New MudBuster Flares

joeymt33

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The great guys at MudBuster were kind enough to send a prototype rear set of flares for the Pioneer 700-4. This new set has better coverage and uses the same mounting locations. It is a little more difficult to install however as it requires the the installer to disconnect the rear section of ROPS. Pictures speak louder than me, here they are.....

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Here is the current production set laid over the prototype set.
49d6aa148e9589ef5bdbd773479c4453

Here they are SXS
82191db79b24ef46a6c063baed9e3ea5
 
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joeymt33

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Here are some differences in the installation compared to the current production model. The following pics show how to disconnect the ROPS for the installation.

You will need to disconnect the two fasteners for the lower disconnect point on each side.
4203da7285b28ec7203f49e6718bb0d3also disconnect the upper connection on both sides. I only removed the nuts and left the bolts I the upper locations.
96727fe111a959e526e43ee9410f8a97
 
joeymt33

joeymt33

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A helper would be a good idea to assist in pulling the roll bar out to slip in the fender flares. This clip shows how it did it.

 
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joeymt33

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Here they are installed.
4a508ad9964bda182d04f1ce99453178

Edad02ebcda63d415666182d7f83455d

Db228a36f522a3ea21e92259bfe9e027

They still allow the bed to dump...
3d4b09674bbcde7dca7fd0e620ac31b6
 
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joeymt33

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That little hole looks innocent, but it's big enough to allow a lot of mud to slip through. This rear set of flares will need some modification to earn the mud buster name in my opinion.
92561ebbbb2112679fb0a6f08bde36ca

The mud slung all the way up the roof
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This set of flares is better than the current production model in my opinion. It's not too hard to install and offers MUCH better coverage. One strange and minor thing about this set is it didn't come with the finishing touches of the edge trim. That's not a big deal as I will probably get some locally.

I will make some mods and some
Recommendations to to the great team at MudBuster and see how it goes. You guys input would be valuable as well.

I will try to find a shifter boot that will fill the hole and still allow the bed to dump.

The front prototype set will come next. Stay tuned.

Joe
 
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UTV-MudBusters

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Thanks for your input, Joey.

I apologize for the lack of trim. I should have been more specific when I passed it onto production after your fenders came off the CNC. The trim is now optional on all of our kits, so if it's not included in the SKU, the guys won't install it before packaging.

In my opinion, the kit performs very well compared to not having any protection. Again, this was one of our prototypes, but if any of you guys want a rear set like the one we sent Joey for testing, we can sell them for the same price as our standard kit. It's too bad Honda placed the roll bar in the way, as it would have made things a lot easier (and cleaner) if it were a different design. Please let us know if you have any questions or concerns.

-Chad
 
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joeymt33

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I finally got some time at home and got back to thinkin about filling that gap in the rear flare.

Here is a short video of one idea. It looks kinda funny but works well. It also doesn't require any permanent modification.


I will still probably try a shifter boot. I want some input from you guys as well. Which way is the best? What other ideas you got?
 
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Hondasxs

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Ya.. IDK about that. Good R&D concept idea... and it works. Just not pleasing to me.
What about brushes like on industrial garage doors? But, that would wear at the paint over time wouldn't it.

Hummmm... Lol
 
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joeymt33

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Thanks for the reply. I tried the brushes on the last set of flares and I still have them. They worked good. Here's a pic.

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675317e0c17a70b6d10510c4f1301696
 
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bobbyhill

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I like the direction you are going with it @joeymt33 ! here is my idea, use the same material as you are using in the video but instead of tiring to attach it to the roll bar just attach it to the flares in the bed down and locked position. use a single pop rivet in one side and two cam locks on the other side. that way when you need to use your dump bed you use a flat head screw driver and unlock the two cam locks and swing that piece out of the way (because of the rivet you have a pivot point) so that you can fully tilt your dump bed. Or if the company wanted to do the same thing but let the piece slide (instead of swing) and use a cam lock for locking it in mud guard position when not using a dump bed. but I think the slide method would require some wide tracks or groves to be molded in. (cam lock as in the pic for the people that has never used one.) they come in flat , Philip headed and wind up clock key style. they spring makes them perfect. we use them on airplanes helicopters and the stay fastened. it should be trail bullet proof!!Ctrp 0606 fast 12 z2bfasteners and connectors2bcam lock parts
 
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bobbyhill

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:DMud Busters my idea is for sale, Real cheep! For the cost of two kits one for me and one for HONDASXS.com to be a prize for ROTM (ride of the month). Either way thank you for making products for our toys!!!!
 
joeymt33

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I use my dump bed around the property a lot. I like your idea for the occasional "dumper" but I at dump almost every day. .

So far the brush has been best. I'll be in MS this week and LA next week. Maybe I'll get some time to try a couple more things when I return. Those cam are pretty cool, we use something similar but it's a push button style instead of a twist. Thanks for the idea, those may make it into the next prototype.

Joe
 
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sorry for the crude drawing, but could you try something like this ?

you could rivet two pieces of "c" channel on the edges of the elongated hole and have a piece of plastic that would slide in them.
you would need to have a loose fitting hole in the piece of plastic where the roll bar goes thru it,for movement !
 

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