CID
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I think @Lil_Steve has the SATV rear window, mine isn't installed yet so I can't help.
I have the Tusk rear window, it looks like it mounts/fits very similar to the SATV one.
I found some old pics...
I have the SATV back window. Hope this angle helps 
highpocket74
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Thanks for the pics and I’ll see what I can do to accommodate a rear window. USPS is dragging their feet and I haven’t received my filter yet so that I can finalized the design.
highpocket74
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I worked on this project yesterday evening, basically cutting up my almost completed prototype to make changes to accommodate a rear windshield. I did get to a complete tack up but I didn't like the angles so I had to again redo some of the tubing but ran out of time yesterday. By the weekend I should be able to finish fitting and tacking then adding a mounting bracket. This first piece is ugly with all the rework!!! But the important thing is to get it to fit, to work, and look like I want it to look. The second version will be cleaner!
Sheetmetalfab
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That thin intake tubing often has a clear coating on it that needs removed before welding.
Easiest to do before cutting in the cut area and 1” back on each side.
The three most important aspects of successful welding in thin aluminum tubing.
1: tight fit up.
2: deburr inside and outside
3: clean, clean, clean
(Deburring gets rid of tiny pieces of aluminum that melt early before shielding gas completely purges the area and makes a sooty spot right where you want it to be clean)
highpocket74
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Thanks for the tips. This aluminum is a challenge! I'll get there eventually! It's the preferred material for what I want to accomplish.
CID
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Don't use Roloc pads etc. to clean alum!! - stainless brushes dedicated to alum only use. My favorite is a 3" stainless wire wheel in a variable speed drill so I can control it. You can see when the oxides have been removed.
sandbaja
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highpocket74
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Me too!! I'm a draftsman learning to weld on the most difficult material to weld, so I can make my ideas come to life! If it's critical I know real welders! I like the "figure it out part" on the mock-ups. Fitting parts is more mine thing. Drawing things and fabricating things are 2 different animals. My CAD mouse is much more cooperative than a TIG torch. I want to learn and I want to get good at fabrication because I've got many more ideas bouncing in my head waiting to come out.
CID
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Butt welding thin alum is MUCH easier if you can back it up, the tighter the fit, the better. In the case of a snorkel tube you'd need something round to fit inside, the closer to the ID of the alum tube the better - it doesn't have to be alum but it needs to be clean (no paint for instance).
A few pics of backing up, on much thicker and easier to weld material. You're also wanting mass which will help control the insanely rapid transfer of heat that alum has. Remember, the longer a bead you try to run, the hotter the alum will get, pedal down (less amps) as you go, better yet, short welds especially on thin butt welds.
Lots of clamps = lots of mass = heat sink -
The end project for the curious
A few pics of backing up, on much thicker and easier to weld material. You're also wanting mass which will help control the insanely rapid transfer of heat that alum has. Remember, the longer a bead you try to run, the hotter the alum will get, pedal down (less amps) as you go, better yet, short welds especially on thin butt welds.
Lots of clamps = lots of mass = heat sink -
The end project for the curious
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Sheetmetalfab
Liberal kryptonite. truth and logic….
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Aluminum is easy to weld compared to zinc.
I did a bunch of zinc bar tops for a retro restaurant and nearly committed suicide.
highpocket74
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I have the tubing worked out to pass through the passenger side grate. Ordered more tubing kits to build a couple of these too. Still working out the details for the replacement grate.
If you guys are still interested in a snorkel like Slowpoke's that requires cutting the fender, I think I can whip up something for that while the grate is being worked out. It would be one piece also, with added bracing under the plastic. I already have something similar to this made from a previous experiment. I have a bunch of straight tubing left over that I can join with mitered bends to make this piece. Miters should be fine and not affect airflow upstream of the air filter since it hits a turbulent wall at the air filter. Laminar flow is more important after the air filter into the intake.
Also, if there is anyone near me that would let me borrow their 4 seater for a few days to take measurements that would be awesome. The 2 seater and 4 seater rear seatbelt anchor points are different. I need to fit this tube up on a 4 seater to make a pattern for the tube anchor location.
If you guys are still interested in a snorkel like Slowpoke's that requires cutting the fender, I think I can whip up something for that while the grate is being worked out. It would be one piece also, with added bracing under the plastic. I already have something similar to this made from a previous experiment. I have a bunch of straight tubing left over that I can join with mitered bends to make this piece. Miters should be fine and not affect airflow upstream of the air filter since it hits a turbulent wall at the air filter. Laminar flow is more important after the air filter into the intake.
Also, if there is anyone near me that would let me borrow their 4 seater for a few days to take measurements that would be awesome. The 2 seater and 4 seater rear seatbelt anchor points are different. I need to fit this tube up on a 4 seater to make a pattern for the tube anchor location.
highpocket74
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Pic of the 2 piece aluminum grate replacement parts. I’m happy with these and they have been verified to fit a 2 or 4 seater. The reason fir 2 pieces is to allow the one piece tube to be install.
