Sub trans leak

PhilCod

PhilCod

Well-Known Member
Dec 10, 2019
366
762
93
Indiana
Ownership

  1. Talon X
The back side (rear) of the sub trans has a slow leak. Seems to have gotten worse. She had 6,100+ miles on her now, so its probably a bad seal. Any useful input about the repair?
 
Neohio

Neohio

Beast of the East
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Club Contributor
Dec 22, 2016
21,741
93,134
113
Painesville Ohio
Ownership

  1. 1000-5
If you are dropping the sub trans to fix the leak, grab all the newer parts and install at the same time.
I think the low engagement dogs were updated in 21 or 23.
Not a horrible job to pull it on your back. Just be patient.
 
CID

CID

Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Oct 27, 2019
5,744
26,382
113
SE Denver-ish
Ownership

  1. Talon R
I think there are a couple of sub trans removal tips in the New Talon Owners thread -

 
  • Like
Reactions: Smitty335
mmuchow

mmuchow

Member
Feb 20, 2021
8
36
13
Pittsburgh
Ownership

  1. Talon X
If you’re talking about the seal in the picture then I just replaced this one the other week (sub trans left in the machine). Mine lasted ~4k miles, the hardest part of the job was getting the rear axles out of the diff (1st time I’ve had them out) to slide the diff and prop shaft back from the sub trans other than that it was a pretty painless job. I would also recommend using a shaft type seal puller to remove the old one. I also realized that the seal has been updated to a thicker style, from 8.0mm to 9.5mm, not sure on the part number off hand. Plan to change the opposite seal (front) as well to the new part number soon



IMG 4075
 
PhilCod

PhilCod

Well-Known Member
Dec 10, 2019
366
762
93
Indiana
Ownership

  1. Talon X
If you’re talking about the seal in the picture then I just replaced this one the other week (sub trans left in the machine). Mine lasted ~4k miles, the hardest part of the job was getting the rear axles out of the diff (1st time I’ve had them out) to slide the diff and prop shaft back from the sub trans other than that it was a pretty painless job. I would also recommend using a shaft type seal puller to remove the old one. I also realized that the seal has been updated to a thicker style, from 8.0mm to 9.5mm, not sure on the part number off hand. Plan to change the opposite seal (front) as well to the new part number soon



View attachment 463135
Thanks. Yes talking about that one. My sub trans is slamming into gear hear an there, so may rebuild. Yea, getting the rear axles out sucks. Seems like Honda neglected to use grease on the install. I greased the new ones up with bel-ray grease so they should come out better this time.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Smitty335
CID

CID

Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Oct 27, 2019
5,744
26,382
113
SE Denver-ish
Ownership

  1. Talon R
I bought the SATV axle puller for ~$125 and it makes pulling a rear axle child's play. The first time I used it, the axle came out on the second 'hit' and I damn near fell off the stool I was sitting on. Money well spent.
1743900459024


It barely fit over an inner rear CV, I had to use my own, non-shouldered bolts. I put this piece on first, sliding it over the outer CV and then the inner. Inserted the 8 bolts, tightened them and then screwed the hammer shaft into it. You can see in the last photo that there's a frame section in the way, that defines where you can secure to the CV.
1743900571330


The provided, shouldered bolts couldn't get a purchase on the threads and would have stripped if I had tried to tighten them -
1743900666997


Strap the axle up so its entire weight isn't hanging from the diff, it can't be straight out as shown here with the puller attached, see the first photo for an approximate angle.
1743900844829
 
Last edited:
Hello_Darkness

Hello_Darkness

Well-Known Member
Jun 6, 2024
666
2,679
93
Just to the right of nowhere
Ownership

  1. Do not currently own
If you’re talking about the seal in the picture then I just replaced this one the other week (sub trans left in the machine). Mine lasted ~4k miles, the hardest part of the job was getting the rear axles out of the diff (1st time I’ve had them out) to slide the diff and prop shaft back from the sub trans other than that it was a pretty painless job. I would also recommend using a shaft type seal puller to remove the old one. I also realized that the seal has been updated to a thicker style, from 8.0mm to 9.5mm, not sure on the part number off hand. Plan to change the opposite seal (front) as well to the new part number soon



View attachment 463135
Thanks. Yes talking about that one. My sub trans is slamming into gear hear an there, so may rebuild. Yea, getting the rear axles out sucks. Seems like Honda neglected to use grease on the install. I greased the new ones up with bel-ray grease so they should come out better this time.

FYI, the axles can stay in, the diff should move back far enough to get the shaft off.

Or atleast that's how I remember it.
 
CID

CID

Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Oct 27, 2019
5,744
26,382
113
SE Denver-ish
Ownership

  1. Talon R
FYI, the axles can stay in, the diff should move back far enough to get the shaft off.

Or atleast that's how I remember it.
I've read that guys use a ratchet strap to pull the diff back as far as possible.
 
advertisement
CID

CID

Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Oct 27, 2019
5,744
26,382
113
SE Denver-ish
Ownership

  1. Talon R
... Plan to change the opposite seal (front) as well to the new part number soon
Tack weld the u-joint caps on when you have the driveshaft out. Be sure to move the ground cable from the driveshaft to the yoke on opposing caps so you're not running welding current through the u-joint bearings - :eek: