Sub trans leak

[PhilCod]

The back side (rear) of the sub trans has a slow leak. Seems to have gotten worse. She had 6,100+ miles on her now, so its probably a bad seal. Any useful input about the repair?

 

[Admin]

 

[Neohio]

If you are dropping the sub trans to fix the leak, grab all the newer parts and install at the same time.
I think the low engagement dogs were updated in 21 or 23.
Not a horrible job to pull it on your back. Just be patient.

 

[CID]

I think there are a couple of sub trans removal tips in the New Talon Owners thread -

New Talon Owners - First Things to Know and Check

I'm new to the SxS world - damn, there's a lot to learn, hence this thread - maybe we can make it easier for others new to the Talon and put it in one thread. 1. If you're a motorcyclist, you already know that sometimes your bike won't shift into gear at a stop without rocking the bike back and...

hondasxs.com

 

[Hello_Darkness]

Assuming it's the seal, this can be done in frame.

 

[mmuchow]

If you’re talking about the seal in the picture then I just replaced this one the other week (sub trans left in the machine). Mine lasted ~4k miles, the hardest part of the job was getting the rear axles out of the diff (1st time I’ve had them out) to slide the diff and prop shaft back from the sub trans other than that it was a pretty painless job. I would also recommend using a shaft type seal puller to remove the old one. I also realized that the seal has been updated to a thicker style, from 8.0mm to 9.5mm, not sure on the part number off hand. Plan to change the opposite seal (front) as well to the new part number soon

 

[PhilCod]

If you’re talking about the seal in the picture then I just replaced this one the other week (sub trans left in the machine). Mine lasted ~4k miles, the hardest part of the job was getting the rear axles out of the diff (1st time I’ve had them out) to slide the diff and prop shaft back from the sub trans other than that it was a pretty painless job. I would also recommend using a shaft type seal puller to remove the old one. I also realized that the seal has been updated to a thicker style, from 8.0mm to 9.5mm, not sure on the part number off hand. Plan to change the opposite seal (front) as well to the new part number soon



View attachment 463135

Thanks. Yes talking about that one. My sub trans is slamming into gear hear an there, so may rebuild. Yea, getting the rear axles out sucks. Seems like Honda neglected to use grease on the install. I greased the new ones up with bel-ray grease so they should come out better this time.

 

[CID]

I bought the SATV axle puller for ~$125 and it makes pulling a rear axle child's play. The first time I used it, the axle came out on the second 'hit' and I damn near fell off the stool I was sitting on. Money well spent.

It barely fit over an inner rear CV, I had to use my own, non-shouldered bolts. I put this piece on first, sliding it over the outer CV and then the inner. Inserted the 8 bolts, tightened them and then screwed the hammer shaft into it. You can see in the last photo that there's a frame section in the way, that defines where you can secure to the CV.

The provided, shouldered bolts couldn't get a purchase on the threads and would have stripped if I had tried to tighten them -

Strap the axle up so its entire weight isn't hanging from the diff, it can't be straight out as shown here with the puller attached, see the first photo for an approximate angle.

 

[Hello_Darkness]

If you’re talking about the seal in the picture then I just replaced this one the other week (sub trans left in the machine). Mine lasted ~4k miles, the hardest part of the job was getting the rear axles out of the diff (1st time I’ve had them out) to slide the diff and prop shaft back from the sub trans other than that it was a pretty painless job. I would also recommend using a shaft type seal puller to remove the old one. I also realized that the seal has been updated to a thicker style, from 8.0mm to 9.5mm, not sure on the part number off hand. Plan to change the opposite seal (front) as well to the new part number soon



View attachment 463135

Thanks. Yes talking about that one. My sub trans is slamming into gear hear an there, so may rebuild. Yea, getting the rear axles out sucks. Seems like Honda neglected to use grease on the install. I greased the new ones up with bel-ray grease so they should come out better this time.

FYI, the axles can stay in, the diff should move back far enough to get the shaft off.

Or atleast that's how I remember it.

 

[CID]

FYI, the axles can stay in, the diff should move back far enough to get the shaft off.

Or atleast that's how I remember it.

I've read that guys use a ratchet strap to pull the diff back as far as possible.

 

[Hello_Darkness]

I've read that guys use a ratchet strap to pull the diff back as far as possible.

It's been awhile since I've done one, but I'm pretty sure I didn't take the axles out.

 

[CID]

... Plan to change the opposite seal (front) as well to the new part number soon

Tack weld the u-joint caps on when you have the driveshaft out. Be sure to move the ground cable from the driveshaft to the yoke on opposing caps so you're not running welding current through the u-joint bearings -

 

[CID]

It's been awhile since I've done one, but I'm pretty sure I didn't take the axles out.

I've never done one, so I don't have a clue. Thanks for helping everyone with our problems.