P1000 Yet Another Pioneer 1000 Dual Battery Install - video

[RobSparre]

Interesting! I may have done just that if I had really thought about it. I have a tribe of grandkids, so the key-on power may save a few headaches. If the diode solves the problem, I'll be set. You are certainly right about space being a premium. I had already decided to forego the relays I was planning on. Will probably still use one for the 52" light bar, but the smaller lights will run off the switch. The light bar says 300 watts, so should have a relay.

Agree - the light bar I got came with the relay and a 30 amp fuse, so I figure I should use it! For the other accessories, I just checked on the watt rating and divided by 12v to get the amperage. Anything over 15 amps I figure should have a relay, and anything 10-15 amps is a candidate for a relay and should have 12AWG wire if not using a relay. Anything less than 5 amps I didn't worry about and used 16AWG right to the switch panel.

 

[Admin]

 

[Wxbee]

I have been following this thread for a while, but I had a similar situation and this diode works great. I can use my Aux switch on the dash to power stuff without the motor on. Or I can have everything run off key-on power. Nothing back feeds

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[TexasTodd]

I may end up having to get a heavier duty one like that. I just ordered some that are 5 watts -half amp, I think (because I really didn't know what to get). Should know soon if that isn't large enough to do the job. It appears that one has an 80 amp rating.

 

[ACfixer]

I think I am going to use the stinger for a master accessory switch vs. using the key on method. A lighted master acc toggle will allow everything to work with the key off but reduce the likelihood of leaving something on draining the battery. Just my thinking anyway... If the added accessories drained the aux battery anyway, the isolator would prevent the main battery from being drained correct?

 

[Bugbldr]

Thanks for the video Rob. I have my parts collected but I'm worried about under wiring the connection from the Stinger to the accessory fuse box and the ground from the accessory fuse box to the negative bus bar. What gauge wire do you recommend for these two connections?

 

[Wxbee]

I think I am going to use the stinger for a master accessory switch vs. using the key on method. A lighted master acc toggle will allow everything to work with the key off but reduce the likelihood of leaving something on draining the battery. Just my thinking anyway... If the added accessories drained the aux battery anyway, the isolator would prevent the main battery from being drained correct?

I did both, I can turn on acc switch for light and winch. Acc switch connects to second batt and stinger. Then I also attached key on power to stinger with diode so you that when using acc power it doesn't back feed the unit and power the dash. So when I hop in for normal use everything is powered from key.

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[ACfixer]

^^^ Good idea.

 

[Sr56]

I am also working on this adding a second battery project on my P1K and appreciate all the post, videos and diagrams for this non-electrical handyman.

Where are you guys getting your switches? eBay, Amazon or another source? Is one brand better than another?

How about switch plates? I have seen the PBR and another vendor on eBay. Are there others or better ones available?

Thanks!


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[TripleB]

I am also working on this adding a second battery project on my P1K and appreciate all the post, videos and diagrams for this non-electrical handyman.

Where are you guys getting your switches? eBay, Amazon or another source? Is one brand better than another?

How about switch plates? I have seen the PBR and another vendor on eBay. Are there others or better ones available?

Thanks!


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These switches seem to last. Everyone seems to have issues with the Amazon and eBay specials.

OTRATTW - The standard in high quality custom rocker switches.

The standard in high quality custom rocker switches for all of your auto and marine applications

www.otrattw.net

Pbr or @mystic1219 for your switch panels.

 

[Sr56]

Thanks TripleB!


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[Worse1]

XTC also makes quality rocker switches. They are a little pricey but they are solid. Just google XTC rocker switches. Good luck!!

 

[CPcdxx]

4 weeks - finally get her done. More snow was on its way...
Learned a lot in this process, butchered a few wires, broke a few things.
@RobSparre, this thread (and others) were essential - thanks all who contributed.
I one day can dream to be as clean as @John79042.

Went a bit cheap and used the extra 6 awg wire from the SuperATV 4500 winch that was also installed. They were very generous with wire length.
Everything was cut to fit to the best of abilities, and crimped with new wire lugs.

I ended up going the bus route, both positive and negative bars.

Hooked up to the positive: winch, lead to second battery, source from the True, source for the volt meter.

Also went Stinger route to DPDT on/off/on Aux / Key On switch from the store here.
Added a 100A breaker in line as well before fuse bloc, because what the hell.

Used 14 awg for all hookups.

Fuse block schematic:

Left:
Blue - signal to relay for dual volt meter
Yellow - source for switch illumination pigtails
Red - winch solenoid switch power
Red - LED light bar relay

Right:
White - USB charger
Green - 12v cigar outlet
White - unused (future)
White - unused (future)
White - unused (future)


Tusk Subzero 72" plow


Please let me know if you see anything of concern with the job.

Google Photos album for higher resolution

 

[jeephd1903]

My stinger would not switch at 10 degrees. Had to warm it up.

 

[CPcdxx]

My stinger would not switch at 10 degrees. Had to warm it up.

...interesting.
We've had lows to -15*F, ill report if I experience the same.

 

[TripleB]

My stinger would not switch at 10 degrees. Had to warm it up.

I had one fail. It's was winter time but it's not that cold here. I would have to tap it with a screwdriver to make it activate. I did that for a couple of weeks and I bought a different type. No problems since.

 

[RobSparre]

4 weeks - finally get her done. More snow was on its way...
Learned a lot in this process, butchered a few wires, broke a few things.
@RobSparre, this thread (and others) were essential - thanks all who contributed.
I one day can dream to be as clean as @John79042.

Went a bit cheap and used the extra 6 awg wire from the SuperATV 4500 winch that was also installed. They were very generous with wire length.
Everything was cut to fit to the best of abilities, and crimped with new wire lugs.

I ended up going the bus route, both positive and negative bars.

Hooked up to the positive: winch, lead to second battery, source from the True, source for the volt meter.

Also went Stinger route to DPDT on/off/on Aux / Key On switch from the store here.
Added a 100A breaker in line as well before fuse bloc, because what the hell.

Used 14 awg for all hookups.

Fuse block schematic:

Left:
Blue - signal to relay for dual volt meter
Yellow - source for switch illumination pigtails
Red - winch solenoid switch power
Red - LED light bar relay

Right:
White - USB charger
Green - 12v cigar outlet
White - unused (future)
White - unused (future)
White - unused (future)


Tusk Subzero 72" plow


Please let me know if you see anything of concern with the job.

Google Photos album for higher resolution

View attachment 253850 View attachment 253851 View attachment 253852

Looks great!! This is so fun!

 

[Lady01]

4 weeks - finally get her done. More snow was on its way...
Learned a lot in this process, butchered a few wires, broke a few things.
@RobSparre, this thread (and others) were essential - thanks all who contributed.
I one day can dream to be as clean as @John79042.

Went a bit cheap and used the extra 6 awg wire from the SuperATV 4500 winch that was also installed. They were very generous with wire length.
Everything was cut to fit to the best of abilities, and crimped with new wire lugs.

I ended up going the bus route, both positive and negative bars.

Hooked up to the positive: winch, lead to second battery, source from the True, source for the volt meter.

Also went Stinger route to DPDT on/off/on Aux / Key On switch from the store here.
Added a 100A breaker in line as well before fuse bloc, because what the hell.

Used 14 awg for all hookups.

Fuse block schematic:

Left:
Blue - signal to relay for dual volt meter
Yellow - source for switch illumination pigtails
Red - winch solenoid switch power
Red - LED light bar relay

Right:
White - USB charger
Green - 12v cigar outlet
White - unused (future)
White - unused (future)
White - unused (future)


Tusk Subzero 72" plow


Please let me know if you see anything of concern with the job.

Google Photos album for higher resolution

View attachment 253850 View attachment 253851 View attachment 253852

nice work, I like that you used the soft loom to cover/protect wiring. looks so clean. I purchased mine at OReillys and at a good price.

 

[Lady01]

I had one fail. It's was winter time but it's not that cold here. I would have to tap it with a screwdriver to make it activate. I did that for a couple of weeks and I bought a different type. No problems since.

I have seen a number of posts regarding the Stinger not working so well in cold temps... what did you switch over to?

 

[TripleB]

I have seen a number of posts regarding the Stinger not working so well in cold temps... what did you switch over to?

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[CajunRedneck]

I have a question regarding the bus bars and relays. Is it possible to by pass them and just run a fuse box that has the neutral bar on it? I’m planning on getting the key on harness from the club store as well as the isolator. Then run the stinger straight to the fuse box. Is this an option or am I going to burn my sxs up?