P1000 Yet Another Pioneer 1000 Dual Battery Install - video

[RobSparre]

Rob,
Yes I would think that would work just fine! A couple more questions as I am supposed to be taking delivery today on most of the components for this dual battery set up this week.
Are 12v Relays pretty standard? Wondering where you purchased those and the specifics on wiring through them, is it best practice to run all accessories through a relay? I assume 12ga wire is sufficient for all this wiring if I wanted to use one gage for all the wiring?

Hey G - 12ga is almost certainly fine for everything if you want to keep everything the same. As john mentioned in his reply it all depends on current draw, voltage, and length of run and he provided a link to a wire size calculator. I bought a 5 pack of relays for general use from Amzaon - here is the link.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017VDI0GY/?tag=sxsweb24-20

No need for a relay for everything. It just adds a lot of wiring and clutter if you don't need it. The relay's main job is to have a low current circuit (like at the switch) trigger a high current circuit. Most accessories don't need it, such as dome lights, LED rear lights, USB charger. Many accessories that need a relay come with the relay - so you probably don't even need to buy one.

I made a video for "10 Accessories" that include a number of additional lights and circuits showing which ones used relays, etc in case you want to check that out.

 

[Admin]

 

[TexasTodd]

Thanks for your great tutorial! I rigged mine up just like you illustrated, right down to the project panel and buss bars. Still not sure I needed the positive buss, but its there.

My question is this. I have to turn the key on to get the stinger activated and which activates the switch panel. Would it be a mistake to add a (fused) switch from the aux battery side of the isolator to the stinger that I could flip on when I wanted lights and activating the auxiliary side accessories, but didnt want to leave the key on? I have an extra switch in the panel and thought I could wire it to activate everything on the aux battery side without turning on the key. Let me know your thoughts. I couldnt think of a better place to wire the switch than the aux side of the isolator as it is the only constant 12 volt power on that side without wiring direct to aux battery and I already have 3 connections to it. (Winch, Isolator and Stinger)

 

[RobSparre]

Thanks for your great tutorial! I rigged mine up just like you illustrated, right down to the project panel and buss bars. Still not sure I needed the positive buss, but its there.

My question is this. I have to turn the key on to get the stinger activated and which activates the switch panel. Would it be a mistake to add a (fused) switch from the aux battery side of the isolator to the stinger that I could flip on when I wanted lights and activating the auxiliary side accessories, but didnt want to leave the key on? I have an extra switch in the panel and thought I could wire it to activate everything on the aux battery side without turning on the key. Let me know your thoughts. I couldnt think of a better place to wire the switch than the aux side of the isolator as it is the only constant 12 volt power on that side without wiring direct to aux battery and I already have 3 connections to it. (Winch, Isolator and Stinger)

Hey Todd - I have some wiring diagrams attached to the original post, one of which is for the "always on" configuration you are looking for. This is basically where you can have accessories on via the key, or a separate switch position to turn on accessories without the key on. The attachment you want says "on-off-on" in the file name.

See wiring attachments here:

P1000 - Yet Another Pioneer 1000 Dual Battery Install - video

Greetings all - this is my first post - from West Chester, PA. Just joined a few weeks ago. Love seeing everyone and reading all of the great community knowledge! Just got our 2020 P1K-5 used with only 34 miles on it! The first thing I wanted to do was add the dual battery system for...

hondasxs.com

 

[TexasTodd]

Okay, thanks. My positive buss is wired after the stinger, not with the isolator, so it looks like switching off the isolator will work the same way as your diagram to also activate the stinger. Key on or off wouldn't matter if I am looking at it right, Thanks!

 

[RobSparre]

Okay, thanks. My positive buss is wired after the stinger, not with the isolator, so it looks like switching off the isolator will work the same way as your diagram to also activate the stinger. Key on or off wouldn't matter if I am looking at it right, Thanks!

I believe you are correct, but to be certain, I would have to see a diagram of it.

 

[TexasTodd]

Well it works. It does, however, backfeed through the key-on fuse and turn on the dash lights. Probably not a big deal. I think I'll remove the fuse for the key on to the stinger and go with manual for now. Thanks again!

 

[TripleB]

Well it works. It does, however, backfeed through the key-on fuse and turn on the dash lights. Probably not a big deal. I think I'll remove the fuse for the key on to the stinger and go with manual for now. Thanks again!

It shouldn't backfeed at all. Something is hooked up wrong.

 

[TexasTodd]

I figured it was backfeeding through the fusebox double fuse gadget connector. Its connected to the stinger as well as the switch off the pos side of the isolator. It doesnt turn on anything other than the dash lights. No other regular key on sounds.

 

[RobSparre]

It shouldn't backfeed at all. Something is hooked up wrong.

Agreed TripleB - something is hooked up wrong. I would not ignore it.

 

[RobSparre]

I figured it was backfeeding through the fusebox double fuse gadget connector. Its connected to the stinger as well as the switch off the pos side of the isolator. It doesnt turn on anything other than the dash lights. No other regular key on sounds.

Like TripleB said - something is hooked up wrong. I'm not an electrical engineer, but how about making a wiring diagram and post it so we can check it out.

 

[TexasTodd]

I removed the lower fuse out of the double fuse adapter and the backfeed issue is gone. That has to be where its coming from.
My feeble attempt at a wiring diagram: Stinger on the left

 

[TexasTodd]

Would putting a diode inline solve the problem? Appears that it would. But I am no engineer either....

 

[Hondasxs]

Yes a diode would fix it.

 

[TexasTodd]

Yes a diode would fix it.

Thank you! I will give that a shot.

 

[Wellzy]

TexasTodd,

I was getting all of my parts lined up to do the dual battery install, and all I was needing after Christmas was the Stinger. Member Dirtstiffs-1000 told me "you don't need a Stinger". So, I installed my Aux battery, Battery Isolator and fuse box without the Stinger. By doing this, the Aux battery powers the fuse box all the time. Anything connected to the fuse panel will either have it's own power switch like an overhead stereo, or it will have a dash switch for on and off, like a small light bar or whip...whatever.

My main battery sends power to the input of the Isolator, out to the pos of the Aux battery, from the Aux battery out to the pos terminal of the fuse box. The fuse box neg goes out to the neg terminal of the Aux battery, and the Aux neg terminal is connected to the second factory ground cable to the frame. The neg ground of the Isolator goes to the neg of the Aux battery also grounding to the frame. My Battery Tender Jr. is connected to both terminals of the main battery and charges through the Isolator into both batteries.

My fuse box is completely key off power, but as long as I switch my accesories or they use their own power switch (stereo) they are off with a switch and can be turned on any time. It seems like putting in the Stinger, making the fuse box key on only is what some members are trying to override by wanting the accessories key off power. Then just lose the Stinger, right?

I'm at work and can't attach a photo, but I velcro'ed my fuse box on top of the Aux battery, it really turned out clean. I'm open to any suggestions or concerns.

UPDATE WITH PICS - SO IT HAPPENED

 

[Wellzy]

 

[TripleB]

TexasTodd,

I was getting all of my parts lined up to do the dual battery install, and all I was needing after Christmas was the Stinger. Member Dirtstiffs-1000 told me "you don't need a Stinger". So, I installed my Aux battery, Battery Isolator and fuse box without the Stinger. By doing this, the Aux battery powers the fuse box all the time. Anything connected to the fuse panel will either have it's own power switch like an overhead stereo, or it will have a dash switch for on and off, like a small light bar or whip...whatever.

My main battery sends power to the input of the Isolator, out to the pos of the Aux battery, from the Aux battery out to the pos terminal of the fuse box. The fuse box neg goes out to the neg terminal of the Aux battery, and the Aux neg terminal is connected to the second factory ground cable to the frame. The neg ground of the Isolator goes to the neg of the Aux battery also grounding to the frame. My Battery Tender Jr. is connected to both terminals of the main battery and charges through the Isolator into both batteries.

My fuse box is completely key off power, but as long as I switch my accesories or they use their own power switch (stereo) they are off with a switch and can be turned on any time. It seems like putting in the Stinger, making the fuse box key on only is what some members are trying to override by wanting the accessories key off power. Then just lose the Stinger, right?

I'm at work and can't attach a photo, but I velcro'ed my fuse box on top of the Aux battery, it really turned out clean. I'm open to any suggestions or concerns.

That's how my buddy did his. The only negative with that set up is, you have to make sure u turn off each accessory and the possibility of someone accidentally turning one of the switches on and draining the battery.

 

[Lady01]

Hey G - 12ga is almost certainly fine for everything if you want to keep everything the same. As john mentioned in his reply it all depends on current draw, voltage, and length of run and he provided a link to a wire size calculator. I bought a 5 pack of relays for general use from Amzaon - here is the link.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017VDI0GY/?tag=sxsweb24-20

No need for a relay for everything. It just adds a lot of wiring and clutter if you don't need it. The relay's main job is to have a low current circuit (like at the switch) trigger a high current circuit. Most accessories don't need it, such as dome lights, LED rear lights, USB charger. Many accessories that need a relay come with the relay - so you probably don't even need to buy one.

I made a video for "10 Accessories" that include a number of additional lights and circuits showing which ones used relays, etc in case you want to check that out.

So right Rob, I drew up a bunch of wiring schematics before I installed. I thought I would be clever and use relays for most loads. Once I got on the machine, space is a premium, and you will be surprised how much space wires actually take up, so back to my drawing board I cut out most relays as the switches can handle most loads. great advice!

 

[TexasTodd]

Interesting! I may have done just that if I had really thought about it. I have a tribe of grandkids, so the key-on power may save a few headaches. If the diode solves the problem, I'll be set. You are certainly right about space being a premium. I had already decided to forego the relays I was planning on. Will probably still use one for the 52" light bar, but the smaller lights will run off the switch. The light bar says 300 watts, so should have a relay.

 

[RobSparre]

So right Rob, I drew up a bunch of wiring schematics before I installed. I thought I would be clever and use relays for most loads. Once I got on the machine, space is a premium, and you will be surprised how much space wires actually take up, so back to my drawing board I cut out most relays as the switches can handle most loads. great advice!

LOL - yup - space quickly becomes a premium - and lots of relays and extra wires will chew it up, not to mention the extra chaos.