P1000 Reset the DCT Clutch / Clutch Initialize Learning Procedure Pioneer 1000 / Talon 1000

[jamday]

I hate to say this but it's starting to sound like a dealer is in your future.

Yes, it will probably spend the holiday season outside in the cold, awaiting some professional help.

 

[Mattdean]

Okay I replaced the clutches in mine, and it's not showing on my screen that I need to do the clutch reset, the screen is normal, but the bike acts like it needs the reset, i tried doing the reset last night and nothing was happening

 

[JACKAL]

Okay I replaced the clutches in mine, and it's not showing on my screen that I need to do the clutch reset, the screen is normal, but the bike acts like it needs the reset, i tried doing the reset last night and nothing was happening

You have to follow the process exactly as in my first post.

Oil temp must be correct, too cold won't work. Fan running wont work
You mess around go too slow won't work. You gotta go through the steps like you have it memorized, it will not work with delays.

That's the top 3 things people do wrong, that the DCT doesn't initialize.

 

[Jonnny53]

I have about 1500 miles on my machine, I've never noticed any clutch slipage, however I drove my friends brand new 1000 last week. His shifts noticeably harder and has more "snap" of the throttle than mine does.

Is the clutch reset procedure something that I should do periodically? or is my transmission/clutch just wearing in?

 

[JACKAL]

I have about 1500 miles on my machine, I've never noticed any clutch slipage, however I drove my friends brand new 1000 last week. His shifts noticeably harder and has more "snap" of the throttle than mine does.

Is the clutch reset procedure something that I should do periodically? or is my transmission/clutch just wearing in?

Not necessarily, a new machine is not broken-in yet and it learns to shift somewhat based on how it's driven. Don't fall into a pattern of fixing things until it's broken .

 

[snuffnwhisky]

I did a reset on mine last weekend and it was better after doing it. I did have it apart for the IGR and did the takeover before the reset. I noticed even before taking it apart it kind of wanted to still pull when rolling down a hill trying to stop. When cold in gear it wanted to pull a little sometimes. Only rode for about 30 min this weekend after doing it but no pulling, seems to be smoother taking off and the shifting felt crisper and timed better. Only have a couple hundred pretty hard miles.

 

[Charles1111]

Honda Pioneer 1000 Clutch Initialize Learning Procedure

Before starting this procedure, check the following:
· PGM-FI system & DTC system have no codes
· Engine speed idle is normal
· Sub-transmission in in “P” (parking) and cooling fan stops.

1. Warm up the engine to the normal operating temperature 122-230 degrees F
   NOTE:
   - If the PCM is replaced with a new one, when the ignition switch is turned on the “MT” indicator [1] and the “AT” indicator [2] will be displayed to indicate that the clutch initialization learning procedure is necessary.
   - If the large “U” (extremely low oil temperature indicator) or the small “U” (low oil temperature indicator) is displayed on the gear position indicator [3] the engine must be warmed before proceeding.
   View attachment 11284
   
   
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (l). The MIL [1] will come on. Wait until the MIL goes off and the gear position indicator [2] displays “P”.
   NOTE: Do not turn ignition switch to START (ll), If the motor is running the learning process will be cancelled.
   
   
3. Depress the accelerator pedal fully.
4. Release the accelerator pedal.
5. Depress the accelerator pedal fully.
6. Release the accelerator pedal.
7. Depress the acceleration pedal fully AND HOLD IT!
   
   
8. Move the shift select lever to “L” (low range) position. Check that the gear position indicator [1] displays “L”.
   
9. Move the shift select lever to “P” (parking) position. Check that the gear position indicator [1] displays “P”.
10. Move the shift select lever to “L” (low range) position. Check that the gear position indicator displays “L”.
11. Move the shift select lever to “P” (parking) position. Check that the gear position indicator displays “P”.
12. Release the accelerator pedal. Check that “-“ is displayed on the gear position indicator [1] and blinks at an interval of 2 seconds, and both the “MT” [2] and the “AT” [3] indicator are displayed in the bottom center of the digital gauge.
    
    View attachment 11287 View attachment 11285
    
    NOTE:
    - The PCM is ready to clutch initialize learning when the “-“ is displayed and starts blinking at an interval of 2 seconds.
    - The PCM did not accept to start clutch initialize learning if the gear position indicator continues to display “P”. Perform the initialize learning procedure from step 1 again.
    
    
13. Start the engine and let idle for approximately 60 seconds. The clutch initialize learning is successful when the “-“ on the gear position indicator [1], “MT” indicator [2], and “AT” indicator [3] disappear.
    View attachment 11286
14. Stop the engine.
15. Turn the ignition switch on. Check that the gear position indicator displays “P” and either the “MT” or the “AT” indicator comes on.

NOTE:
· If the “-“ starts blinking at an interval of ½ second, the clutch learning is unsuccessful. Perform the process again starting at Step 1.

· If the large “U” (extremely low oil temperature) or the small “u” (low oil temperature) is displayed on the gear position indicator, warm up the engine until the “L” on the gear position indicator goes off. Stop the engine and perform the procedure from Step 2 again.

· If both the “MT” & “AT” indicator are displayed, the clutch initialize learning is not complete.

Can’t get mine to relearn

 

[William]

I just did the relearn just for the heck of it... It really smoothed up the shifts! I may do it every few months or so now... Thanks for this!

 

[P1K5Dave]

I have determined that my 1/3/5 clutch pack is going bad and I have a new one on order.

In the meantime, my display shows MT and AT at all times, and I have run the initialization procedure about a dozen times with no success. It always ends up flashing every half second after I go thru it, and MT/AT are always lit.

Can an initialization procedure ever be successful if you need to replace a clutch pack? Are my issues all related, or is there something else going on?

 

[JSHEB]

Thanks for this post!

I did the relearn on my 2020 1K5 at 330 miles and it really did smooth up the shifting. Very happy with the results...

I wanted to share because I had problems initially like many had said getting the process started, realized I was doing the L,P,L,P shift to fast and the gear indicator was not registering the "L" it would stay at "-" for one the shift sequences before I really started paying attention. Once I figured this out worked great!

 

[CID]

There's a little more information with video here -

P1000 - hard shifting on my 2020- not what you think

Gents, I have a 2020 1000-5dlx with 900 miles on it. From new the shift mechanism worked hard. Not the transmission jerking between shifts rather the shift lever going though the gates was very hard to get it to mechanically slide from one portion to another. I mentioned it when it was new...

hondasxs.com

 

[JSHEB]

There's a little more information with video here -

P1000 - hard shifting on my 2020- not what you think

Gents, I have a 2020 1000-5dlx with 900 miles on it. From new the shift mechanism worked hard. Not the transmission jerking between shifts rather the shift lever going though the gates was very hard to get it to mechanically slide from one portion to another. I mentioned it when it was new...

hondasxs.com

Thank you!

 

[P1K5Dave]

I have determined that my 1/3/5 clutch pack is going bad and I have a new one on order.

In the meantime, my display shows MT and AT at all times, and I have run the initialization procedure about a dozen times with no success. It always ends up flashing every half second after I go thru it, and MT/AT are always lit.

Can an initialization procedure ever be successful if you need to replace a clutch pack? Are my issues all related, or is there something else going on?

Quoting myself to answer my own question for the benefit of others reading this thread:

I did replace the 1/3/5 clutch pack shortly after asking this. The answer is, no, I was never able to get the initialization procedure to work while that clutch pack was in there.

After installing the new clutch pack, I was able to initialize the first time I tried. The display stopped showing AT and MT, and worked correctly going forward.

I guess that's the machine's way of telling you nothing's going to be good until you replace that clutch pack.

 

[Snakerbaker]

So after trying over 15 times fast slow driving around then trying again but the AT/MT lights stay on. This all stemmed over a one mile run then dead battery jumped with a jumper box then limping back home 50 amp fuse was blown replaced battery and fuse still shifting bad and can’t get those lights to remove. Is there any other problems that would cause those lights to stay on even after the relearn process tried without success. Any help would be welcomed. Thanks

 

[Snakerbaker]

How did you know that the clutch pack was bad?

 

[P1K5Dave]

@Snakerbaker at least initially, it doesn't sound like your problem is related to a bad clutch pack. To get the best help, start your own thread with details of your problem, include year/model. Give us more info about when or how your battery died and about the blown fuse.

 

[Snakerbaker]

Ok thanks, I’m new to this thread stuff. Just a quick note. I drove about a mile to our boat ramp after turning off my radio it turns back on itself and has been and killed my battery while parked for a week now back to the ramp it was dead jumped it with a jump box it made it back home shifting crazy -now I know low voltage— the next day I found the 50 amp fuse blown { one from o’rallys fits Advanced one is too long check before buying} now it goes through the relearn but the AT/MT lights never go out and it won’t hardly shift. Any help would be great. Thanks

 

[P1K5Dave]

Ok, I now see that you did, in fact, already have your own thread about this. I'll put my response over there...

16 1000-5 dead battery problems

I had a dead battery about a mile from home. Jumped it with jump box. It went into a shake mode on way home I replaced the battery and the 50 amp fuse was blown replaced it with one from Orallys ( note the ones they sell at advanced auto are too long. Check before buying a spare) now it want...

hondasxs.com

 

[Snakerbaker]

I also can not get the AT/MT to go away. I’ve done the relearn at least 20 times every way I could think of. The relearn process works every time. The slow - always goes to P afterwards but the MT/AT lights stay one. I (2016 1000-5) had a dead battery jumped it with jumper box drove it about a mile with the transmission acting crazy. The next day I saw it had blown the 50 amp fuse’ I replaced that and installed a new battery from dealer 160$ and all this started it ran great before the dead battery. My question is there a problem with the machine that I did driving it back home that won’t let it relearn. The transmission is still running bad it takes a lot of gas to get it moving and doesn’t shift right. Any ideas would help. Thanks

 

[P1K5Dave]

@Snakerbaker - If you have a burned clutch pack, the first one to go is usually the one that runs the 1-3-5 forward gears.

So if your machine takes a lot of gas to get going, that could be first gear slippage. If it shifts relatively normal into 2nd, then the motor revs high again going into third, (4th gear normal, 5th gear revs again) then you may be looking at the first clutch pack needing replacement. Is this the case?