P1000 Oil change

[Skjerv40]

OK I’m going to test my theory that there is no stupid questions here. I did the initial 100 mile oil change and now I’m going to do the 600 mile complete oil change. I cannot for the death of me get the oil drain
plugs out. When I changed it initially I just used a ratchet to tighten the plugs back up making sure not to strip them. Neither one will budge now even with An impact wrench. I even snapped off part of the protective cast iron shroud Around the back plug. I really don’t want to hurt anything other than stripping the plugs and am looking for some advice or if there is a trick I missing? I’m in a bit of a panic now. It has it been running hot or anything. I constantly check the oil in the temperature. Please help.


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[Admin]

 

[Neohio]

Pssst.....
Read your manual again, the oil change interval is 1200 miles.

 

[Skjerv40]

I realize that. The owners manual does talk about an initial 100 mile change and then a complete 600 mile change for a new machine. My dealership recommends a little earlier than 1200 also probably to try and make a little money but also because we do a lot of dusty road riding here. I have been losing a little oil somewhere also so I am wanting to change everything and make sure it’s sealed uptight to see if I can diagnose the issue. The stucco plugs are driving me crazy and making me second-guess myself after hundreds of oil changes on numerous vehicles in my life. I have said righty tighty and lefty loosy at least 10 times during this process.


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[Neohio]

All I can suggest is use a 6 point wrench or socket and tap it with a hammer to shock it loose.

 

[Skjerv40]

All I can suggest is use a 6 point wrench or socket and tap it with a hammer to shock it loose.

Thanks. I’m probably going to leave it alone for a while and see if I can get them to pop loose after a good ride.


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[Neohio]

This is from the service manual. It does not say change oil at 600.

 

[Skjerv40]

My dealer suggested I change the oil initially after the 100 mile break-in while just changing the main oil filter. He then suggested changing the oil with both filters at 600 miles. He then said to follow the maintenance schedule from there on out. There was a little cardboard leaflet with manual that suggested this. I would definitely be willing to take input from others but was under the impression to do with the dealership said to make sure I don’t void my warranty. If others had clarification or input I’d be gladly willing to take it. I have been getting my oil and filters Online at a discounted price anyway. All OEM products.


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[301]

This is from the service manual. It does not say change oil at 600.
View attachment 79698

Drain plugs won't get any looser in another 600 miles. The guy's having trouble with the plugs, not the interval.

 

[Skjerv40]

That’s OK. The drain plug question came from a moment of insanity. I’m sure everyone has had that mechanical maintenance issue where something is supposed to be a quick and easy 15 minutes and some stupid turns it into a nightmare That makes you doubt if you even remember which way you should turn the nut. I am actually more concerned about what people feel about the oil change intervals at this point. Thanks though.


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[popeye]

Get it good and hot, run it around up to temp. The heat might help with breaking it loose, and as others said make sure you are using a 6 point socket, get a longer ratchet and or a hammer


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[301]

That’s OK. The drain plug question came from a moment of insanity. I’m sure everyone has had that mechanical maintenance issue where something is supposed to be a quick and easy 15 minutes and some stupid turns it into a nightmare That makes you doubt if you even remember which way you should turn the nut. I am actually more concerned about what people feel about the oil change intervals at this point. Thanks though.


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You can't hurt anything (other than stripping out a drain plug, lol) by changing the oil before the recommended intervals. When I buy a new toy, I like to change the oil early as well just so I know that I'm doing my best to dump all of the contaminants from manufacturing and assembly processes before they have a chance to cause any undue wear.
Keep doing what you're doing.

 

[Mudwing]

All I can suggest is use a 6 point wrench or socket and tap it with a hammer to shock it loose.

Definitely a six point socket, maybe try a breaker bar and cheater?

 

[Eltobgi]

Just in case you didn’t have this

 

[pct]

Over the years of working with people on all types of things when laying on your back they have a tendacey to go the wrong way
with the wrench I have done it too hope you get them out The hammer tap way that Ne talked about almost always works

 

[Dasmoeturhead]

 

[NTCPrezJB]

Over the years of working with people on all types of things when laying on your back they have a tendacey to go the wrong way
with the wrench I have done it too hope you get them out The hammer tap way that Ne talked about almost always works

Anyone that claims they've never tried to turn a nut/bolt the wrong direction has either never worked on anything or is a liar.

 

[sporttrac4x4]

Try the hammer on a brakerbar and do it when it is cold don't run it at all.

 

[0860silverado]

OK I’m going to test my theory that there is no stupid questions here. I did the initial 100 mile oil change and now I’m going to do the 600 mile complete oil change. I cannot for the death of me get the oil drain
plugs out. When I changed it initially I just used a ratchet to tighten the plugs back up making sure not to strip them. Neither one will budge now even with An impact wrench. I even snapped off part of the protective cast iron shroud Around the back plug. I really don’t want to hurt anything other than stripping the plugs and am looking for some advice or if there is a trick I missing? I’m in a bit of a panic now. It has it been running hot or anything. I constantly check the oil in the temperature. Please help.


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The part about not budging with an impact wrench is scary. Cast aluminum threads (crankcase) are so soft, they'll deform pretty easily under the stress of steel threads (oil drain plug). Not fussing at you but when you're messing with aluminum threads, always Always ALWAYS use a torque wrench! Those plugs are designed to be used with a new crush washer every time they're reassembled so they don't need to be real tight to seal. I don't remember the ft lb spec but I would bet that when your torque wrench says "stop", you'll think "no way that's tight enough". But it is. As far as getting them out, I'd say remove your skid plate so you can get right to the heads with a six point closed end wrench and try to make the first tiny movement in the unscrew direction. If it budges a hair, then go back and forth, unscrewing a little more with each stroke. Hopefully it'll come out and not ruin your threads. Good luck!!

 

[Caper]

Wow. That’s scary. I really hope you get it figured out. I take mine to Honda for the maintenance. They change the oil, change both front and rear diff. And check everything. It’s worth the $200 Canadian for me. I’ve always done all my own maintenance but I’m getting older and don’t want the aggravation . Hope you figure it out.
Caper

 

[Mopower58]

Impact driver and a hammer.