? My '21 did, and the battery went Tango Uniform in less than a year when it should easily have lasted 4 or more years.

I have an aftermarket battery

 

[Melvin35]

I have no idea why my
Email never notified me of responses here I am not ignoring you guys. Going through responses now, sorry.

 

[bumperm]

Disregard this paragraph, corrected in a follow-on post:

Do you have a multimeter that will measure current? If so, you can disconnect the positive lead from the main battery, then connect the meter between the Tru and the lead from the battery. This will allow you to see if there's any parasitic current draw going through the Tru. Note that this test should be done after the vehicle has been sitting idle for a bit and/or the main battery voltage is under 13 volts to be sure the Tru isn't connecting the two batteries.

Using the same current testing method can easily find and trace any other parasitic loads. Simply pull the fuse to the circuit in question and connect the meter's leads across the fuse socket terminals. Of course, there will be some expected current going to "keep alive" things like radio/stereo memory, on-board "computer" stuff and the like.

 

[Melvin35]

Following up on this. The below will give complete factory system isolation to the primary.

1 positive - Main battery to isolator.
1 positive - Isolator to second battery.
1 ground - from second battery to main battery (or frame)
* no other added connections to main battery *

Also need the 1 small black wire on the isolator back to any ground point.

The dual volt meter system will have a primary connection at the isolator for voltage check. This is small draw and shouldn't be of concern.

All accessories should be connected to the second battery via a large amp relay.

Trigger this relay via a switch powered via the second battery.

If you trigger the relay via a key-on method without the machine running, then you are deflating your main.

Double check all that and you should be isolated.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

I think this may be my issue. I have my f terminal block grounded to the main battery ground. I’m gonna grab a bus and ground it to the frame instead. I got that main ground post a little overloaded with connections so it’s probably coming loose.

 

[Hondasxs]

I think this may be my issue. I have my f terminal block grounded to the main battery ground. I’m gonna grab a bus and ground it to the frame instead. I got that main ground post a little overloaded with connections so it’s probably coming loose.

The main battery should not have any other wires added than the 1 extra wire going to the second battery ground post.
After that.... EVERYTHING should be connected to the second accessory side of things.

 

[bumperm]

OOps! Previous post should read:

"Do you have a multimeter that will measure current? If so, you can disconnect the positive lead from the main battery to the Tru, then connect the meter between the Tru and the lead from the battery. This will allow you to see if there's any parasitic current draw going through the Tru. Note that this test should be done after the vehicle has been sitting idle for a bit and/or the main battery voltage is under 13 volts to be sure the Tru isn't connecting the two batteries." Sorry, I was in a hurry.

 

[Melvin35]

The main battery should not have any other wires added than the 1 extra wire going to the second battery ground post.
After that.... EVERYTHING should be connected to the second accessory side of things.

Yeah I’m gonna redo my grounds off the main and see if that fixes it

 

[Melvin35]

OOps! Previous post should read:

"Do you have a multimeter that will measure current? If so, you can disconnect the positive lead from the main battery to the Tru, then connect the meter between the Tru and the lead from the battery. This will allow you to see if there's any parasitic current draw going through the Tru. Note that this test should be done after the vehicle has been sitting idle for a bit and/or the main battery voltage is under 13 volts to be sure the Tru isn't connecting the two batteries." Sorry, I was in a hurry.

I’m going to do this too. Thanks for the suggestion