I added the wfosxs SuperATV windshield extension today. Nice piece. Super high quality and works great
Looks like I have an opportunity to stiffen up the area under the driver and passenger feet. I have a small dent on both sides, I'll fix this with another section of tube gusset from Ruffstuff.
Inner sliders are looking pretty good. The vhb tape is rock solid on the outer sliders after a year so I'm sticking with it.
Zip ties to add clamp load for bonding
Zip ties to add clamp load for bonding
New subtransmission crossmember is coming together. Ended up with 1/8" wall 1x2 this time. End caps are 3/16" 1x2 angle. The front edge has a 1x1x3/16 gusset.
Old vs new
Old vs new
Rear brake pads were shot and fronts were tapered pretty hard and half gone at 1270 miles. Greased the bearings and threw in EBC pads.
Next up overhead switches and chase light.
Next up overhead switches and chase light.
GlockMeister
The Bearded Wonder
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Chase light and overhead switches are installed.
The switch box is 3D printed from Crossroads 3d with 4 switches. The switches have high and low red, as well as reverse and strobe red.
Reverse just the LED up top
Top and bottom
High red and low red
Strobe has a cool flash pattern. I'd guess high red will be the one we use most.
This is the light
This is the switch panel, enclosure and mount
crossroads3d.com
The switch box is 3D printed from Crossroads 3d with 4 switches. The switches have high and low red, as well as reverse and strobe red.
Reverse just the LED up top
Top and bottom
High red and low red
Strobe has a cool flash pattern. I'd guess high red will be the one we use most.
This is the light
This is the switch panel, enclosure and mount
SXS Switch panel - Crossroads 3D
crossroads3d.com
I ordered the kit with the horn so it's wrapped in the same wire loom but the horn does connect directly to the battery and is not dead with the key,whereas the signals and 4 ways get their power from ignition under the dash
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Adam490
HFA Grand High Wizard
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
I'd like to see chase video of the red strobe in a lot of dust for comparison. I had that same light in my cart before I found the small amber one I used; I like the way that one looks better than mine. I could only see @Hondasxs bright blue whips when we had 8 machines running fast through the dust and he was the lead vehicle while I was the caboose. I think anything mounted high will do the job just fine though.Chase light and overhead switches are installed.
The switch box is 3D printed from Crossroads 3d with 4 switches. The switches have high and low red, as well as reverse and strobe red.
View attachment 210130
Reverse just the LED up top
View attachment 210131
Top and bottom
View attachment 210134
High red and low red
View attachment 210132
View attachment 210133
Strobe has a cool flash pattern. I'd guess high red will be the one we use most.
This is the light
This is the switch panel, enclosure and mount
SXS Switch panel - Crossroads 3D
Looking to reject a bit more heat and making washing mud off this thing a bit easier. Bored all my skid plate holes from 1" to 1-3/8. Also added a few more ahead and behind the rear diff because mud and sand seems to pool in there.
With that task complete the 1200 mile service is done and she's ready to rip with all fresh fluids.
Wiscons trails one of the next 2 weekends. Drummond Island Michigan end of the month and RRB Aug 10-15.
With that task complete the 1200 mile service is done and she's ready to rip with all fresh fluids.
Wiscons trails one of the next 2 weekends. Drummond Island Michigan end of the month and RRB Aug 10-15.
G
I'm from central WI but we do a trip to Drummond every year. Yes Drummond is rough and we typically come back with some damage. I'm really hoping to keep everything together in 2 weeks when we make a 4 day adventure to the island. I think the front and rear arched arms will help negate some of the issues we've had previously, but may make the tie rod damage easier with the offset front arms
P
Do you have any supports for your outer rear skid plates? I am building a skid now, and was trying to decide how to mount the rear portion, or just cut it out? Thanks
I did not add a support back there other than the formed flange in the UHMW. I have not had a time where I felt like that part was unsupported. It does collect a lot of dirt and I've been tempted to cut it off.
ohanacreek
My EcoBoost has I4WD
Moderator
Lifetime Member
If you end up bracing the outer tubes with 2" angle you can add a kicker up to the upper frame and toward the shock and one over to the lower frame for strength those tubes get bent up often.
I should mention that my outer rock slider tubes and inner tubes are gusseted with formed 3/16" tube gussets. Without the gussets the stock rock sliders are pretty easy to damage
The zip ties on the inner gusset were for clamp load while bonding the sliders in place. The outers are VHB bonded and bolted through with my skid plate.
The zip ties on the inner gusset were for clamp load while bonding the sliders in place. The outers are VHB bonded and bolted through with my skid plate.
P
Thanks. I thought they might be mud collectors. I will probably just cut them off. I also have the gussets for my outer sliders, although they are already pretty beat up.
Had a rough night last night. Got stuck in deep gravel and mud. In an effort to rock it back and forth both front wheels shattered. Bent both front rotors and caliper mounts and broke the left front rotor off the hub. The rocks got bound in between the calipers and wheel. Both wheels blew out at the same time and the tires went flat.
Looks like both front tires are still good. Pile of parts on order to get this thing running for next weekend.
I thought 1 spare wheel and tire would be ok...
Looks like both front tires are still good. Pile of parts on order to get this thing running for next weekend.
I thought 1 spare wheel and tire would be ok...
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