P1000 Oil Change Thoughts...

[William]

So I did my yearly oil change this past weekend, and here are a couple things I wanted to get out there so people are aware. One... after finishing, mine had a leak at the engine oil filter housing. So I had to replace it with my spare. No visible damage to o-ring. So I will probably replace it and the dct o-ring every time now. 2... I swapped to 10w40 this time, and there is a big difference in thickness of the oil. So when I checked the oil level by the manual instructions, it took a couple of minutes longer for the oil to drain back down and register on the dip stick... With 10w30, at 2 minutes with the engine shut off, the oil was pretty much all settled... 40 weight took more like 4 minutes. At 10 minutes the level was up to the max fill line on the dip stick. I repeated the oil check procedure 5 or 6 times over the weekend to be sure. Whoever is responsible for the oil level having to be checked the way it is needs to be kicked in the coin purse...

 

[Admin]

 

[Wormz72]

Hello William, question for you. Did you check the oil after the machine was at operating temperature, or when it was cold? Just interested because of the additional drain back time. Since both of your oils are 10W, they have the exact same winter/cold viscosity of 10 so they should both act the same at cold/low temp. The 40 weight would only have a higher viscosity at operating temperatures. Just curious.

 

[CID]

I agree that Honda's oil check recommendation is BS. Why would I go to all that trouble? I want to check my oil before a ride, after the bike has been sitting, usually overnight. I changed my oil, let it 'settle' and checked the level on the dipstick. I'll use that mark from now on.

Note that this is on my Talon but they'll be the same AFAIK.

 

[Hondasxs]

Don't disagree with you on the funny oil check procedures. Lol.

They want to make sure you can check it in short time.

Having to sit an hour to get the correct oil level would be even stupider.

 

[William]

Hello William, question for you. Did you check the oil after the machine was at operating temperature, or when it was cold? Just interested because of the additional drain back time. Since both of your oils are 10W, they have the exact same winter/cold viscosity of 10 so they should both act the same at cold/low temp. The 40 weight would only have a higher viscosity at operating temperatures. Just curious.

Both ways. The 10w40 is noticeably thicker out of the bottle... No doubt about that.

 

[CID]

Don't disagree with you on the funny oil check procedures. Lol.

They want to make sure you can check it in short time.

Having to sit an hour to get the correct oil level would be even stupider.

Point taken. 👍

But I've never checked my oil during a ride (50 years of dirt bikes not SxSs). My Talon sits on the trailer in the garage, I walk by it dozens of times a week, checking the oil cold, on a moments notice works better for me than running for 3-5 minutes and then letting it sit for 2-3 minutes (per the manual) - that's hilariously inaccurate IMO.

I do wish they'd put a sight glass on the crankcase like many motorcycles have, it's much more convenient and you can see if the oil is milky from water intrusion like submersion or condensation.

 

[William]

Just checked it on my lunch break, from sitting overnight, per the manual instructions, and it was reading low... LOL... Added a little more... Finally got it right. Looks like if you’re not checking the oil starting with a cold engine, it’s pointless and inaccurate.