P1000m5 Oil pressure light staying on after rebuild

Motor1

Motor1

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to the masses,
i have recently rebuilt my P1000 and it fired right up, however the oil light is staying on. there is definately oil pressure, however i don't have a gauge to see how much or little i have. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
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SlowPony46

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Could you have left the oil pressure sender unhooked or pinched the wires?
 
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snuffnwhisky

snuffnwhisky

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to the masses,
i have recently rebuilt my P1000 and it fired right up, however the oil light is staying on. there is definately oil pressure, however i don't have a gauge to see how much or little i have. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
71-85 psi @ 5,000 RPM @ 176 degs

I saw 110-130 psi for the clutch oil pressure. No spec in the book for it.
 
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SlowPony46

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To elaborate on my post above. I have no specific experience with working on this engine, but from my experience as a mechanic in general the first thing I would do is verify that the sending unit circuit is fine, make sure it’s connected and depending on how it is wired either open or jump the sender to see if the light goes out. If everything is fine there the next thing you’ll need to do is find a way to check the actual pressure with a mechanical gauge and go from there. Could be debris clogging the sender opening. Why was the engine rebuilt?
 
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Motor1

Motor1

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To elaborate on my post above. I have no specific experience with working on this engine, but from my experience as a mechanic in general the first thing I would do is verify that the sending unit circuit is fine, make sure it’s connected and depending on how it is wired either open or jump the sender to see if the light goes out. If everything is fine there the next thing you’ll need to do is find a way to check the actual pressure with a mechanical gauge and go from there. Could be debris clogging the sender opening. Why was the engine rebuilt?
The engine was rebuilt because Honda had previously rebuild it because two of the bolts from the motor mount on the driver side had broke in the block their solution was to replace the case therefore they split the case and supposedly put all new innards then 300 miles later I spun a rod bearing on the creek they claimed it was due to my mistakes because they showed where previous water into the head however there was no water in the oil so Several arguments later no conclusion so I decided to rebuild myself and then possibly there’s a clog the airport or I’ve taken sending out a unit out however I did not test it I will try that it’s a three prong oil sending unit the back of the motor or a clutch housing
 
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CumminsPusher

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Just curious but does it shift fine? Any error codes?
 
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Motor1

Motor1

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To elaborate on my post above. I have no specific experience with working on this engine, but from my experience as a mechanic in general the first thing I would do is verify that the sending unit circuit is fine, make sure it’s connected and depending on how it is wired either open or jump the sender to see if the light goes out. If everything is fine there the next thing you’ll need to do is find a way to check the actual pressure with a mechanical gauge and go from there. Could be debris clogging the sender opening. Why was the engine rebuilt?
I have located the problem. The pressure relief valve at the DCT cover was stuck. Removed the cover and unstuck it. Light is off.
 
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SlowPony46

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Awesome glad to hear it. So I assume it was stuck open relieving all pressure?
 
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CumminsPusher

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Actually it is on stands in the garage so have not put completely back together.
I assume mechanically it all is? All plugs and everything together?
 
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CumminsPusher

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yes sir the relief valve on the clutch housing was stuck closed. had to remove cover and valve body to free it. working great now.
Great news!
 
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