P1000 P.S.A announcement - check tie rod nut!!!

[Tramguage1]

This is for ALL P1K owners!
Please check the tie rod nuts on you ride. During the recent RRB to Windrock ride @knuckledeep and I were changing a rear axle on a machine at camp. We also checked the frontend after a front axle change in the dark the night before. We checked front alignment and all bolts. We found a loose tie od on the other side. So we started checking other rigs. We found 3 other loose tie rods out of 4 rigs.
So check the tie on these before your next ride!

 

[Admin]

 

[Delton]

I've lost count on how many times I've mentioned this as well. My driver's side has come loose twice. Honda had their head up their rear when they put locknuts on these instead of a castlenut.

 

[swsebek]

That goes for the 700 s as well.

 

[Tramguage1]

Wonder if a nylon locking nut would help?

 

[sharp]

A drop of blue thread locker will help.

 

[Tramguage1]

A drop of blue thread locker will help.

Only thing is yoh need to be able to remove on the trail with limited tools.
I' thinking nylon lock nut or castle nuts.
Also make sure the Vitter pin holes are pointing front to back. They are a bit$# to get them out on the trail.

 

[knuckledeep]

Take a pry bar or hammer like we used to get good seating pressure on it when tightning

 

[Ragnar406]

@Tramguage1 correct me if I am wrong but you are speaking about part number 23 below correct?

 

[knuckledeep]

@Tramguage1 correct me if I am wrong but you are speaking about part number 23 below correct?

View attachment 54743

Yes number 23 was loose from the factory on 4 machines we looked at this weekend

 

[ohanacreek]

Mine was loose when I first picked it up, it's a very good idea to look at as man connections, bolts, nuts, pins, and hoses and you can find on the machine and make sure it's all right.

 

[Miss_Oak]

I guess the 500 doesn't have all these problems ??

I hope honda realizes not everyone is so mechanical and clever as you guys. Trying to even be mechanical just sounds terrible!!! Haha I bought this thing to ride not to wrack my brain to correct all their mistakes.

 

[ToddACimer]

Thanks for the heads up. I'll have to look at mine.

In other news I put a new air filter on at 850 miles and realized Honda provided 2 o-ring seals with the new filter but I did not have 2 o-ring seals on from the factory. My intake was very clean but I'm assuming the o-rings are a good thing. Has anybody found their air box to not have the seals installed from the factory?

 

[Gator]

The jam nuts (22) were loose on my 700. The alignment gets real bad when these move.

 

[snuffnwhisky]

Mine were loose a while back and I swapped to castle nuts. Pretty sure it was a M12x1.25.

 

[snuffnwhisky]

Dorman Hex Nuts 13580 is what I ordered. Should be able to get them at a parts store. I did have to add a washer under it to get it lower in engage the cotter. Think the stock ball joint castle nut works also.

 

[swsebek]

A drop of blue thread locker will help.

All you need
The blue is easier to get loose.
Red will want some more help

 

[swsebek]

I guess the 500 doesn't have all these problems ??

I hope honda realizes not everyone is so mechanical and clever as you guys. Trying to even be mechanical just sounds terrible!!! Haha I bought this thing to ride not to wrack my brain to correct all their mistakes.

Yes miss Oaks you should check yours as well

 

[Gator]

Anyone one know the proper torque for these?

 

[snuffnwhisky]

If you run the tie rod loose for a while it can beat up the taper and wear the joint. If you do use locktight and the joint taper is loose, it can be aggravating to get the nut back off if the stud just spins when trying to loosen it. Not to hard to get it loose in the shop but on the trail might be another story. I've had to use a 4' pry bar or clamps on the joint to put pressure on the taper and an impact to get the nut off on a lot of trucks.

 

[Tramguage1]

If you run the tie rod loose for a while it can beat up the taper and wear the joint. If you do use locktight and the joint taper is loose, it can be aggravating to get the nut back off if the stud just spins when trying to loosen it. Not to hard to get it loose in the shop but on the trail might be another story. I've had to use a 4' pry bar or clamps on the joint to put pressure on the taper and an impact to get the nut off on a lot of trucks.

My thoughts exactly. We need to find a castle nut and use cotter pins.