P1000m3 Trouble code help please

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0860silverado

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Hey guys, my rig started cuttin' up on me today and I need help pronto please. While cruising at about 55 MPH on flat pavement, I began coasting (intentionally) to my next stop. When I got back in to the throttle, there was no acceleration. Engine wasn't firing but it was being turned by trans still engaged. No trouble indicators on dash at this point. Power steering was still active. Pressed accelerator while still coasting and trans even downshifted, but I was slowing down (eerie feeling and sound led me to believe I was having a stroke). Came to a stop and then dash check engine light was flashing-- One long / Two short flashes. Turned key off for a couple seconds, fired right back up as normal with no codes. Did this twice today. Any ideas? Thanks in advance guys!!
 
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1 long, 2 short = Code 12

Upload 2018 8 29 22 50 6



Here is page 4-20 and continued 4-21.

Upload 2018 8 29 22 51 0

Upload 2018 8 29 22 51 19
 
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0860silverado

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0860silverado

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BTW... What are the program parameters with the EPS system and the trans shifting? Engine was totally dead, but it was being pulled by trans and when I depressed accelerator, it downshifted, then I let off accelerator, it upshifted just as if engine were firing (all the while coasting due to no engine power). Power steering was active until I came to a complete stop, then went inactive. For fun, I tested power steering with key on / engine off. No PS. Maybe Honda incorporated a safety measure where if the machine is rolling, you have power steering? And trans shifting depends on throttle position vs speed?
 
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0860silverado

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I guess if the injector lost connection, it would kill the fuel pump. That would yield the results you experienced.
Hope its that easy of a find/fix.
Good luck.
Yep..and according to your diagram, maybe ignition shut down too. Self protection mode from lean condition?
 
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Neohio

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Been there, done that, Started a thread for the fix.
Link incoming.

P1000 - PGM-FI DTC 12/13 (Fuel Injector)


What happened on mine was a wiring break. The ECM loses sight of the injector and shuts down the ignition.
Order the harness from your dealer, swap them both out. Shouldn't be too hard.
I believe you have a '16, this has been very common.
 
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0860silverado

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Been there, done that, Started a thread for the fix.
Link incoming.

P1000 - PGM-FI DTC 12/13 (Fuel Injector)


What happened on mine was a wiring break. The ECM loses sight of the injector and shuts down the ignition.
Order the harness from your dealer, swap them both out. Shouldn't be too hard.
I believe you have a '16, this has been very common.
Thank you sir! It's gonna be a few days until I have time to get to it but I'll report back. It is under extended warranty, but I don't know if I want the dealership monkeys to put their paws on it. I envision a three week span with no response and then getting a call saying they have the engine all torn apart and they're thinking the crankshaft needs replacement. (or something to that effect)
 
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I believe another member posted a Honda P/N for the repair kits. Call your dealer and order it. Or use the harness I listed. Depending on which is cheaper.
 
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0860silverado

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I believe another member posted a Honda P/N for the repair kits. Call your dealer and order it. Or use the harness I listed. Depending on which is cheaper.
Sounds good. Thanks again!
 
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Ok, just googled the repair harness @cwalton found "04320-SAA-A00"
This is just new pins attached to a length of wire, right around $10 for 10 pieces.
I didn't take the connector apart to re-pin it, so I will be zero help if you choose that route. I have spares and will try to snap a few pics of how to take it apart later this week.
If you just want to cut off the connector and solder/crimp/heat shrink an entirely new piece on, order the CBR harness (32104-MJE-D00)

This is common enough, I would be comfortable making this statement to you.....(@0860silverado only)
If you drop $20 on the harness, and it DOES NOT fix your problem, I will paypal you the $20.

Easiest way to diagnose this is to do the following, lift box, remove seat back (5/6 bolts I think) Have the engine running, start wiggling the injector harnesses. It will die.
I have had 4 or 5 members PM me about this issue, it has always been a wiring overcrimp issue.

You might get lucky and be able to run for a bit, but when it starts to die, it likes to continue dying.
 
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0860silverado

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Ok, just googled the repair harness @cwalton found "04320-SAA-A00"
This is just new pins attached to a length of wire, right around $10 for 10 pieces.
I didn't take the connector apart to re-pin it, so I will be zero help if you choose that route. I have spares and will try to snap a few pics of how to take it apart later this week.
If you just want to cut off the connector and solder/crimp/heat shrink an entirely new piece on, order the CBR harness (32104-MJE-D00)

This is common enough, I would be comfortable making this statement to you.....(@0860silverado only)
If you drop $20 on the harness, and it DOES NOT fix your problem, I will paypal you the $20.

Easiest way to diagnose this is to do the following, lift box, remove seat back (5/6 bolts I think) Have the engine running, start wiggling the injector harnesses. It will die.
I have had 4 or 5 members PM me about this issue, it has always been a wiring overcrimp issue.

You might get lucky and be able to run for a bit, but when it starts to die, it likes to continue dying.
I really appreciate all your help (and your offer for reimbursement shows your confidence on this issue, but I could never accept that lol!) I found the P/N you listed on Amazon. So...the crimped pins slip in and lock into the plastic plug? How do I attach the bare wire end? Cut and solder to existing wires?
 
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I really appreciate all your help (and your offer for reimbursement shows your confidence on this issue, but I could never accept that lol!) I found the P/N you listed on Amazon. So...the crimped pins slip in and lock into the plastic plug? How do I attach the bare wire end? Cut and solder to existing wires?
Correct, crimp/heat shrink, or solder/heat shrink the other end.
I will see if I can take apart the spare connectors I have to show to replace the terminals. You may need to invest in a set of terminal tools to take it apart. Can be had for anywhere between $10-$100+
If you need to purchase terminal tools, I would suggest leaning towards the CBR harness, then simply cut and splice the entire connector into place.
 
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0860silverado

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Correct, crimp/heat shrink, or solder/heat shrink the other end.
I will see if I can take apart the spare connectors I have to show to replace the terminals. You may need to invest in a set of terminal tools to take it apart. Can be had for anywhere between $10-$100+
If you need to purchase terminal tools, I would suggest leaning towards the CBR harness, then simply cut and splice the entire connector into place.
Yeah...if I'm gonna have to cut and splice either way, I'm gonna get the CBR harness. $17.99 on Amazon. So if I understand, the P1K option that the dealership would do is replace the whole wiring harness which may include other electrical systems?
 
Neohio

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Yeah...if I'm gonna have to cut and splice either way, I'm gonna get the CBR harness. $17.99 on Amazon. So if I understand, the P1K option that the dealership would do is replace the whole wiring harness which may include other electrical systems?
At one point, the only option was replace the entire harness. That is when I started googling around for repair connectors, at the time of my repair, last Labor day ironically enough, there was no Honda repair pins available. I took to eBay and searched at used fuel injector harnesses to identify other Honda machines with the correct connector. So that is where I came up with the recommendation for the CBR harness. It sucks having to cut up brand new wiring, but I was stuck at the time, only had a few options to try and get running again.
 
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0860silverado

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At one point, the only option was replace the entire harness. That is when I started googling around for repair connectors, at the time of my repair, last Labor day ironically enough, there was no Honda repair pins available. I took to eBay and searched at used fuel injector harnesses to identify other Honda machines with the correct connector. So that is where I came up with the recommendation for the CBR harness. It sucks having to cut up brand new wiring, but I was stuck at the time, only had a few options to try and get running again.
So basically I'll be using the injector end plug with terminals installed into it? I assume the CBR plug is a direct fit to the P1K injector?
 
Neohio

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Correct, CBR harness actually has 4 connectors on it due to being a 4cyl bike.
You will receive the harness, strip off the elec tape, clip the wire where the connector exits the main harness and is tee'd off onto itself. them simply cut the old connector off your P1K harness, try to leave an inch or more tail to ensure nice clean wire to crimp or solder to.

If you want help walking thru it, I will see if I can hotspot my ipad and we can facetime or something to walk you thru it. But you do seem to be mechanical enough reading thru your posts.
 
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0860silverado

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Correct, CBR harness actually has 4 connectors on it due to being a 4cyl bike.
You will receive the harness, strip off the elec tape, clip the wire where the connector exits the main harness and is tee'd off onto itself. them simply cut the old connector off your P1K harness, try to leave an inch or more tail to ensure nice clean wire to crimp or solder to.

If you want help walking thru it, I will see if I can hotspot my ipad and we can facetime or something to walk you thru it. But you do seem to be mechanical enough reading thru your posts.
Oh yeah... I got this buddy! But I couldn't have gotten the short-cut parts without your help! Thanks again sir!
 
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0860silverado

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@0860silverado any update? Did you get fixed yet?
I sure did! The way I did it was to cut off the injector harness plug, right at the plug. I terminated the wires with a crimp-on insulated female spade plug on each one. I modified two crimp-on insulated male spades by inserting the end of a straightened paper clip into the crimp side and squeezed the terminal carefully so I could still pull out the paper clip. I then took these males and pushed them down onto the pins in the injector (they fit nice and snug the very first try!). So now I was left with two male insulated spade terminals firmly attached to the injector pins. Then I simply plugged the wires in! Works perfectly and I did it a few minutes with parts on hand. I would rather have used a Honda injector plug and just spliced the wires like you did (to keep the injector terminal port clean inside) but I needed the machine for work the next morning. I was gonna upload pics of the step-by-step but I can't figure out how to upload pics from a Motorola Moto-Z phone. But thanks again for your tips!
 
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