P700 My Lighting and Power plan

[LCK_Boater]

So I have a couple of weeks to tinker on my pioneer. Looking for feedback on my plan.

I want to add:

• 52" Curved light bar
• LED strip lights to interior
• Rock lights
• 2 4ft lighted LED whips

I have a backup light from the site store and harbor freight winch today.

Plan is:

1. Remove the stock battery and add a full sized AGM battery under the drivers seat. (I have a plastic marine battery box I never used on the boat I was going to mount under there to hold it)
2. Leave backup light on accessory harness it came with
3. Run 4awg cables from the battery to the ground bolt and the post that the existing positive battery is connected to
4. Run second set of 4awg cables, positive to battery switch first then positive and negative to winch and a fuse block
5. fuse block to rocker switch panel with USB power and voltmeter for lights (winch has wireless remote so no rocker switch needed for it)

my parts list -
whip mounts - Tusk UTV Vertical Flag Mount
Amazon parts list - Amazon.com - Idea Lists

switch plate from PBR products

Any issues you see? I figure just turning off the battery switch whenever it is parked will keep things from accidentally getting left on. I can't see any of the LED's pulling a lot of power

 

[Admin]

 

[Hondasxs]

Winch should go directly to battery. And you sure you only want wireless. They tend to mess up and you know it will happen at the worst time.

Look at an adjustable angle whip mount. Ya they are $$ but your whips will beat against the ROPS and bust otherwise. Need to be tilted back a little bit. RB3offroad has some.

What is turning on the bus bar? Not that manual knob is it? You need to look at a large relay.

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[LCK_Boater]

Winch should go directly to battery. And you sure you only want wireless. They tend to mess up and you know it will happen at the worst time.

Look at an adjustable angle whip mount. Ya they are $$ but your whips will beat against the ROPS and bust otherwise. Need to be tilted back a little bit. RB3offroad has some.

What is turning on your accessories? Not that manual knob is it? You running relays? Fuses?

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I have the wired winch remote I can plug in if the wireless fails so I am good there. Just unplug the wireless module and plug in the wired controller.

Good call on the mounts for the whips and running the winch straight to the battery.

 

[Alan_Vander]

led strips dont cast alot of light i had 4 18" ones on my 700-4 facing up its a good accent light but if you want an accent light and be able to see buy an 8 pack of the rock lights and use a few turned up and let it bounce off the roof. so it isnt accidentally blinding you when you turn your head. that is if you have the honda roof.

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[LCK_Boater]

So I have modified my plan a bit. Rather than using a battery switch to turn on and off main power to the fuseblock that all the lights are connected to I bought a Stinger relay. My understanding is I put that relay inline on the positive coming from the battery before the fuseblock and use the key on power to trigger it. At that point anything that is connected to the fuse block will have power. I just installed the SuperATV powersteering kit also so I need key on power for it and can just terminate it on the fuse block and not vampire it to the key on wire.

 

[Hondasxs]

So I have modified my plan a bit. Rather than using a battery switch to turn on and off main power to the fuseblock that all the lights are connected to I bought a Stinger relay. My understanding is I put that relay inline on the positive coming from the battery before the fuseblock and use the key on power to trigger it. At that point anything that is connected to the fuse block will have power. I just installed the SuperATV powersteering kit also so I need key on power for it and can just terminate it on the fuse block and not vampire it to the key on wire.

Does the PS have primary battery linse also? or is this "key-on" the primary power?
If its the primary. I would put it on a fuse. but it should of came with a fuse???
If it's just the "trigger" wire, you can hook it to the small post on the stinger that has key-on power or anywhere after the stinger block.

 

[Vondy]

I know its a bit pricey up front, but this really simplifies things and is very versatile. Eliminates the need for all the relays, fuses, switches etc. I used on Talon and love it.

https://amzn.to/2ESIYza

 

[LCK_Boater]

Does the PS have primary battery linse also? or is this "key-on" the primary power?
If its the primary. I would put it on a fuse. but it should of came with a fuse???
If it's just the "trigger" wire, you can hook it to the small post on the stinger that has key-on power or anywhere after the stinger block.

Yes the PS has a primary to the battery and then just a key-one trigger wire.

 

[LCK_Boater]

I know its a bit pricey up front, but this really simplifies things and is very versatile. Eliminates the need for all the relays, fuses, switches etc. I used on Talon and love it.

https://amzn.to/2ESIYza

View attachment 160170 View attachment 160171

I wish I had seen that before I got started, I am down the path with a lot of my install done but that probably wouldn't have been that much more expensive than everything I bought.

 

[Vondy]

I wish I had seen that before I got started, I am down the path with a lot of my install done but that probably wouldn't have been that much more expensive than everything I bought.

Oh well. Yeah, I didnt know about it until I saw someone put it on a Talon. I am totally impressed with it.

Nice to see another semi local Talon owner on here. I am about 30 minutes north of Dayton, but get to the Lebanon area most Mondays for work.

 

[LCK_Boater]

Oh well. Yeah, I didnt know about it until I saw someone put it on a Talon. I am totally impressed with it.

Nice to see another semi local Talon owner on here. I am about 30 minutes north of Dayton, but get to the Lebanon area most Mondays for work.

I have a P700-4, still trying to convince my wife to let me upgrade to a Talon

 

[LCK_Boater]

I clearly didn't map this all out well enough, just realized my fuse block is only rated for up to 20A per circuit. Light bar says it is it is 648 watts. that means at 12v it pulls 54A. Being a cheap light bar I am guessing that it pulls no where near that but probably pulls more than 20A.

 

[Hondasxs]

So. In that case you should use a high draw relay and the switch will be the relay trigger.
You can just jump power from the switch light post unless you have it set to come on with headlights or something.

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[Alan_Vander]

jeez what kind of light bar is that i havent seen one over 200 watt

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[Alan_Vander]

light bar with 54 amp draw needs a selenoid cause relay doesnt go that high

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[Hondasxs]

jeez what kind of light bar is that i havent seen one over 200 watt

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Ya, but its most likely 20a or less actual.

Check this one out. Claimed 1368 watts. Thats 114 amps. Lol.


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[NTCPrezJB]

Ya, but its most likely 20a or less actual.

Check this one out. Claimed 1368 watts. Thats 114 amps. Lol.
View attachment 160196

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They forgot the decimal point. lol

 

[Alan_Vander]

hopefully cause the 700 only puts out 450 watts charging. lol

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[Alan_Vander]

or they did the 12 volt amps x 24 volts iv seen them do that before

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[LCK_Boater]

Reading the reviews on Amazon someone tested it. Draw was 9.8 amps. Lol I think I am good.