P500 rust repair/prevention, need to remove pioneer 500 fuel tank

[tlynn]

I have been chasing rust on my 2015 p500. Its not bad but seems certain places don't have a good primer so the paint just bubbles off. I clean and spot spray with rust reformer then black enamel. My problem now is the metal plate under the fuel tank is 75% rust and I cant remove it to repaint, its welded to the frame in two places. Does anyone now how to remove the fuel tank? I have tried to remove the tank out the top but it won't move to the center enough get thru the seat frame. I cant even get it back over and down to its original location. I thought it may help to remove the plastic side panel, so I started removing the door hinge bolts (panel is behind hing plate), with a lot of force I got the top one out using 5mm alen, the other three striped out the head of the bolt, would not budge even with manual impact driver.

 

[Admin]

 

[Hondasxs]

Hello,
My best advice is fix the visible rust and don't worry about the rest. It's pointless as the entire inside of the frame is rusted even worse then what you are describing.

Also, be advised that after a water ride or deep washing you will have rust drips. It's common. Soon these drip spots will clog up and stop dripping. I'm sorry to say this but you can't stop it.

Every Honda has been this way. I remember a rancher I owned. We wrecked it and wanted to save the engine. Doing so we just cut it out. The frame was full of sand and muck. Rust was bad but nowhere did it rust through.

My best advice is is hard to swallow but it's what you will end go doing anyways. And advice is to get some mud on the tires and forget about it.

Wish you luck.

Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk

 

[Hondasxs]

Realize I didn't answer your question. I had to find something to show you.

Removal of the tank on a 500 is not a simple job. Again. take my advice above.
But, if you want to repaint that area you will have to take the whole right side apart.
Here are 2 pictures of another guy who removed his tank so he could exert a broken screw from the oil cap.
*** warning about the oil cap, do not over torque it. It will break.***



Well, hope that helps you make a decision.
Thanks.

 

[pFive]

I have done it, to put that cage side back on you will need ratchet straps and pull on it like it's on a body shop frame straightener. I would never do it again.

 

[oldfortyfive]

When my machine was new I pushed rags full of grease through all the frame tubes I could get to to slow rust down. Time will tell if it was worth the effort.

 

[Mudder]

Maybe attach a support plate from the bottom if it would be easier, only you know if it is worth the trouble, but tend to agree with @Hondasxs.

 

[trigger]

I have been chasing rust on my 2015 p500. Its not bad but seems certain places don't have a good primer so the paint just bubbles off. I clean and spot spray with rust reformer then black enamel. My problem now is the metal plate under the fuel tank is 75% rust and I cant remove it to repaint, its welded to the frame in two places. Does anyone now how to remove the fuel tank? I have tried to remove the tank out the top but it won't move to the center enough get thru the seat frame. I cant even get it back over and down to its original location. I thought it may help to remove the plastic side panel, so I started removing the door hinge bolts (panel is behind hing plate), with a lot of force I got the top one out using 5mm alen, the other three striped out the head of the bolt, would not budge even with manual impact driver.

Yeah those hinge bolts are a b***h! It's almost like they're a special head size, 5mm fits loose and they're tight as hell. I've had to take them out twice and don't plan to ever do it again.

 

[tlynn]

I did consider Hondasxa advice and just paint what I can see and let it go, but I'm retired and have the time to dig in further, just not sure its worth it. But I keep my stuff a long time and I hate rust. Old45 that sounds like a good idea, greasy rags, has anyone used the expandable foam sealer in a can to fill the tubes?

 

[Hondasxs]

has anyone used the expandable foam sealer in a can to fill the tubes?

YES.. Dont do it.
My problem was, there was not enough free air and it did not process like it should down the tubes. If you hate rust. Try to remove that stuff.
Also, I believe it might hold water even more.

 

[pFive]

If you are really worried just take it in and get the wax based material sprayed inside the frame tubes...Or make a bug sprayer with a longer tube and spray the insides with WD-40 a few times a season.

 

[tlynn]

I got the side rail off, refinished the plate and have it back on with all the bolts in, not tight yet. I had most of the bolts out of the seat rail too, got them back with one left over, will be working on that tomorrow. Hope I find where to put the 31 rivets I have out. I fixed the notorious loose battery cover too. will send some pics later.
If I had bought this p500 new, before any rust developed, I would have rigged a long spray hose to apply foam to the far end of the tubes first and fill as the hose is pulled out, or at least use a good rust prof paint.

 

[moparornocar]

I got the side rail off, refinished the plate and have it back on with all the bolts in, not tight yet. I had most of the bolts out of the seat rail too, got them back with one left over, will be working on that tomorrow. Hope I find where to put the 31 rivets I have out. I fixed the notorious loose battery cover too. will send some pics later.
If I had bought this p500 new, before any rust developed, I would have rigged a long spray hose to apply foam to the far end of the tubes first and fill as the hose is pulled out, or at least use a good rust prof paint.

Foam holds water and will make it rust out faster. Best thing would be to fill a pump sprayer with old motor oil and spray it down all the tubes once a year. Maybe twice if you go underwater alot. It'll never rust then.

 

[Mudder]

Google search for rustproofing tube frames found this product from an aircraft site. MIL spec certified for aircraft frame tubing. Many other forum sites (boats, car restoration, racing bikes) noted not to use foam due to moisture trap.
POLY-FIBER TUBE SEAL LINE OIL from Aircraft Spruce (creeps up around pipe) Just ordered a pint, $14. No promo codes currently available. Plan to use air compressor (liquid) parts cleaning wand to spray mist in SxS and ATV. We'll see how it works....

Other stuff listed:
Corrosion Treatment from Aircraft Spruce

 

[chrisC]

I wouldn't use foam. It tends to keep the moisture rather than do away with it.
I've used use "Rust Check". It travels or creeps ,and will actually go uphill. I give a spray down in the tubes regularly. Another good product is "Fluid Film" however it doesn't "creep" as much as the rust check. The product that Mudder showed looked great as well.
We have a lot of corrosion around here. I wish it was only the inside of the tubes i was concerned about

There was a recent thread about this
Paint coming off

 

[Buford]

It's too bad the idiots that make the manufacturing decisions don't have a clue how important it is to do proper metal prep to the frame and chassis components.
If my frame or ROPS ever shows signs of the paint flaking loose, I'll tear it totally apart, sandblast it, and use products that I can guarantee will be far superior to their "environmentally friendly" crap.

 

[tlynn]

loose paint, I got cow poop
that sticks better than this.
top of plate with only loose paint removed
after removing side rail assembly this
is the bottom of plate.

loose paint removed cleaned and painted 2 coats of enamel
with Rust Reformer, get it at Home Depot or Walmart.

 

[tlynn]

Well, after looking at removing the side/door frame like Hondasxs mentioned and the trouble getting it off, I called the local Honda dealer, the mechanic said I'd have to remove the seat frame to get the tank out. I also considered Hsxs advice,,,, often, but the seat frame looked easier because all I had to do was loosen it enough to raise one side up about two inches, that gave me enough room to position the tank right under the opening in the frame. Then a half inch of the seat support was in the way, Mr Makita fixed that and the tank was out.

But in order to clean up and paint the bottom plate like I want to, its gotta come out. Thought of cutting it out leaving about 1 inch left on the tubing to drill and bolt the plate back in, a lot of work, its welded to the tubing in three places. I'm in too far now for Hondasxs advice

There must be a name for this kind of reasoning, that just a little more.........a thousand times is just....still a little more. So I removed the side rail with the plated attached to it. I should be ashamed of my self for letting a little rust do that, but I'm glad I did as the paint was pealing bad. The metal probably had machine oil on it when it was painted, same as any other polaris, articat, or canam, my ford, the Dodge I had, my camper, my lawn mower, my tractor, anything made here or overseas. I keep my stuff a long time and I don't like rust.
Thanks everyone for you replies and comments, lots of good ideas.

 

[tlynn]

My battery box cover does not stay shut on the front side, so I drilled a hole in the plastic and put in a screw with a washer welded on the head so I don't need a tool to remove, painted yellow so I don't forget its there

 

[moparornocar]

Looks a helluva lot better. The rocker tubes on my p1k are doing the same thing in places. Eventually I figure they will need blasted and painted.

 

[rocmar]

Foam holds water and will make it rust out faster. Best thing would be to fill a pump sprayer with old motor oil and spray it down all the tubes once a year. Maybe twice if you go underwater alot. It'll never rust then.

Pledge...furniture polish....
few times in winter...helps
& smells good....
haha