P1000 Yet Another Pioneer 1000 Dual Battery Install - video

[A29Adriver]

I have a number of electric bicycle batteries 24V, 36V, 48V so I am just going to carry a battery with me and set-up a DC to DC buck convertor with a plug for the battery (appropriate size wiring) to drop it to 12 volts and mount a volt/amp meter on the dash and when needed will plug in the bike battery for extra power. The cost of $300 for all the parts and tools to add the second battery is great enough to encourage me to remember the bicycle battery as I head out on a trip.

 

[Wxbee]

Anyone have a link for an appropriate diode for the accessory wire. Looking to feed the relay with key off but not backpower the accessory circuit? I saw a link about a week ago but didn't bookmark it.

This has worked great for me. Amazon

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk

 

[bldmtnrider]

This has worked great for me. Amazon View attachment 257247

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk

Thank you.

 

[ACfixer]

I have a number of electric bicycle batteries 24V, 36V, 48V so I am just going to carry a battery with me and set-up a DC to DC buck convertor with a plug for the battery (appropriate size wiring) to drop it to 12 volts and mount a volt/amp meter on the dash and when needed will plug in the bike battery for extra power. The cost of $300 for all the parts and tools to add the second battery is great enough to encourage me to remember the bicycle battery as I head out on a trip.

Seriously?

 

[A29Adriver]

Yep, seriously.

 

[ACfixer]

Yep, seriously.

I guess I don't understand the reasoning. How will you know when to plug this external battery in and where will you carry it?

The idea (as I understand it anyway) of having a separate and isolated battery is so the ancillary equipment we add won't overtax the alternator and stock battery during peak demand and therefore causing decreased clutch performance. If you just want extra battery power you can just wire a $55 battery parallel right? Just an isolator and a remote battery will only set you back $160, not $300 and you'd never have to screw with any of that stuff.

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To each their own, if it works for you then cool... just seems like more trouble than the solution most go with.

 

[Wellzy]

Second battery charges through the isolator, but can not drain the main battery as the isolator stops that. Second battery powers the fun stuff, main battery runs the machine only.

 

[ACfixer]

Second battery charges through the isolator, but4 can not drain the main battery as the isolator stops that. Second battery powers the fun stuff, main battery runs the machine only.

Exactly.

 

[A29Adriver]

Seriously?

I guess I don't understand the reasoning. How will you know when to plug this external battery in and where will you carry it?

The idea (as I understand it anyway) of having a separate and isolated battery is so the ancillary equipment we add won't overtax the alternator and stock battery during peak demand and therefore causing decreased clutch performance.

I have had quads for years and I am brand new to UTV's, I have never seen such a good explanation for having a second battery than the one that you present. Most of the reasoning for the second battery seems to be all of the electrical accessories that are added to the UTV drain the battery so that it might not start the UTV in a remote area or drain the battery to a point of damage to the battery. Therefore I would want a second battery available to start the UTV in case the primary battery fails. I have about $1500 worth of bicycle batteries, plus a few $100 in tools to check and weld 18650 batteries into just about any voltage configuration that you want. I plan on adding a number of accessories to my P520 (on order) but don't envision many electrical constant use items, a winch which is intermittent use and a heater during the winter, but one of my 48 V batteries dropped to 12V will run the fan on the heater for hours on end and still have plenty of power to start the UTV plus my bike batteries are 1/3 the weight of a Lead Acid Battery with 2-3 times the amount of amperage, the battery weighs about 6 pounds is 4" X 4" x 11" and will fit (I think under the seat in the storage pocket. I don't need a lot of add-on lights because 98% of my use will be in the daylight.

I will use the Pioneer to go to my out buildings and to plow my driveway, when I go out on a trail 5-8 times a year, I will be on forest service roads and I am surrounded by U.S forest service lands and there are VERY strict rules about getting off road in my area. So hopefully I won't be doing something that will overtax the alternator or battery that could lead to problems with the clutch.

 

[ACfixer]

Therefore I would want a second battery available to start the UTV in case the primary battery fails.

In that case, check this out... I have one and it KICKS butt, blows my mind how good it works. You could even install it onboard and use your cig lighter port to keep it charged. I have started my freaking airplane with one and now I keep one on the plane. Amazing. Got mine at Costco for about $65, but Amazon and other places have them too.

Amazon.com

 

[TripleB]

I have had quads for years and I am brand new to UTV's, I have never seen such a good explanation for having a second battery than the one that you present. Most of the reasoning for the second battery seems to be all of the electrical accessories that are added to the UTV drain the battery so that it might not start the UTV in a remote area or drain the battery to a point of damage to the battery. Therefore I would want a second battery available to start the UTV in case the primary battery fails. I have about $1500 worth of bicycle batteries, plus a few $100 in tools to check and weld 18650 batteries into just about any voltage configuration that you want. I plan on adding a number of accessories to my P520 (on order) but don't envision many electrical constant use items, a winch which is intermittent use and a heater during the winter, but one of my 48 V batteries dropped to 12V will run the fan on the heater for hours on end and still have plenty of power to start the UTV plus my bike batteries are 1/3 the weight of a Lead Acid Battery with 2-3 times the amount of amperage, the battery weighs about 6 pounds is 4" X 4" x 11" and will fit (I think under the seat in the storage pocket. I don't need a lot of add-on lights because 98% of my use will be in the daylight.

I will use the Pioneer to go to my out buildings and to plow my driveway, when I go out on a trail 5-8 times a year, I will be on forest service roads and I am surrounded by U.S forest service lands and there are VERY strict rules about getting off road in my area. So hopefully I won't be doing something that will overtax the alternator or battery that could lead to problems with the clutch.

This is in the Pioneer 1000 section. I don't think the 500s had the clutch issues due to low voltage that some have experienced with the 1000.

 

[ACfixer]

This is in the Pioneer 1000 section. I don't think the 500s had the clutch issues due to low voltage that some have experienced with the 1000.

Ahhhhh good catch! Yeah I am referring to the 1000 A29Adriver, I have no experience with the model you have on order, but I still think that lithium jump starter would be the cleanest solution to what you describe.

 

[TripleB]

Ahhhhh good catch! Yeah I am referring to the 1000 A29Adriver, I have no experience with the model you have on order, but I still think that lithium jump starter would be the cleanest solution to what you describe.

I just discovered those about 16 months ago. We have one in every vehicle we own now.

 

[A29Adriver]

If you open the Mighty Max portable battery charger you will probably find 4 x 38120 headway type lithium batteries with a BMS (Battery Management System). Lithium batteries as ACfixer points out are amazing, they are light, smaller and carry more energy than any other kind of batteries presently made, the 38120 are 3.2 volts so 4 in series gives almost exactly the voltage of a car battery, the 18650 batteries are 4.2 volts put lots of them together in series and parallel configurations and you can come up with all kinds of voltages and tremendous amounts of Amp/hours in a fairly small package. If you are into electric vehicles (bikes included) or solar energy you see all kinds of packages that people have come up with by putting lots (sometimes thousands of individual small batteries) to energize scooters, bikes, cars (Tesla included) and houses.

 

[RobSparre]

Wow, I can't believe how many awesome posts there are on this thread - this is so exciting! I apologize to those who asked some questions of me and I did not respond in a timely fashion. Couple of comments to random things as I remember:

1) The videos are on YouTube - for anyone who is having problems seeing or accessing the videos, not likely anything I can do. More likely a temporary issue on your end or YouTube is down. The wiring diagrams are attachments loaded here directly on the forum as PDF files. FYI I will be updating those diagrams soon with new items such as winch, contactor, heater, etc. as I have 3 more videos being worked on right now. (Full cab enclosure, heater, and winch.)

2) As for cutting the fins off the air cleaner for more convenient mounting space for the fuse block - absolutely I would do that. I was too chicken to do it when I first started cuz I assume there was a reason for the fins, but I think it would have been no issue to cut them off to mount the box.

3) There is certainly no absolute right way to achieve what we are all trying to do. Some ideas are better than mine - and I LOVE @Prntckt's setup - so awesome!

4) I said in the video that I would never need more than 6 circuits - well I'm up to 9 and no end in sight - LOL.

Carry on my friends!

 

[ACfixer]

Your video was/is a great inspiration and guide for spawning some of our own ideas Rob! 👍 These are fun machines to mod and trying to plan a way to not do it twice or three times (good luck!) is challenging. I think when I have everything done I am doing to make a wiring loom of my own to clean it up some.

 

[solrus]

Rob If I don't have true switch glow blue when I turn on ignition and started for 10 secs? What did I do wrong? I have my heater disconnected now and if I run a bit longer I see coolant leak from the heater disconnected hoses. I am planning to wire heater this weekend once I get core . Do you usually wait longer when the engine idle or does it come on right away?

 

[showme69]

I will answer each question in order.

Yes, I show a 3A fuse in line from the DPDT switch to the positive bus because that is likely 16 gauge wire and we don't want a high current spike coming to our fingertips. Note that the fuse should be placed as close to the bus/source as possible, not up at the switch, although you wouldn't know that from the drawing. Fuses are actually protecting the wire as the higher gauge is not meant to carry high current.

For the accessory bus, note that I did not actually do this setup in my rig. I just did the altered wiring diagram for you. (Happy to do it.) I may add the DPDT in the future, but currently do not need to have accessories on without the key on. In any case, you do not need an actual bus bar for this - you can just tie the 3 leads together. I would probably solder them and put a wire nut on. The thin high gauge wire does not stay together that great with just a wire nut. I wouldn't trust it on it's own. Or maybe solder and electrical tape. Or wire nut and electrical tape.

To wire the key-on power to the DPDT, you just take the lead from the key-on source directly to the switch. The video goes over several methods. I bought the key-on harness from the SxS club, but because I am an idiot I did not figure out how to actually reach the back of the cigarette lighter until I was shown how stupid I was and that I could have easily reached it once the switch plate hole was cut out. I ended up using a fuse tap, which I actually like as it was very simple and less than $7. See the video for details on that. Instead of running the key-on lead to the stinger, you are going to run it to the DPDT switch, and run the stinger to the accessory bus (or your wire nut trio).

My setup has the key-on power source going to the stinger, but yours is not.

I’m going to be working on this later this month and to tie the three leads together I’m going to try this pigtail connector that I had in my supplies from the past.

 

[Prntckt]

I’m going to be working on this later this month and to tie the three leads together I’m going to try this pigtail connector that I had in my supplies from the past.

View attachment 265373

Wago make some nice reliable connnectors too.

 

[colin215213]

Easy dual battery mod.