P1000 Yet Another Pioneer 1000 Dual Battery Install - video

[Lady01]

I have a question regarding the bus bars and relays. Is it possible to by pass them and just run a fuse box that has the neutral bar on it? I’m planning on getting the key on harness from the club store as well as the isolator. Then run the stinger straight to the fuse box. Is this an option or am I going to burn my sxs up?

Yes, that is how I have mine. THe Buss Bar is a great idea but I use the ones already provided on the fuse panel. The isue is that you will run multiple gnd/pwr wires to to/from the fuse block rather than to the buss bar... gets a little full.

 

[Admin]

 

[TripleB]

I have a question regarding the bus bars and relays. Is it possible to by pass them and just run a fuse box that has the neutral bar on it? I’m planning on getting the key on harness from the club store as well as the isolator. Then run the stinger straight to the fuse box. Is this an option or am I going to burn my sxs up?

That's how I have mine wired up also. It's been working for 2 years now.

 

[ACfixer]

I have a question regarding the bus bars and relays. Is it possible to by pass them and just run a fuse box that has the neutral bar on it? I’m planning on getting the key on harness from the club store as well as the isolator. Then run the stinger straight to the fuse box. Is this an option or am I going to burn my sxs up?

I'm getting a fuse block with a built in pos+ and neg- buss and doing just that. Space is at a premium here!

 

[Prntckt]

I have a question regarding the bus bars and relays. Is it possible to by pass them and just run a fuse box that has the neutral bar on it? I’m planning on getting the key on harness from the club store as well as the isolator. Then run the stinger straight to the fuse box. Is this an option or am I going to burn my sxs up?

I installed a fuse block with a neutral buss in it and it worked great

 

[Lady01]

I installed a fuse block with a neutral buss in it and it worked greatView attachment 254466View attachment 254467

Nice work!

 

[Lady01]

Nice work!

great idea using those jack screws to elevate the accy fuse panel!

 

[Prntckt]

It made effective use of some wasted space at a relatively low cost.

 

[ACfixer]

Rather than start another thread I thought I'd just piggyback on Bob's here.

Okay, this was as far as I could really go today. I'm waiting for a turn/horn kit, a dash panel and rocker set, a winch, along with some lighting so when that all gets here Tuesday-ish I'll be back on it. I do have a covered 6 circuit fuse block with a pos+ buss that I can install in the meantime as well. I used the rear push pin to lock down the stinger.

I wasn't having much luck getting the fusebox cover on after using the Bussman add-a-wire doohickey so II think I'll look the the schematic and power the stinger another way or use a master switch on my dash panel.

 

[CajunRedneck]

I installed a fuse block with a neutral buss in it and it worked greatView attachment 254466View attachment 254467

The positive lead from the fuse back is going to a stinger? What is the next thing behind you stinger that I’m assuming splits to the battery and the isolator?

 

[ACfixer]

You don't need a buss bar IMO Cajun. With the stinger and a fuse block you'll have two switched bolt down terminals, one on the stinger and one at the fuse block. You also have the other three at the hot side of the stinger, the battery terminal, and the isolator if you don't want it switched. I just didn't see a need for a separate buss.

 

[Prntckt]

The positive lead from the fuse back is going to a stinger? What is the next thing behind you stinger that I’m assuming splits to the battery and the isolator?

Correct, The lead goes to a small buss that terminates wires from the battery under the seat, a wire from the isolator and a wire from the stinger. The separate busses are a convenience, not a necessity. They are nice IF you have the space. Fortunately I did.

I added some items that made my installation easier for me, and I found the space to do it by putting the second battery under the driver seat and using the second battery box space under the hood for a wiring panel. Definite not required, but I thought it made the installation easier in the long run. My installation had a few extra details that complicated the installation. I also wanted to make the wiring easily disconnected if I ever had to remove the front clip. My second battery is a full size 775CCA AGM battery mounted under the drivers seat.

Battery tray under driver seat

775 CCA AGM battery for aux, adding winch(es) next!

I ran a 1” flex conduit from under the hood to that location, and continued up the ROPS frame to an overhead console that I have my switch bank and stereo mounted in.

1" conduit from under driver seat to overhead console

Overhead console with switch bank, stereo, dome lights and aux power outlets

1" conduit routed from battery location to under the hood

I added the two busses as a convenient way to terminate the #6 AWG that I used for the high amperage cables. The terminal block provides easy connection to the overhead wiring console. I ran a few extra conductors for future additions

I made a termination panel that fits in the second battery bay tightly and is secured in place with two 1/4-20 threaded rods to the bottom of the second battery box enclosure. The control wiring from the overhead console is terminated on the terminal block at the back of the panel

I didnt like the multiple cables crimped together on the positive battery terminal, and adding another cable from the battery to isolator made it difficult to terminate all of them on the battery, so I separated them and terminated them on a separate buss.

I like how it turned out and there is unused wiring in place that allows for future changes and additions.

 

[Lady01]

Correct, The lead goes to a small buss that terminates wires from the battery under the seat, a wire from the isolator and a wire from the stinger. The separate busses are a convenience, not a necessity. They are nice IF you have the space. Fortunately I did.

I added some items that made my installation easier for me, and I found the space to do it by putting the second battery under the driver seat and using the second battery box space under the hood for a wiring panel. Definite not required, but I thought it made the installation easier in the long run. My installation had a few extra details that complicated the installation. I also wanted to make the wiring easily disconnected if I ever had to remove the front clip. My second battery is a full size 775CCA AGM battery mounted under the drivers seat.

View attachment 254590
Battery tray under driver seat
View attachment 254599
775 CCA AGM battery for aux, adding winch(es) next!

I ran a 1” flex conduit from under the hood to that location, and continued up the ROPS frame to an overhead console that I have my switch bank and stereo mounted in.
View attachment 254600
1" conduit from under driver seat to overhead console

View attachment 254601View attachment 254603
Overhead console with switch bank, stereo, dome lights and aux power outlets

View attachment 254664
1" conduit routed from battery location to under the hood

I added the two busses as a convenient way to terminate the #6 AWG that I used for the high amperage cables. The terminal block provides easy connection to the overhead wiring console. I ran a few extra conductors for future additions
View attachment 254588
I made a termination panel that fits in the second battery bay tightly and is secured in place with two 1/4-20 threaded rods to the bottom of the second battery box enclosure. The control wiring from the overhead console is terminated on the terminal block at the back of the panel

I didnt like the multiple cables crimped together on the positive battery terminal, and adding another cable from the battery to isolator made it difficult to terminate all of them on the battery, so I separated them and terminated them on a separate buss.

View attachment 254594

I like how it turned out and there is unused wiring in place that allows for future changes and additions.

View attachment 254584 View attachment 254587 View attachment 254593 View attachment 254595 View attachment 254596 View attachment 254597 View attachment 254598 View attachment 254602

Nice work, I have been thinking of adding a full size second battery under the seat area as well...you just inspired me!

 

[Prntckt]

Nice work, I have been thinking of adding a full size second battery under the seat area as well...you just inspired me!

I fastened the unistrut with 1-3/4” loop clamps from Mcmaster Carr to the frame rails under the seat compartment. The Stainless steel battery tray is from Amazon.

 

[ACfixer]

@Prntckt - Nice work and a lot of great ideas there. 👍

 

[Spoonbill]

Greetings all - this is my first post - from West Chester, PA. Just joined a few weeks ago. Love seeing everyone and reading all of the great community knowledge! Just got our 2020 P1K-5 used with only 34 miles on it! The first thing I wanted to do was add the dual battery system for accessories, and I read all the threads and watched all the YouTube videos I could find - but I was still left with some confusion and questions. So I decided to do my own video to help me understand it better. Best way to learn a subject is have to explain it to someone else!

Thanks to JoeyL here on the forum for his wiring diagrams from other posts. I used those as inspiration.

Here is the YouTube link.

I have also attached my wiring diagrams.
Update 12/20/2020 - I have updated several diagrams. They now show relay post #s for the dual voltmeter plus additional relay and switch connections on page 2.

Enjoy!
rob

Good morning, Rob. I tried to open each of these and got nothing but jibberish which looks like some encryption. I‘ll try again on my laptop, but might want to check these out

 

[ACfixer]

Good morning, Rob. I tried to open each of these and got nothing but jibberish which looks like some encryption. I‘ll try again on my laptop, but might want to check these out

The videos seem to be working from my desktop and my phone Spoonbill, I think it's something on your end. I can access them with and without the VPN running.

 

[ACfixer]

Any reason we can't remove one of those ridge/fin things on the air cleaner box folks?

 

[Wxbee]

I did, no trouble so far

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[Worse1]

I did, no trouble so far View attachment 254969

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I did the same as @Wxbee and shaved off the fins. I used some strong velcro tape to stick it on there just make sure you clean it with alcohol before sticking on the velcro. No problems either. I used a Dremel to make the cuts using the circular blade/accessory tool.

 

[Wxbee]

Wow! Nice job. Hindsight I would definitely chop more off like you did!

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