What I did is purchased a sheet of pressure treated 3/4” thick plywood and a 4”x4” by 4ft long square wood post pressure treated too. My truck is an 8’ box but I have a 24” combo custom tool box/fuel cell, so I need my tailgate down. Have an old beater tailgate I have just for this. So slide plywood into box and figure a set back and screw (with 3” screws bottom side up) the 4x4 by 4ft post across the front of the plywood to prevent mashing window or front of box (in my case the tool box/fuel cell). To reduce stain on the tailgate, I bolted angle iron along each side of the plywood for about 4’, rear edge of t gate forward, this spreads weight out,
I also made tailgate support straps from 2” wide steel flats stock. This provides additional support for the cable tailgate lines. Just measured from tailgate pin latch (tailgate open) to the closing pin in box. Be precise with your measurement. Next drilled hole in each end of flat stock, (using above measurement) then unbolted latch pins in the box and bolt the flat strap to the box, using these holes. Next with two nuts I bolted the closing pins to the other end of the flat stock. The bottom end of the flatbar now has the box pins which can now be locked into the tailgate latch (on the gate).
I tie my P5 in by hooking ratchet strap over front wheel and on to upper a arm, in effect tie-ing down front wheels. On the rear same, run a ratchet strap from on frame over top of rear side of tire, to tie downs I’ve bolted into the box. By tying down wheels this allows the suspension to move while towning. By tie-ing down most any other fashion will always come loose on rough road and/or tear out the box tie downs or damage machine.
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