Well, I just finished replacing two CV boots, one of the steering boots, several torn out skid plate bolts and the one leaking shock. I found a couple issues when I took everything apart that I think is important to share with all you guys that have done suspension mods- coilover, or air. I had two control arm bolts that are being 'sawed' through, and one of the holes in the frame mount for the control arms is being 'ovalled-out ( that's 'wallered-out' for us southerners), and one of the frame mounts is(was) being drilled through by the little teeth in the end of the bushing. These issues might be being caused by the increased motion that the control arms are seeing because of the shock change- coilover, or air shocks. So regardless of the type of shock mod you've done, you guys should check for these issues.
Now back to the leaking shock. I inspected the shock carefully and found that dirt gets packed under the air bladder, and essentially pulls it away from the tube it's sealed to. By 'dirt' I mean more like very fine dust that slowly built up the way it does when there's a small amount of oil residue on a piece of equipment that builds up slowly over time. It gets packed very hard as the air bladder rolls over it repeatedly. I had to scrape it out, and it was only about 1/16" thick. I have a feeling this is what causes these shocks to develop slow leaks in an automotive application as well. So here's some suggestions. First, jack up the machine so the shocks are fully extended. Hose em out, and maybe spray something like simple green up under the shell, and then get in there with a bristle brush and get them really clean, and rinse well. Installing shock 'boots' might be a good, or maybe a permanent solution. I have extra shocks, so I might try making some type of 'scraper seal' . At this point, keeping crap from building up is going to help, and keep in mind I've gotten about 700 miles on these shocks, with just this one leaking very slowly.
When I reassembled everything after replacing the CV boots, I greased the control arm bolts, and only tightened them to the point that they are just slightly snug to the frame mounts, and not squeezing the hell out the the mount and bushing(like they were), so that the arm can pivot on the bolt freely without chewing into the mount, and also not trying to pivot the bolt in the frame mounts, which should stop the sawing through thing. I'm ordering all new bolts and nuts today, and I'll change them before I go to H/M trails in the fall. I forgot to mention that all the notable wear is on the front end- almost nothing on the rear.