P1000 New Springs on Your Fox Shocks

[301]

WP shocks on KTM/Husqvarna/GasGas have used the rubber plug for years with no issues. Probably the least of my worries in life.

 

[Admin]

 

[Tramguage1]

That's a nice tool @Tramguage1

I might consider something like that if I was going to take on a lot of shock work, for sure.

I thought so also.
But I have done at least 5 sets of shocks since i got it.

 

[P1K5Dave]

I thought so also.
But I have done at least 5 sets of shocks since i got it.

You have a link to where you bought it?

 

[ToddACimer]

Really nice write up. A lot of people will appreciate this information in 1 place

 

[P1K5Dave]

Thanks @ToddACimer

You've been a big help to me throughout my figuring this stuff out!

 

[Tramguage1]

You have a link to where you bought it?

 

[PJon]

I mentioned tapping the preload nut around with an old heavy screwdriver and a hammer...of course, there's a tool designed to do this - it's called a Spanner Wrench, but I don't have the appropriate one for these shocks.

I've shopped them, but everything I've seen raises my suspicion that I'll blow money on a special tool, and it won't work well in the confined spaces I'm working in.

So tap tap it goes.

If any of you has one that works really well, especially in the rear where there's little room, I'd be interested.

The two scanner wrenches that come with the 814 shocks work well. The only problem is having to take the rear wheels off to make the adjustments. After reading several threads, it sounds like the 814’s have had several different spring rates recommended over the years for 1000-5’s. Mine are now 350# front and 400# rear. BTW, I do realize you are talking about Fox shocks and it is a great write-up.

 

[PJon]

Cool 301. That makes sense, given that the fronts can be preloaded by hand. It'll be nice to not have to do the whole strap routine 8 freaking times (twice for each shock, remove spring, install spring.)

@P1K5Dave Do you still have the measurements length wise for your old 801 shocks. I’m thinking the springs are about 12” long 350# front and 400# rear. If that’s the case, I can probably go with lighter springs but longer to maintain my ride height but soften the ride. Thanks for any input you may have, my shocks are the 801 three ways.

 

[P1K5Dave]

I remember they were 350 front and 400 rear, but I don't know what the spring length was.

 

[PJon]

I remember they were 350 front and 400 rear, but I don't know what the spring length was.

Thanks, I guess I can take one off and measure. Seems to be plenty of space left on the shock body for a longer spring.

 

[301]

You won’t have to take them off. Just measure and round up to the nearest two inch increment. Springs come in 10,12,14, 16” lengths. Highly unlikely that it has more than 2” of preload against it.

 

[PJon]

You won’t have to take them off. Just measure and round up to the nearest two inch increment. Springs come in 10,12,14, 16” lengths. Highly unlikely that it has more than 2” of preload against it.

I believe you're correct on that. There was no problem installing the springs and I now have at least 4” of threads showing. I believe a two inch longer spring at a lower rating would work well to give a softer ride. The current shocks (814’s) are better than stock, but are still a little stiff.

 

[P1K5Dave]

I don't think you really need to go to a longer spring to soften your ride, just a softer spring.

I don't believe a longer length will do anything. Someone correct me if I'm wrong...

 

[301]

I don't think you really need to go to a longer spring to soften your ride, just a softer spring.

I don't believe a longer length will do anything. Someone correct me if I'm wrong...

You are correct. The spring doesn’t know how long it is, only how stiff it is and it only needs to be long enough to absorb the travel length of the shock without coil bind.

 

[the_desert_wanderer]

P1K5Dave --
Thank you very much for doing this article. I have just completed the project on mine following your info. Everything came out perfect!! I couldn't wait to get rid of the red arms on my LE. Went with HCR front arms, 15" beadlocks, 30x10 BFG's, blasted and powdercoated OE rear arms, new single rate Eibach springs all the way around. Can't wait to put it in the dirt tomorrow. Thanks again for a great write up. All of your info was spot on!!

 

[301]

So I finally got mine sorted…for the most part.

The list;
SATV Arms - Front and Rear
Fox QS3 shocks
System 3 XTR370 30x10-14

The arms come pre-adjusted for the stock suspension and they were pretty damn close out of the box. I only needed to adjust the right front to get camber correct but for some reason they threw the toe out of whack. All was good until I threw the new shocks on. With 1” of lift I had to go back through and re-adjust everything to get the camber right. They’re not perfect but as good as they can get (I know that sounds bad but they’re close, I’m just particular) with the coarse thread that come on the adjustable ends.

On the initial drive I was convinced that something was way out of whack. Driving in turf mode about 40mph and let off, the car would become totally unhinged and sway like crazy. Back to the shop for more measuring and by blind luck found that the adjuster on the passenger rear was clocked wrong so it was on the “Firm” setting. After the change it feels just like it did with the stock arms only rides 10x better. Small chop and rain ruts are eaten up with aplomb, instilling confidence in the machine and making it feel like it should have off the showroom floor. As for the 30’s, they’re heavy and it’s noticeable but not as bad as I feared it would be. It’s like putting bigger tires on a pickup, sure you notice a little difference but eventually you grow to like it. The gearing is way better with 30” tires, pulling each gear longer instead of shifting through them all in the first 50yds. It runs at a comfortable 4000rpm at 40mph, still quiet and not feeling like it’s hurting the motor. Top speed run via GPS netted 62mph. IMO, Honda should have lowered first and second gears and introduced the Pioneer with 30” tires. It makes the DCT trans feel so much better.

In the end, it was a pretty steep investment but I was at a point where I either wanted to sell it and get something with better clearance or build it. Im glad I spent the money and built it, I doubt I would have been happy going back to a belt. I just can’t stand the all day noise and drone.

 

[P1K5Dave]

Yeah, you definitely want to find your preload / ride height first. Run it 20-50 miles to break in the springs.

Then set your camber, followed by alignment.

 

[P1K5Dave]

Went with HCR front arms, 15" beadlocks, 30x10 BFG's, blasted and powdercoated OE rear arms...

Oddly, I had never heard of HCR before your post. I thought I had read about everyone building suspension for the Pioneer until then.

 

[Adam490]

Oddly, I had never heard of HCR before your post. I thought I had read about everyone building suspension for the Pioneer until then.

Most Pioneer fellers aren't in for the HCR price tag so you don't hear about it very often. Really nice stuff though.

Great write up BTW, just catching up on this thread.

 

[301]

Most Pioneer fellers aren't in for the HCR price tag so you don't hear about it very often. Really nice stuff though.

Great write up BTW, just catching up on this thread.

HCR is pricey but it’s the best of the best. Once you’ve seen it, everything else looks cheap. Unfortunately, it’s out of my budget.