P1000m5 Rock Donkey v2 Long Travel

[nbomar]

I wasn’t going to do anything before Takeover but...

I decided to swap out my winch ropes since they were getting frayed again, ESPECIALLY the rear one, which after I was reminded how much trouble it is to swap the front I will be using the rear a LOT more.

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I also wanted to put the factory exhaust back on because it’s so loud for my daughter when the full cab is on. I like the HMF sound but I like the quiet more, it doesn’t add any power and I’d only installed the HMF for the rear winch. In my search I ended up ordering a rear winch bumper/mount from @knuckledeep and decided that since I was going to rewire my backup lights to use some Rough Country Flush mount pods...Yes I have 95% of the tools and I could’ve made one but it wouldn’t have looked as nice and I am all for supporting a member who does good work.

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(Not mine but work in progress of another one from him)


I decided I might as well move the existing rock lights I was using for backup lights to the bed area to light my HomeDepot Ridgid box stacks better at night.

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It’s light outside now but it’s MUCH better coverage especially for the stacks since they open to each side and the lights hit the bed from each side.

Then I decided that the rock light I’m using for a front dome would be better in a different place, that required me to move my HAM radio, which required me to move my wetsounds, which required me to move my tablet and my phone, which made me rewire everything above the dash, so decided if I was going to rewire and remount I might as well make it to where I can remove the roof and swap out for an alien shade...

While I was at it I removed the Chinese USB power converters because they were electrical trash and put all kinds of noise into the wetsounds, added 2-way SAE connectors and bought (3) Battery Tender SAE to USB plugs. I will power the VIRBs and my phone/tablet with them.

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A spare weldable clamp (still have to sandblast and powdercoat), scrap flatbar, some argon, Half a roll of solder, a roll of heat shrink, 2 rolls of tape, a pack of zip ties and MANY hours later I remembered why I had put it off so far....and why I’m going with Switch Pro setup on my next SxS.

A lot of work with little to really show for it except calmer OCD, and better lighting in the back area and cab.

View attachment 121641
All wired and except for powdercoat on the radio mount, the extra flatbar to the back is for something I may do later.


I’m going to ride this weekend then clean it up, and swap the exhaust, adjust the valves, change the oil/filters, adjust the steering rack and replace the plastic bushings in it, since there’s starting to be some slack. I had contemplated just buying a new rack assembly since they are “only” $224 but @joeymt33 did a spectacular write up in this thread here. So I’m going to try adjusting first and if that and $10 in bushings doesn’t work I’ll replace it AFTER take over.

Wish I had the patience to do these types of things. I’d burn my sxs to the ground 30 minutes in...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Admin]

 

[ohanacreek]

Wish I had the patience to do these types of things. I’d burn my sxs to the ground 30 minutes in...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well ...it wasn’t planned, I went down the rabbit hole and then I had to get it back together so I could take my daughter riding this afternoon.

 

[ohanacreek]

Picked up a shifter cover from @Montana and since it was aluminum I ended up putting powdercoat on it and doing a crappy job at it, it’s wrinkle but I didn’t coat it well enough. Stops the heat.
I might get some white vinyl to put behind the letters to get the contrast back.

 

[GlockMeister]

Picked up a shifter cover from @Montana and since it was aluminum I ended up putting powdercoat on it and doing a crappy job at it, it’s wrinkle but I didn’t coat it well enough. Stops the heat.
I might get some white vinyl to put behind the letters to get the contrast back.

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I saw where someone had put glow in the dark tape behind it and looked pretty good.

 

[CPope]

I used glow tape behind mine and it shows up good at night, I will try to get a pic

 

[ohanacreek]

I saw where someone had put glow in the dark tape behind it and looked pretty good.

Kilo put LED behind it but I like the heat in the winter so I didn’t want to cut up the dash.

 

[Plumber32]

I wasn’t going to do anything before Takeover but...

I decided to swap out my winch ropes since they were getting frayed again, ESPECIALLY the rear one, which after I was reminded how much trouble it is to swap the front I will be using the rear a LOT more.

View attachment 121630
View attachment 121634
View attachment 121631


I also wanted to put the factory exhaust back on because it’s so loud for my daughter when the full cab is on. I like the HMF sound but I like the quiet more, it doesn’t add any power and I’d only installed the HMF for the rear winch. In my search I ended up ordering a rear winch bumper/mount from @knuckledeep and decided that since I was going to rewire my backup lights to use some Rough Country Flush mount pods...Yes I have 95% of the tools and I could’ve made one but it wouldn’t have looked as nice and I am all for supporting a member who does good work.

View attachment 121632
(Not mine but work in progress of another one from him)


I decided I might as well move the existing rock lights I was using for backup lights to the bed area to light my HomeDepot Ridgid box stacks better at night.

View attachment 121639
View attachment 121640
View attachment 121638
It’s light outside now but it’s MUCH better coverage especially for the stacks since they open to each side and the lights hit the bed from each side.

Then I decided that the rock light I’m using for a front dome would be better in a different place, that required me to move my HAM radio, which required me to move my wetsounds, which required me to move my tablet and my phone, which made me rewire everything above the dash, so decided if I was going to rewire and remount I might as well make it to where I can remove the roof and swap out for an alien shade...

While I was at it I removed the Chinese USB power converters because they were electrical trash and put all kinds of noise into the wetsounds, added 2-way SAE connectors and bought (3) Battery Tender SAE to USB plugs. I will power the VIRBs and my phone/tablet with them.

View attachment 121633

A spare weldable clamp (still have to sandblast and powdercoat), scrap flatbar, some argon, Half a roll of solder, a roll of heat shrink, 2 rolls of tape, a pack of zip ties and MANY hours later I remembered why I had put it off so far....and why I’m going with Switch Pro setup on my next SxS.

A lot of work with little to really show for it except calmer OCD, and better lighting in the back area and cab.

View attachment 121641
All wired and except for powdercoat on the radio mount, the extra flatbar to the back is for something I may do later.


I’m going to ride this weekend then clean it up, and swap the exhaust, adjust the valves, change the oil/filters, adjust the steering rack and replace the plastic bushings in it, since there’s starting to be some slack. I had contemplated just buying a new rack assembly since they are “only” $224 but @joeymt33 did a spectacular write up in this thread here. So I’m going to try adjusting first and if that and $10 in bushings doesn’t work I’ll replace it AFTER take over.

Your going to really like the rear winch mount!

 

[ohanacreek]

Your going to really like the rear winch mount!

I think so too, I’m REALLY liking the quiet exhaust and even if I don’t I’m pretty much committed now anyway since I already sold @GlockMeister my HMF and my rear winch mount.

It’s heavier and higher ... but exhaust is significantly quieter than the HMF, the HMF was a trade off for sound vs factory so I could fit the rear winch. There’s no good place to fit everything so there’s gonna be a trade off somewhere.

Just have to choose which one you’re willing to have.

I like @knuckledeep s mount and I added some RoughCountry lights as well since I think it would have covered my backup lights I had.

 

[Plumber32]

I think so too, I’m REALLY liking the quiet exhaust and even if I don’t I’m pretty much committed now anyway since I already sold @GlockMeister my HMF and my rear winch mount.

It’s heavier and higher ... but exhaust is significantly quieter than the HMF, the HMF was a trade off for sound vs factory so I could fit the rear winch. There’s no good place to fit everything so there’s gonna be a trade off somewhere.

Just have to choose which one you’re willing to have.

I like @knuckledeep s mount and I added some RoughCountry lights as well since I think it would have covered my backup lights I had.

And when you need to winch yourself out you don't have to dig down in the mud for your line.

 

[ohanacreek]

And when you need to winch yourself out you don't have to dig down in the mud for your line.

Good point....

Rock Donkey spends very little time in the swamp though.

 

[Plumber32]

Good point....

Rock Donkey spends very little time in the swamp though.

Yeah I see you go around anything that's not paved!

 

[Superthrill]

Where can I find more pics or info on the rear winch mount bumper? Does he have any pics or info on buying them?

 

[Plumber32]

Where can I find more pics or info on the rear winch mount bumper? Does he have any pics or info on buying them?

@knuckledeep

 

[ohanacreek]

Yeah I see you go around anything that's not paved!

You don’t see anything you’re always stuck in a mud hole!

 

[ohanacreek]

Where can I find more pics or info on the rear winch mount bumper? Does he have any pics or info on buying them?

I’ll take some pics when I get it installed. He’s finishing it up right now. Should be here next week.

 

[ohanacreek]

Added a way to carry a spare axle and keep
It from bouncing around in the bed getting covered in mud and dirt. It’s 2 bolts into factory locations and zip ties. It will fit with my Ridgid boxes mounted.

Hold a front axle perfectly, 4” cap, 24” precut section of 4” pipe, and a cleanout on the other end. Bent a couple of pieces of flatbar and used a strap loop to keep it from moving forward and back. The axle JUST fits inside so it won’t shift either and I wrapped the axle boots on paper towels, to keep them from rubbing.

 

[GlockMeister]

Added a way to carry a spare axle and keep
It from bouncing around in the bed getting covered in mud and dirt. It’s 2 bolts into factory locations and zip ties. It will fit with my Ridgid boxes mounted.

Hold a front axle perfectly, 4” cap, 24” precut section of 4” pipe, and a cleanout on the other end. Bent a couple of pieces of flatbar and used a strap loop to keep it from moving forward and back. The axle JUST fits inside so it won’t shift either and I wrapped the axle boots on paper towels, to keep them from rubbing.

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I like it..just picked up 3 axles so i need to make up a few of these.

 

[joeymt33]

Added a way to carry a spare axle and keep
It from bouncing around in the bed getting covered in mud and dirt. It’s 2 bolts into factory locations and zip ties. It will fit with my Ridgid boxes mounted.

Hold a front axle perfectly, 4” cap, 24” precut section of 4” pipe, and a cleanout on the other end. Bent a couple of pieces of flatbar and used a strap loop to keep it from moving forward and back. The axle JUST fits inside so it won’t shift either and I wrapped the axle boots on paper towels, to keep them from rubbing.

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If you will make another one or two I got some axles you can carry for me!

 

[Tramguage1]

Heres a sneak peek of mine
Will be installing it at Takeover

Added some aux tail/ stop lights. My factory ar covered by my rear spare carrier.

 

[ohanacreek]

If you will make another one or two I got some axles you can carry for me!

You shaved weight by taking the seats out. Add a few lbs back....Not a pack mule.

Edit: I decided NOT to take seats out because I’d have to add heavy wood or metal back to bolt the boxes down to. Then I’d have to reinstall everything. Seemed like more work than it was worth.