P500 Rugged Radio Install

[lazypengu1n]

Rugged Radio RRP364 Intercom and ICOM F5021 Radio

I picked up the eBay bundle from Ruggged Radio for $450 + $33 shipping and a used ICOM F5021 Business radio. I am also a licensed General HAM operator. The radio allows passenger and driver to talk and also listen to any bluetooth device. It also has the ability to connect to a radio and I wanted something that could be programmed on the MURS channels 1 through 5. This way when I am hunting with my friends, I can drop them of at different locations and we can always be in contact without having to hump all over the fields to find each other. Makes it easier to coordinate things.

On to the install. This bracket is a universal one from Rugged Radio made specifically for the ICOM F5021 and an intercom. I was hoping that the bracket was the same size as the area to the left of the right cup holder but no dice. I finally decided the cleanest install was to flip the bracket upside down and dremel (using the plastic cutting disc makes way better cuts) to cut a slot on the upper left hand side of the dash so then I could stick the corner of the bracket in it and make everything line up. I decided on the lower ridge was perfect. I flipped the bracket so the legs that hold the radios were facing towards me and I used a marker to make the cuts and installed the bracket. I opted for the support bracket as well and had to cut off the right side of the it to clear the cup holder.

That left me with the original lower left hole and I used that to run the wire for the radio mic connection. Here it is installed and powered on.

Here is a view of the back side of the radios, the ICOM does not touch the plastic below it.

Question here - I have the accessory harness but was trying to decide if it was worth to connect the radio here or directly to the battery. Has anyone else run a bus bar to the front? Is it a PITA?

Here is a few from behind into the seating area. I ran the wires for the headsets
Passenger - Right side of the dash has an opening that I was able to put the wire through.
Driver - Left of center between the dash and plastic

The H21 headsets happen to be sit on the head rests perfectly. That saves me some money and where to place them.

I will post up some more updates as I complete the power wiring and antenna setup. It was running of a 12V source for testing.

 

[Admin]

 

[crewcabrob]

Looks great! I'm looking at radios, but will hold off until at least next year at this point.

I already took the area you installed your radios at with the locking glovebox. I'm thinking about overhead and behind the driver/passenger for my install.

Rob

 

[pappyo]

Welcome from central upstate N.Y
RED was the1st color all other colors followed Honda hops they sell hopes.
Nice Camo & Radio setup.

Radio is on the list & near the top.

For your question:
Several Posts on here about bus-bar & routing battery cables.
Chcek my 3/8/2022 post <> Easy Hot 12V Lead Out of Battery Box.

Simple task "JUST TAKES TIME" Skid Removal Makes it EASY <> ( Be sure to apply "antiseezs compound" to skid bolts when you put them back ( be glad you did later when you remove the skid again )
Worth doing Now <> makes any 12V acc added later EASY.
HOT LEAD "ONLY" <>Out the back of battery box through <> EXISTING HOLE <> down along frame in Existing Loom & up the FIRE WALL to Bus-Bar
Pick-up Negative wire for Bus-Bar from <>Frame or ( Engine Perfered )

 

[Mudder]

I have my ham radio powered for key-on power with a sub harness lead. That circuit + accessory plug is on a 15 amp fuse. Also have a circuit breaker protected 6 ga. wire from the battery to terminal posts under the hood for high amp stuff like the winch and power steering motor, plus a connection point for a dash mounted battery tender plug.

Not much room in the battery box so that single 6 ga. wire avoids the need to fool with the battery box cover unless replacing the battery.

 

[lazypengu1n]

Thanks for the input! Given it’s a radio, I ran a pig tail and used Anderson poles as a QD. I was able to fish the wire using some Ethernet fishing poles to the front passenger side and straight up.

When I get a a winch in the future, I will pull that wire out and add a buss bar to the front.

Pics of the complete install coming. I need to figure out to level the antenna as I used the front right fender as the mounting point and it’s canted to the left.

 

[Mudder]

Looks great! I'm looking at radios, but will hold off until at least next year at this point.

I already took the area you installed your radios at with the locking glovebox. I'm thinking about overhead and behind the driver/passenger for my install.

Rob

Also having the glovebox, the Honda ROPS clamp was an easy mount with access to the Tyt 8600 radio (claimed water proof) controls.

 

[Mudder]

Thanks for the input! Given it’s a radio, I ran a pig tail and used Anderson poles as a QD. I was able to fish the wire using some Ethernet fishing poles to the front passenger side and straight up.

When I get a a winch in the future, I will pull that wire out and add a buss bar to the front.

Pics of the complete install coming. I need to figure out to level the antenna as I used the front right fender as the mounting point and it’s canted to the left.

My antenna location is the same, it may not be the optimum RF output but works fine for trail coms and listening to local emergency services in scanner mode. The silver car antennas on the bumper are spider web catchers.

 

[lazypengu1n]

My antenna location is the same, it may not be the optimum RF output but works fine for trail coms and listening to local emergency services in scanner mode. The silver car antennas on the bumper are spider web catchers.
View attachment 351307

That’s exactly how I did my antenna. I got lazy but only need for short distance. I’m running MURS. Maybe I’ll keep it like that. Man do I really need a 3d printer.