P1000 Wiring diagram

[ecsnapp]

Hey guys. Just trying to get a few opinions on if what I have drawn up is overkill or what you all think. Definitely not an electrician but already had a few switches wired up just adding a few more things like stinger relay and circuit breaker (if necessary). Want to control all switches minus my winch thru the fuse block as shown. Thanks

 

[Admin]

 

[nomyth99]

Nice job on the wiring schematic. I don't think it is over kill at all. Make a copy of it and put it with your Owners Manual. Update any changes you make when you do the actual wiring. Put your wire colors on the schematic as well. A couple of years from now, when you decide to add something else or if you have a problem, you will be glad to have the diagram.
I tried to look closely at your wiring. There are few things I don't understand, like the way you have the meters wired in and the VM relay? What is the purpose? Are you concerned that the way you have the volt meters wired in they will be on all the time? There are few other labels that I'm not sure about, but overall it looks really good.

 

[ecsnapp]

Nice job on the wiring schematic. I don't think it is over kill at all. Make a copy of it and put it with your Owners Manual. Update any changes you make when you do the actual wiring. Put your wire colors on the schematic as well. A couple of years from now, when you decide to add something else or if you have a problem, you will be glad to have the diagram.
I tried to look closely at your wiring. There are few things I don't understand, like the way you have the meters wired in and the VM relay? What is the purpose? Are you concerned that the way you have the volt meters wired in they will be on all the time? There are few other labels that I'm not sure about, but overall it looks really good.

The voltmeter drawing may not be correct. I did it off of memory but it’s actually to true battery isolator print. Now the only problem I am encountering is once I hook my stinger relay up I can not get power to my fuse block. Any advise?

 

[bumperm]

Is the stinger relay energizing when you turn on the key switch? You should be able to hear it or if you gently put your finger against it, feel the slight vibration of the armature closing. You can also troubleshoot it with a meter or test light. I didn't use a "Stinger" relay on mine, I had several 75 amp Bosch relays from another project, so I used one of those.

 

[nomyth99]

The stinger should have two small terminals at its base which energize the relay. One side goes to ground and the other side goes to a power source that comes on with the key. Finding access to that source is usually the problem. When I wired in my stinger I took an 22ga wire and ran it up through an empty slot in the bottom of the Honda fuse panel. ( See picture) I actually pulled two 22ga wires through the empty slot, the second one was for the key-on switch for my winch.) I purchased a package of mini-fuse taps at NAPA. These tiny brass taps are designed to fit tightly over one leg of the fuse. When you reinstall the fuse, into the panel, the tap has a mini male flat blade connector which accepts a crimp-on mini- flat blade connector. I hooked both wires to the aux fuse. When your done, you can tuck the wires down so the fuse cover will just fit back on the panel. On the two large terminals on the top of the stinger, hook one side to the positive terminal of your auxiliary battery and the other side to your auxiliary fuse panel. As "bumperm" suggested the best way to check and see if the stinger is working (after you get every thing connected) is to turn the key on and check and see if you have 12volts on both of the top terminals of the stinger.

 

[ecsnapp]

I have the key on harness from the store that I purchased when I installed my winch. I ran this to the stinger trying to get it to work. I metered it and only one side of the stinger gets 12 volts. Starting to think I have a bad stinger.

 

[nomyth99]

Since I'm not familiar with the harness your using, the easiest way to check your stinger, is to connect a couple of jumper wires directly from the closest battery to the small terminals at the base of the stinger. Polarity should not matter. Before you connect the jumpers, turn your key off, disconnect the wires from the top two large terminals, then put your meter on the lowest Ohms setting. On the Ohm setting, read across the two large top terminals. Depending on the type of meter you have, there should be no reading or no movement of the meters needle. After you hook up the jumpers, read across the top terminals again. If your stinger is working, you should get a reading of zero or 1 or 2 ohms. If that happens, the stinger is working and your problem is not the stinger.

 

[ecsnapp]

got the stinger to work last night. i had to hook one of the small terminals straight to 12 volt power. I went off of the aux battery and put it on a switch and it turns on and off now. Now im wondering how people who use the DPDT postion switch get the key on function. Im starting to think the key on harness that plugs into the cigarette lighter is not powerful enough to swithc the stinger relay.

 

[Hillbillytnt]

got the stinger to work last night. i had to hook one of the small terminals straight to 12 volt power. I went off of the aux battery and put it on a switch and it turns on and off now. Now im wondering how people who use the DPDT postion switch get the key on function. Im starting to think the key on harness that plugs into the cigarette lighter is not powerful enough to swithc the stinger relay.

I’m using the key on from the club store and have no problems. I ran it through a 7 pin on off on. Using this wiring set up.

 

[ecsnapp]

I’m using the key on from the club store and have no problems. I ran it through a 7 pin on off on. Using this wiring set up.

View attachment 290668

Ok. the 2nd battery is what is hooked to the stinger itself tho. i was thinking it was the key onharness. Appreciate the help.

 

[rb384997]

 

[Scoop]

Im starting to think the key on harness that plugs into the cigarette lighter is not powerful enough to swithc the stinger relay.

That is on a 15A circuit, which is far, far more than you need to energize the Stinger.

 

[Scoop]

@ecsnapp - If you're using the key-on harness from the HondaSXS.com store, it replaces this. They key on harness is fed from the back of the 12v socket on the dash, which is powered from the same fuse that this fuse tap uses.

 

[Scoop]

Nice pic, @rb384997

 

[Scoop]

Ok. the 2nd battery is what is hooked to the stinger itself tho. i was thinking it was the key onharness. Appreciate the help.

There are two large posts and two smaller posts on the relay.

Large posts: One goes to the positive post on your AUX battery, the other goes to the positive post on your fuse block
Small posts: One goes to ground, the other goes to your 12V power source (e.g., key-on harness, a toggle switch, etc.)
Of course, ground your fuse block.

Turning the key on or flipping your 12v switch energizes the relay, which connects the two larger posts - that's what allows power to flow from your AUX battery through the relay to your fuse block.

The two larger posts are interchangeable as are the two smaller posts.

 

[rb384997]

@ecsnapp - If you're using the key-on harness from the HondaSXS.com store, it replaces this. They key on harness is fed from the back of the 12v socket on the dash, which is powered from the same fuse that this fuse tap uses.
View attachment 313468

yeah i did not use the actual fuse tap because then you cant close the fuse box lid, i just used a blue snap lock tap and tapped into the white/blackline wire under the fuse box, much easier.... and will save you 20-30 bucks....

 

[rb384997]

some actual orientation pics... was fun project

 

[rb384997]

I used some heavy duty waterproof velco and left appropriate wire slack so I can add accessories, replace batteries and work on the buggy without any serious removal of anything, just undo vecro from the relays and fuse box and you can pull the wiring harness through to the switch panel for easy additions or working on the system...the air cover remains OEM ... basically the only real modification was tapping into the ACC fuse & of course modifying the dash panel to accommodate the new switch panel and cup holders .....

 

[rb384997]

My next addition is to wire in a double pole double throw switch AKA (on/off/on ) switch, reason for this is I want to be able to keep my radio on when I turn the ignition off... having this switch will allow me to run accessories on the second battery with ignition off, but also turn accessories off while ignition switch is on ... I plan to diagram this up soon .... a lot of guys are doing it and it makes sense to have...

 

[Scoop]

My next addition is to wire in a double pole double throw switch AKA (on/off/on ) switch, reason for this is I want to be able to keep my radio on when I turn the ignition off... having this switch will allow me to run accessories on the second battery with ignition off, but also turn accessories off while ignition switch is on ... I plan to diagram this up soon .... a lot of guys are doing it and it makes sense to have...

Picked mine up from the club store a couple months ago. Just have to get around to installing it!

AUX & Key-on Rocker Switch, DPDT, ON/OFF/ON.

DPDT ON/OFF/ON switch. OTR Carling V-Series This is a maintained ON/OFF/ON switch, not momentary. Two independently wired LEDs Rated 20A 12V No rear barriers between terminals. Insulated 1/4" female quick disconnect terminals can be used. This is a 10 terminal switch. O-Rings installed on the...

store.hondasxs.com